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Old 04-11-2010, 09:51 PM
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Reading Prep; Help me clean aluminum wheels!

So I've had a set of aluminum wheels that I purchased from OT a while ago and I was wondering why last year I was unable to fully clean them.. I scrubbed and scrubbed but these "spots" just wouldn't come off!

Well I found out that with aluminum wheels, you need to clean them pretty regularly, even in the winter. Unfortunately I found out this little fact a little too late and that those "spots" are actually "pits" in the aluminum. It's where the salt and brake dust has "eaten" at the aluminum.

I'm in a bind here. I really want these "pits" to go away so I had my car detailed today by a guy that just kind of does it on the side and he told me to use some really fine sandpaper (I'm guessing between 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper) and also to use soapy water combined with the sandpaper to remove the pitting. Is that right?

I'm willing to try all sorts of remedies to get this to go away and most of the cleaning methods I've seen online suggest to "strip" the clear coat off and then to polish it again.. It sounds kind of permanent and scary to "strip" anything off of anything..

What do you think is the best method? What should I do here?
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1992 Pearl White LS-L "Ruslana" #4946 - 180k on body, 95k on engine.
Mods: ECU bead crush, 15 min mod, 20 min mod, drilled/slotted rotors & Axxis ceramic brakes, SS lines, 17" Evoke F1 wheels, XS-HF137 Sony Xplod speakers, 6000k HID's (lows & fogs), resistor mod, 1½" Sleek Spoiler mod, custom exhaust by svxfiles, '02 WRX aluminum racing radiator by svxfiles, Summit Racing 400# x 300# springs w/ Koni's by svxfiles, ClassGlass fiberglass hood /w scoop, Nevin's rear sway bar, '97 grille, phenolic spacers, custom LED interior lighting, custom paint.
†"War doesn't determine who is right, only who is left"†
Work to be done: Tinted windows, clear/LED tail lights, tailbar mod, "Power Mode" mod, Supertone horns, clear corners & headlight lenses, 2 pc splitters or custom bumper, Alcyone side skirts, TruSpeed Stage III SVX Intake, Hydra, 4.44 tranny swap, JDM auto folding side mirrors, engine rebuild, super charger, STi seats, bone leather interior /w SVX emblem, dash overhaul, SVX decals, paint (stock color). Total cost?: 22k At least it's going down..
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Old 04-12-2010, 06:11 AM
sowise sowise is offline
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Re: Reading Prep; Help me clean aluminum wheels!

Here is a how to I found that is pretty informative I edited it somewhat:

How to:Polish Aluminum Wheels
Submitted by DevilDriver on Mon, 2006-03-20 16:04 on www.s10forum.com
This how-to is a combination of two how-to's by s10cyncrvr and lowriderbowtie.
Edited by sowise for SVXWN.

I’ve been polishing wheels for a while now and have learned a lot by trying various methods. I’ve had several people ask me to write a how-to on keeping aluminum wheels looking good. Here is my procedure for polishing aftermarket aluminum wheels.
These are wheels with no-clear coat!!!!

I use Griots Products for almost all the detailing on my truck. They can be ordered from www.griotsgarage.com

1. I recommend pulling the wheels off the vehicle in order to properly clean and polish them. After you have the wheel off, the first thing you want to do is to remove anything you can from the wheel. This includes center caps, valve stem covers, etc.

Tip – Removing as many pieces as possible reduces the areas that polish can collect, resulting in a much cleaner finished product.

2. The next step is to wash the wheels. Your objective here is to get most of the loose dirt and brake dust off the wheel. I use regular car soap (Meguiar’s) and a lambskin cleaning mitt (Griots #10209). This will remove the dirt and prevent any major scratching of the wheel. After washing it, dry it off with a chamois or micro-fiber towel.

