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  #1  
Old 03-20-2007, 03:06 PM
MoodyBlue MoodyBlue is offline
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No Heat

Hi, my heating controls alone with clock stopped working. I did check the fuses ,unless there is a hidden one I'm not aware of. Any suggestions on what might be wrong ?? Thanks
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  #2  
Old 03-20-2007, 03:12 PM
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ShiuludeSVX ShiuludeSVX is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoodyBlue
Hi, my heating controls alone with clock stopped working. I did check the fuses ,unless there is a hidden one I'm not aware of. Any suggestions on what might be wrong ?? Thanks
Does the blower work at all?
Are there any lights on the Climate Control Panel?
Recent Stereo change?
Turn on the heat, if the blower is out, and you can feel some heat while the car is moving, then blower circuit.
If no heat, and blower works, then blockage to the heater core.
If no Climate Panel lights, then short behind the panel, or above your right foot.
Check ALL fuses.
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  #3  
Old 03-21-2007, 03:58 PM
MoodyBlue MoodyBlue is offline
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No Heat, Defrosters ETC.

Thanks for getting back. No the control panel does not light up at all (NO fan ,blower etc) doesn't seem to have any power to it at all. That why I asumed a fuse problem. Also notice that tha clock also no longer works. Didn't work on stereo but will pull out just to check if former owner added it but didn't cap wires properly. BUT just recently once you drive it appox. 6 miles or so the engine light comes on. Took to the garage 4 seperate times still the same.
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  #4  
Old 03-21-2007, 07:03 PM
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ShiuludeSVX ShiuludeSVX is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MoodyBlue
Thanks for getting back. No the control panel does not light up at all (NO fan ,blower etc) doesn't seem to have any power to it at all. That why I asumed a fuse problem. Also notice that tha clock also no longer works. Didn't work on stereo but will pull out just to check if former owner added it but didn't cap wires properly. BUT just recently once you drive it appox. 6 miles or so the engine light comes on. Took to the garage 4 seperate times still the same.
Sounds like maybe just bad Spaghetti behind the stereo.
Hopefully, it's not a short. Those can be a bear to find.
__________________
The Worm
_______________
June '91 Claret LSL #1733, Enkei RS-5's x 16", Original Paint, accompanied by Beautifully speckeled Front Bumper, Sony Audio Components, Small Car Shift Kit, "How to" Hood Lifts {Perfect}, "15 Minute Suspension Mod"
Motorsport Floor Mats. Perma-Cool External T. Filter, New Front Axels {1/2008}. "Classic Radiators" unit "$36 coil alternative" and Tranny rebuild at 287k 8/2012


'05 Infinity G35 Coupe.
No Mods, 33K Miles
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  #5  
Old 01-22-2012, 01:44 PM
Dubya-r-ex Dubya-r-ex is offline
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Re: No Heat

Bumping this. I'm having the same issue. The buttons are backlight the usual green but the clock is out and the buttons don't respond for the climate controls at all. It seems like this is somehow tied in with my mirror controls because those aren't working either. Any thoughts are greatly appreciated. It's cold as hell in Chicago lately.
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  #6  
Old 01-22-2012, 01:56 PM
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svxcess svxcess is offline
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Re: No Heat

Do the lights in your sun visors work? The very thin wires have a habit of breaking and causing all sorts of electrical problems. Seen it happen a lot.

See this post HERE

The post addresses the symptoms concerning the Climate Control, clock and external mirrors.


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JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
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In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



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R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

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2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
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Last edited by svxcess; 01-22-2012 at 02:05 PM.
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  #7  
Old 01-22-2012, 02:15 PM
Dubya-r-ex Dubya-r-ex is offline
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Re: No Heat

Awesome. Thank you. This sounds exactly like the problem I am having.

Any idea how long this little project takes? It seems pretty straight-forward.
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  #8  
Old 01-22-2012, 05:18 PM
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svxcess svxcess is offline
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Re: No Heat

Check that 20A fuse to see if it has blown. Don't replace it yet.

Unbolt the sunvisors and pull the wires gently to get at the connectors. Sometimes the wires break up high, right at the pivot point of the sun visor arm. You may have enough slack to attach another length of wire across the break. It all depends upon how high the break is and hoe much extra slack you have. In my son's pearlie, they were easily seen and I was lucky to be able to repair them without taking anything off.

I just twisted on another length of thin wire, and soldered it with one of those instant "cold heat" soldering guns. i used the liquid electrical tape and brushed on a couple of coats with a small brush. Once dry, I cut a slit in a small piece of foam weatherstrip and laid the connection inside for extra protection. Hooked up the connector and pushed everything back into place.


You may have enough room to just tape over the breaks to insulate them as a temporary measure until later. You won't have lights in your visors, but heat is more important.

Don't forget to replace the fuse.


If you can't see or get to the broken wires easily, use Nate's procedure.

Good luck.


.
__________________
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Subaru Ambassador

1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001

My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX .

.

Last edited by svxcess; 06-19-2012 at 09:15 PM.
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  #9  
Old 01-22-2012, 06:14 PM
Dubya-r-ex Dubya-r-ex is offline
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Re: No Heat

Well, I was able to get to the connectors but came across nothing that looked out of place or damaged. Unless there is a break somewhere between where the mirror arm mounts up and where it goes down the B pillar it seems like there is no issue. I tugged on the wire a bit so if that were the case it probably would have separated the wire more. Before I put everything back together I test ran the system and sure as **** everything started right up. All the wires appeared to be in good shape with no real deterioration and the fuse was all good so I'm thinking that one of the wires going into the connected had just wiggled loose. I'm not sure that would have caused my problems though.

Thanks guys. If it happens again I'll know right where to look.
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