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#1
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Replacing the timing belt!
It's my first post! I'll be driving an SVX for the next few days since I blew my mustangs transmission up and my corvette's transmission, so until I get one fixed, I'll be paying a favor to my friend, who has an SVX. I told him I would go ahead and replace the timing belt and a few other things for him to get it back to running condition. My question is on the timing belt, what will I need to get clocked in? I assume of course both cams and the crank have hash marks to where to line them up to, is that correct? Is there any counter shafts or anything else I need to be concerned with? Anyone have some pictures or how-tos for this one?
let me know! And thanks for your input. |
#2
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And yes, I just realized I put this in the wrong forum.
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#3
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But I definately need some info still!
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#4
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Welcome to the site. Good luck with the repairs.
I moved it to the proper forum for you.
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. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19 |
#5
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I'm working on a complete "how-to" for the timing belt and water pump (which would be good to replace while you're down there). Its not quite done, but I can send you what I have. Send me a PM with your email, and I'll send it to you by email.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#6
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Until the howto is done try a little searching. It would also be a good idea to replace the seals and inspect/replace the belt idlers while in there.
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#7
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The belt idler is what went nuts, I'm replacing the idler and the belt, he didnt mention any problems with the water pump so I'm not going to worry about it. Do the cams/crank have hash marks to set them on the right tooth?
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#8
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Yep, engine case, the cam sprockets, the crank sprocket, and the belt all have alignment marks. The water pump begins to become a suspect item after 100k miles, esp if the cooling system hasn't been well maintained. The pump is right down there behind the timing belt, and its not that much more work to do the pump.
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Mychailo :: 2006 Silver Mitsubishi Evolution 9, E85, 34 psi peak, 425wtq/505whp DJ :: 1995 Laguna Blue SVX L AWD 5MT (sold) Visit my locker SVX Mods: ND iridium spark plugs, Impreza RS fpr, afr tuned to 13.2:1 using a custom MAF bypass, custom exhaust, WRX 5MT w/ STi RA 1st-4th gear & stock WRX 5th gear, Exedy 13 lb flywheel & Sport Clutch, STi Group N tranny & engine mounts, urethane spacers in rear subframe, rear diff mounts, and pitch stopper, SVX Sport Strut Springs (185f/150r), custom 19 mm rear swaybar, urethane swaybar mounts, Rota Torque 17x8", 225/45-17 Proxes 4 tires, Axxis Deluxe Plus organic brake pads. |
#9
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Don't forget that the water pump can sieze and jerk the bejeesus out of the belt system, causing immediate failure of all the idlers and tensioner. I've seen it happen and it ain't purty - a bunch o' ugly dollar signs.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#10
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Still no help at all honestly. The how-to is incomplete, its good though, it just dosent even get me to where I'm at. I need to know how you line the cams and crank up, and if theres anything special to do outside of a normal timing belt replacement.
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#11
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I answered my own question!
http://www.ryanmacdonald.com/car/howto/belt/belt.html there you go future timing belt searchers |
#12
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One of the easiest belts to replace. Covers off. Remove tensioner and belt. Align marks on cams to cover, crank to mark near TDC. Compress tensioner in vise and pin. Install tensioner, leaving bolts slightly loose. Remove idler below tensioner. Install belt. Marks on belt match cams and crank when installed correctly. When belt is installed you can now reinstall removed idler (tough to install belt without removing the idler.) A couple clothespins help to hold belt on cams. Lightly pry tensioner towards tensioner pulley and tighten bolts. Remove pin from tensioner. Engine should now start (no need to go crazy, just make sure it starts and runs for a couple secs), if it does, shut it off and re-check marks. If o.k. button it back up. Simple.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#13
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beav, thank you sir, excellent help, thats exactly what I wanted to know, how that tensioner piston worked.
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#14
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Quote:
That's the way I've always done it, not sure if it's necessary or not????
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Dave - 03 Baja - 92 SVX - 86 Brat - 08 OB 3.0 |
#15
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Just don't go crazy and think you need to exert superhuman force. Full compression in a 5" vice probably takes ~30 seconds. Just a steady pressure on the handle.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
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