3. Next you’ll want to remove any dirt, tar, or grease that was left over from after washing it. I use wax and grease remover (paint prep) for this job. Put some on a soft rag and wipe down the whole wheel several times. Spend as much time as you need to in order to get the stubborn areas clean. This includes recesses in the backside, the joint where the face meets the hoop, and the lug nut and center cap holes.

Tip – Having a clean wheel is the most important part of the polishing process. Any dirt on the wheel will be mixed in with the polish and will scratch while you are polishing. Cleanliness is critical.

4. Next you’ll want to re-wash the wheel using the same methods you used in #2. This will allow any dirt that became dislodged with the wax and grease remover to be washed away. Dry the wheel off and inspect it. You should have a perfectly clean wheel. If you notice anything that could contaminate the polish, remove it now.

5. Polishing. I classify polishing into two categories:

- The first method (Stage 1) is the more aggressive way to polish. This is to be used on an oxidized wheel. This requires the use of a cloth applicator or a product like the Mothers Powerball. This method will remove the oxidation quickly and will leave you with a nice shine. But if brought into sunlight you’ll notice small micro-scratches on your wheel.

- The second method(Stage 2) of polishing is a less aggressive way. This requires the use of a latex glove as an applicator. This method will not remove oxidation. It is only meant to be used on an already shiny wheel. It will however remove the small micro-scratches that were left over from the first method. Performing this style of polishing will leave you with a perfectly clear and scratch free shine. Some people refer to it as mirrored.

Tip – Only polish on a cool wheel away from the sun. It makes the job much easier and provides superior results.

6. Stage 1 Polishing. I like to use the Mothers Powerball on a drill for my initial polishing. It does an excellent job and is much quicker then doing it by hand, which allows for more time for Stage 2 polishing. I use Mothers Billet Aluminum Polish for all the polishing on my wheels. Apply some polish to the wheel and to the Powerball and slowly start spreading the polish around at low speed. After a thin layer of polish is on the wheel you can increase the speed of the drill and use moderate pressure. It is important to keep the drill moving so that you end up with an even shine. Continue running the drill until the polish turns black. You can then remove it with a 100% Cotton Polishing Cloth (Griots #14600). I generally use 2 polish removal cloths. The first one I’ll wipe the majority of the polish off with and the second I’ll use to buff off any excess. This will keep the second cloth cleaner and will speed up the process.

Tip – Never let any of your cloths touch the ground. Any dirt they pick up on the ground will transfer onto your wheel when you’re removing the polish, resulting in scratching. Remember cleanliness!

Continue using the Powerball on all surfaces of the wheel. If there are spots that it will not reach, use a 100% Cotton Polishing Cloth or a Micro fiber Cloth to apply the polish in those areas. You’ll have to use some elbow grease in order to achieve the same shine as what the Powerball produces. Continue polishing until you have the shine you desire. The more times or longer you polish, the clearer the shine will be, until you get to the point where there is no oxidation left.

7. Stage 2 Polishing. So now you have a nice shiny looking wheel. Your wheels haven’t looked this great since they were new. You bolt them back on your truck, roll out of the garage, and BAM… the sun hits it and you have micro-scratches. It looks similar to a dark colored car that hasn’t been properly waxed. These were formed from the last polishing.

The way polish works is that there are large particles in there to remove oxidation quickly, but at the same time put very tiny scratches in the soft aluminum. As these particles remove the oxidation they break down into smaller particles whose job is to remove the tiny scratches the big particles put in. The problem lies in the applicator. Using a foam or cloth applicator allows the particles to be soaked up before they are finished doing their job. What you need is an applicator that is soft but does not soak anything up.

For this I use a Latex glove. Simply put one on your hand, dip your finger in polish and start applying the polish in small circles using moderate pressure. You’ll notice the polish turn from a white paste into a gray/black thinner paste into a black liquid. This takes time, don’t rush it. When it is a black liquid, it has broken down as far as it’ll go. Continue to rub the liquid on the wheel for about 30 seconds. Removal of the polish is the same as before. Use two cloths, the second one being your clean polishing cloth. Continue to do the whole wheel like this working small sections at a time. This procedure takes a lot of time and elbow grease, but it will be worth it.

