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#16
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Open the door to start? That's a new one. What happens when you don't, does the starter just click or do nothing? Does the car have a factory or an aftermarket alarm? You may need to have the starter kill relay checked.
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#17
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No clicking, It just wont start! Ever since we installed that new alternator she is running like a champ!
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#18
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Sun Visors
the flopping of the sun visors breaks and shorts the wires sometimes.
my svx battery was dying when i left it parked over the weekend until i disconneced both sun visors. the wires looked just fine, maybe they are touching each other inside or something, anyway the battery stopped dying after i disconnected them. my dash lights still come on at stop lights and stop signs after the car warms up and the idle drops to 500 rpm. running the car with the climate control off and the vent on seems to have decreased the frequency of the drop to 500 rpm and engine stalling, but it still happens occasionally.
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DWAYN |
#19
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That's because your alternator is dying. Dave |
#20
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Well so far so good, its been a couple of weeks now since we put in the new alternator. The check engine light is still on....and I still have to open my door to start the car...
I haven't seen the dash lights come on once. I am thinking its my starter going out or something... |
#21
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Clarity
When you state 'dash lights' I'm assuming you are referring to the warning lights and not the dome, dash illumination, etc. lights as some seem to be doing. When the rectifier in the alternator fails it causes the warning lights to come on - a wiring SNAFU built-in by the EEs @ Subaru.
The visor wiring will cause a myriad of issues but I have yet to see it cause any issue with the warning lamps. The rectifier converts three phase AC voltage into DC voltage by using diodes. When one or more diodes fail the charging ability of the alternator is diminished - the more failed diodes, the less voltage it can produce. The diodes also prevent 'drain-back' from the battery to the alternator, so failed diodes cause the battery to die when the engine is off. Flickering or dimly lit warning lamps, especially at low rpm, are an indicator of usually just one diode having failed. This usually results in the alternator only being able to produce around 50 amps at high rpm vs. it's rated 90 amps. At idle that works out to around 4-9 amps, hardly enough to keep the engine management and fuel pump running let alone the blower, radiator fan, stop lights or a/c. Typically a single bad diode will cause a deficit situation to the tune of 15-20 amps at idle with the car in drive and the a/c on. I just rebuilt another one (search this site for instructions) a couple weeks ago. The prices actually went down a couple bucks since I did mine. Less than $50 for the rectifier and regulator, somewhere around $600-$700 for them at Subaru if I recall correctly. The truly adventurous can isolate individual diodes and replace them for about $8 each. The correct alternator @ NAPA is $242, the cheaper one is incorrect fit - at least the one they sent to my customer was.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) Last edited by Beav; 06-21-2005 at 01:29 PM. |
#22
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all the warning lights come on. But with this new alternator seems to be working fine.
At first we thought it was the security system causing it to do that, because if you left the security system on while driving it seemed to be doing that. So, we turned the security off....THEN we thought it was the CD player causing it because when we would listen to a CD it would sound like something electrical going through the car....(putting in a new CD player today ) no problems so far with the new alternator...there are times though that I get into my car and try to start it and nothing happens...no clicking or nothing...have to try to turn it over like 3-6 times for it to finally start. |
#23
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I suggest taking the car to a shop that specializes in electrical problems and having them diagnose your problem. Last edited by SEA Sleeper; 06-21-2005 at 06:14 PM. |
#24
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
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