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  #1  
Old 05-09-2006, 05:37 PM
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Hocrest Hocrest is offline
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Need help removing the flex plate bolts

I'm in the process of putting another engine and trans in my pearly. The engine went in yesterday. While under the car today, getting ready to install the trans, I noticed that the flexplate was cracked.

I figure no big deal, but the damn bolts are on so tight that I have rounded corners using a 6 point socket and cracked a socket using a breaker bar

I started soaking them down with PB Blaster this afternoon, I'll soak them again later tonight and try to get them loose again tomorrow. If the overnight soak doesn't work what is the next step to get these bastards out??? I still have the crane handy and the engine can come back out with little work.
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  #2  
Old 05-09-2006, 06:12 PM
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That sucks.

This is a good example to everyone else why we should never use thread locker on em.

I'd say heat em up, but I'm not sure what that would do to the seal.

I can't believe you rounded a 6 point! Was it a hardend?
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  #3  
Old 05-09-2006, 07:17 PM
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If I take a torch to them, I realize it would probably affect the rear main seal, would it hurt anything else??
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Old 05-09-2006, 08:56 PM
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Flywheel and torque plate bolts can be a real pain since the heads are so short. The problem with most sockets and box end wrenches is the angled area above the actual grip area. This only allows a small amount of contact with the head of the bolts. One way that may help you out is to go out and buy an individual impact socket, preferably 1/2" drive, and modify it like in this picture.

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Old 05-09-2006, 09:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hocrest
If I take a torch to them, I realize it would probably affect the rear main seal, would it hurt anything else??
Don't think it would harm the crank. Oil comes to mind. It would be absolout last resort, and I'd do it out of the car.

I wonder if myetballs' contact idea will do the trick with an impact socket. Assuming it is all of them, and not just one or two giving you a problem.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic
Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165

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  #6  
Old 05-09-2006, 09:45 PM
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I'll grind down a socket and try that first, I was noticing that the socket was having trouble staying "flat" against the nut.

Any other tips? Impact wrench or Breaker bar??

And yeah, it is all of them
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Old 05-09-2006, 09:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hocrest
And yeah, it is all of them
Well, that means there is more of a chance that they are just really tight and not worse (don't want to even say it)

I use an impact wrench to break my fly/flex bolts free.
Sometimes when I'm in a jam I turn the regulator a bit over spec (my impact gun sucks anyway). If that doesn't work, breaker bar and big pipe come out.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic
Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165

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  #8  
Old 05-10-2006, 05:39 AM
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The flat ended socket, and an impact wrench is the ticket...

If you have to heat them up with a torch, go ahead and replace the rear main while the flexplate is off (not a bad ideal even if you DON'T heat them up)

So Dave,are you about ready for the Dragon Alcyone Meet?
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  #9  
Old 05-10-2006, 06:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by huck369
So Dave,are you about ready for the Dragon Alcyone Meet?
If these eight bolts decide become agreeable, yeah I'll be ready
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  #10  
Old 05-10-2006, 08:33 AM
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Six down, Two to go

The bad news;
The last two have been rounded off using a 6 point impact socket

The good news;
They are opposite each other, so my plan is to cut the heads off, that will leave six bolts holding the flex plate on, three, hole, three, hole

Any thoughts???
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  #11  
Old 05-10-2006, 08:56 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedklix
That sucks.

This is a good example to everyone else why we should never use thread locker on em.

I'd say heat em up, but I'm not sure what that would do to the seal.

I can't believe you rounded a 6 point! Was it a hardend?
yes you should use thred locker on them you will be replacing the flywheel when the bolts come loose and crack it... it happend to me (i was gone and my dad blew up my tranny and the people that replaced it didn't use tread locker)... they pulled my tranny out twice

P.S. for your striped head bolt problem buy a snap on socket they have flank drive its amazing
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  #12  
Old 05-10-2006, 09:14 AM
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Do you have a welder?

If you do, weld a nut onto the stripped head (weld inside the hole in the nut)
Then it will give you something to get a socket on, plus the heat from welding the nut on, will aide in loosening the bolt.....
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  #13  
Old 05-10-2006, 09:19 AM
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I don't, but Ben does...

At this point it is sitting until Friday or Saturday, I have an appointment today, and plans tomorrow.
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  #14  
Old 05-12-2006, 10:01 AM
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WOOOOO ****ING HOOOOO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I got the last two out. I pulled the engine back out and used a grinder to turn the 14mm rounded heads into 13mm heads and took another rail on them with the impact wrench. I used my cheap impact wrench on them first to prevent twisting the heads off, it's around 140 ft/lbs and it didn't budge them. Then I took my heavy wrench that's rated for over 400 ft/lb and it struggled but pulled them loose.

It's a beautiful sunny day (the forecast was for rain and thunderstorms) and things are looking good.
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  #15  
Old 05-12-2006, 10:06 AM
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