When you think your finished roll the wheel back out in the sun and look for the micro scratches. They should be all gone and the wheel will have a smooth clear shine similar to that of a properly waxed car. If there are any small scratches left a second polishing may be needed.

8. The Details. Walking around car shows, I’ll see some great looking wheels. When I crouch down and take a good look though, I’ll see a lot of mistakes. Take the time to finish removing any excess polish. All the cracks, hard to reach areas, around the valve stem, around the center cap, and the lug nut holes are places I see a lot of left over polish. I like to take a very thin flat head screwdriver, wrap it in my polishing cloth, and run it in all the cracks. BE CAREFUL! You’ll want a thin cloth layer over the tip of the screwdriver so that it can reach further down in the cracks but you don’t want to poke through the cloth and scratch your wheel. Go slow, take your time, and you’ll eventually become comfortable with it.

When applying tire shine, apply it to an applicator and then use the applicator on the tire. Never spray it directly on the wheel. If any silicone gets on the wheel, it’ll smear and eventually ruin your perfect polish job. Another pet-peev of mine is wet-looking tires. Go to any Concours Event and you will lose points for having wet looking tires. Tire dressing should leave a tire an even satin black. For this I use Griots Vinyl & Rubber Dressing(Griots #11169). It contains no silicone, so you won’t get that build up that you do using other products and it leaves you with a black natural looking tire.
When cleaning your wheels after a fresh polish, I like to use a small California Duster. This will lift and remove the dirt and dust keeping the scraching to a minimum. Unfortunately, if a wheel isn’t sealed it will start to scratch as soon as you wipe it. Using the duster reduces this but only a Stage 2 Polish will restore the perfectly clear shine you once had.

9. The Finished Product. Step back and admire your work in different lighting. If you followed the steps properly you should have an excellent looking wheel. You took the time and hard work that most others don’t to improve the look of your truck. Congratulations!

In addition to that, there is a way you can polish your wheels with the aide of flour. The flour brings out a lot of the oxidization in the rim to keep them looking great.
Supplies:
-powerball
-mothers billet polish
-micro fiber polishing cloths
-poor boys wheel sealant
-mastercraft electric drill
-WHITE BREAD FLOUR
Some of my supplies layed out.

I give the wheel a wipe to get rid of dust, road debris, and whatever else i dont want on my wheel. Then I take my can of Billet, scoop some out with my fingers, and spread it over the entire wheel.

This is the flour step. The purpose of the flour is to cut deep and bring out all the oxidization that is in the pits of the wheel. I basically just throw the flour on top of the polish, and i use lots!!

Then I hit the wheel with my powerball and really work the flour and polish into the wheel. I polish it until the wheel is very warm to the touch and the polish starts to turn a dark, hazy color.

After the powerball action, I get my microfiber cloth out and buff away all the dry hazy polish. I always rip the tags off my cloths so i dont scratch my wheels more than they already are.

After a coat of sealant, you're done!
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:23 AM
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Freeman Freeman is offline
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Re: Reading Prep; Help me clean aluminum wheels!

