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#1
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Replacing, and upgrading most suspension parts
Hi All,
I have a 92 Silver. I may be shipping it to the NE, and will have a daily 1/4 mi. trip back and forth up a VERY bumpy dirt road to access my rental house. I'm a new owner, and have zero mechanical abilities. I paid $5000 for it, and it runs nicely, and is very clean. I'm planning on a new timing belt, and all that goes with that job. I have 82,500 mi on it. One mechanic suggests waiting till 90,000, get the service and do the belt then,so it will be on schedule. By all indications, it should drive ok till then. So, back to the suspension question. I'm willing to invest a total of about $4000, { with belt, and service}to get it to a strong level mechanically. At this point, it already makes a number of rumbling and low volume popping sounds. I'm fussy about noises.One experienced mechanic said to just leave it alone until, and if it goes really bad. He said even if I put money into it, it may not result in real improvements. Any thoughts? Thanks, Steve |
#2
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The SVX has a non-interference engine. You could let the timing belt go until it snaps, and it would not damage the engine, just pop a new one on and your ready to go again.
Randomly throwing money at an SVX gets really expensive, very quickly. I would suggest if possible having someone who is very familiar with the car check it out for you. They'd be best suited to identify strange sounds. Regarding suspension, I'm not sure where you really want to go with it. You could go with something stiffer, which will make your bumpy ride bumpier. The stock suspension should hold up for some real abuse though, just check it out every once in a while, though you should notice pretty quickly if something actually does go wrong. Congrats on the new purchase, they're really great and comfortable cars.
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*No SVX at the moment...* 1987 Winnebago Elandan 35' 2001 Yamaha Roadstar 1600 2004 Ford Excursion Eddie Bauer, 6.0litre Power Stroke Diesel - Daily Driver. Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, scotch in one hand, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming HOOOOYA !!!!! |
#3
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If you figure 12,000 miles a year, you are NOT on schedule, you are 7.5 years overdue!! Time, heat, and mileage all wear out things like hoses, belts, gaskets, boots, etc. The sooner you get it to a good mechanic, the better. Jay is correct in that the 3.3 is a non-interference engine. If its making "popping sounds" have it checked out by someone who takes strange noises seriously! Tom
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#4
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Thanks a lot, Steve |
#5
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You could always do sway bar bushings and links and balljoints.They are relatively easy.New struts and mounts might help as well.Good luck.
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#6
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I believe you said 90,000. You are correct in that if the timing belt breaks, it will not damage the engine... The engine will stop, as will the power steering, and shortly after, the power brakes The "rumbling and popping" noises would be of concern to me. It could be very worn axles, bent driveshaft, a ring and pinion needing oil... I would check it out before it got expensive, or dangerous. I am actually trying to help.
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#7
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I'm kind of in the same spot with mine. Luckily mine is not steering related, it's just sway bar end links. My steering is tight, it just sounds like s**t. I don't know of too many SVX specialists on your side of the continent, but there has to be at least one. Ask Earl who keeps his herd healthy. As far as the timing belt goes I say fix it before it fails. It won't hurt the car if it fails but it might hurt your mental wellness. How much fun would it be to be 200 miles from home and stranded at the side of the road with a 4000 lbs paperweight.
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Hiram [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#8
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Thanks |
#9
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Point taken, and I most certainly realize that you are trying to help. Thanks much, Steve |
#10
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i do love the car. If I could figure out which Coast I'm going to live on, I could get to a good mechanic. |
#11
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You are on the coast with nice weather, tan chicks in string bikini's, no rust on cars, tan chicks in string bikini's, The Govenator, tan chicks in string bikini's, something, something... What was my point again???
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www.svxfiles.com The first SuperCharged SVX, the first 4.44 gears, the first equal length headers, the first phenolic spacers, the first Class Glass fiberglass hood, the first with 4, 4.44s in his driveway Fiberglass Hood thread My locker 4.44 Swap link |
#12
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The stock SVX suspension is pretty tough and will handle abuse pretty well. I beat the living snot out of mine on the snow track (think ruts, potholes, bumps, and the occasional not-quite-on-the-ground moment, all done more sideways than forwards with one or the other pedal on the floor) and its held up just fine. The only thing I've broken is the front sway bar end links. The left one has play in it so bad I'm a little worried, and it clunks and thumps like you wouldn't believe.
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Chris 92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping 2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold 2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl |
#13
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Checking the bushings for the front sway bar is extremely easy once you take the tire off of the car. You'll know almost immediately if the bushing is bad, as it will be torn up/hanging out of the bracket
Fairly simple to replace and you'll feel the difference. You might also want to check the sway bar end links, as they can loosen up where they bolt to the strut. Once loose, they will move up and down in the slotted hole in the strut bracket, making a clunking noise. -Bill
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Retired NASA Rocket Scientist Most famous NASA "Child" - OSIRIS-REx delivered samples from asteroid BENNU to Earth in Sept. 2023 Center Network Member #989 '92 Fully caged, 5 speed, waiting for its fully built EG33 '92 "Test Mule", 4:44 Auto, JDM 4:44 Rear Diff with Mech LSD, Tuned headers, Full one-off suspension '92(?) Laguna, 6 spd and other stuff (still at OT's place) My Locker |
#14
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to avoid confusion...the rumbling and popping noises are coming from your motor, or the suspension components?
also...when you do the timing belt..go ahead and replace the water pump, front seals, lower cam seals, and valve cover gaskets. If thye arent leaking yet, just because of their age, they are probably going to soon. that being said, you can hold off untill 90k miles to do this for the suspension...if your traveling rough roads, the stock suspension is probably just what youll need. Id go ahead and replace the sway bar bushings with polyurethane ones..not so much for any performance gains, but just because, once again, they are probably close to the end of their lifespan..and traveling rough roads could do them in. The whole set for front and rear can be had for roughly 35 bucks, and the install is easy enough to do in the driveway While the wheels are off, you should just shake things up a bit, see if you can track down any loose thinggs that need to be tightened, or replaced
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R.I.P Cool Signature. You're gone but not forgotten. I mean, sure, I kindof don't remember some of the finer details..but I remember you were funny, and at one point you said spaghetti in Dutch....but definantly not forgotten |
#15
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Steve |
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