That's very informative but it's for a wheel without clear coat. My wheels have just that.
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1992 Pearl White LS-L "Ruslana" #4946 - 180k on body, 95k on engine.
Mods: ECU bead crush, 15 min mod, 20 min mod, drilled/slotted rotors & Axxis ceramic brakes, SS lines, 17" Evoke F1 wheels, XS-HF137 Sony Xplod speakers, 6000k HID's (lows & fogs), resistor mod, 1½" Sleek Spoiler mod, custom exhaust by svxfiles, '02 WRX aluminum racing radiator by svxfiles, Summit Racing 400# x 300# springs w/ Koni's by svxfiles, ClassGlass fiberglass hood /w scoop, Nevin's rear sway bar, '97 grille, phenolic spacers, custom LED interior lighting, custom paint.
†"War doesn't determine who is right, only who is left"†
Work to be done: Tinted windows, clear/LED tail lights, tailbar mod, "Power Mode" mod, Supertone horns, clear corners & headlight lenses, 2 pc splitters or custom bumper, Alcyone side skirts, TruSpeed Stage III SVX Intake, Hydra, 4.44 tranny swap, JDM auto folding side mirrors, engine rebuild, super charger, STi seats, bone leather interior /w SVX emblem, dash overhaul, SVX decals, paint (stock color). Total cost?: 22k At least it's going down..
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:30 AM
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Re: Reading Prep; Help me clean aluminum wheels!

after cleaning/polishing, apply some Vaseline on them every so often to protect them (no i'm not crazy - this was in the owner's manual for my old Porsche on how to care for the factory aluminum wheels.) it leaves kind of a "satin" look to the aluminum.

if you prefer a shinier look, Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish can be used to make them look like mirrors.
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Old 04-12-2010, 08:55 AM
sowise sowise is offline
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Re: Reading Prep; Help me clean aluminum wheels!

Ah the clear coat makes it a little more difficult especially if your deposits are through the clear coating. From what I have read treating clear coated wheels should be done similar to treating a paint job. You can wet sand to take off very small imperfections but you will be actually sanding off the clear or cutting down its layers. Then you will need to polish it. If it is hard water spots and stains some say you can use vinegar. Also some of the chemicals in spray bottles will say for clear coated wheels but not sure any of that will help you. Lastly you could have them proffessionally stripped buffed and recoated but may be a bit more $$ than you want to spend.
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Old 04-12-2010, 10:05 AM
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Re: Reading Prep; Help me clean aluminum wheels!

Thanks.. Well it cant hurt to try the cheaper one first and then if I muck it up, have a professional fix it, right?
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1992 Pearl White LS-L "Ruslana" #4946 - 180k on body, 95k on engine.
Mods: ECU bead crush, 15 min mod, 20 min mod, drilled/slotted rotors & Axxis ceramic brakes, SS lines, 17" Evoke F1 wheels, XS-HF137 Sony Xplod speakers, 6000k HID's (lows & fogs), resistor mod, 1½" Sleek Spoiler mod, custom exhaust by svxfiles, '02 WRX aluminum racing radiator by svxfiles, Summit Racing 400# x 300# springs w/ Koni's by svxfiles, ClassGlass fiberglass hood /w scoop, Nevin's rear sway bar, '97 grille, phenolic spacers, custom LED interior lighting, custom paint.
†"War doesn't determine who is right, only who is left"†
Work to be done: Tinted windows, clear/LED tail lights, tailbar mod, "Power Mode" mod, Supertone horns, clear corners & headlight lenses, 2 pc splitters or custom bumper, Alcyone side skirts, TruSpeed Stage III SVX Intake, Hydra, 4.44 tranny swap, JDM auto folding side mirrors, engine rebuild, super charger, STi seats, bone leather interior /w SVX emblem, dash overhaul, SVX decals, paint (stock color). Total cost?: 22k At least it's going down..
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Old 04-12-2010, 04:54 PM
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Re: Reading Prep; Help me clean aluminum wheels!

Some drive-thru car washes have hyrdochloric acid wheel cleaner that is applied by an employee and rinsed off immediately. This stuff is amazing for wheels with damaged clearcoat if you have one in your area it's worth a shot.
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Old 04-13-2010, 06:19 PM
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Re: Reading Prep; Help me clean aluminum wheels!

This is as good a place to add this.

While not specifically directed at polishing aluminum wheels, it is simple information on polishing small parts, either aluminum or stainless steel on a buffing wheel.

The same principles apply to the Dremel... click HERE


.
Attached Files
File Type: doc BUFFING.doc (27.5 KB, 119 views)
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