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  #16  
Old 02-18-2006, 05:32 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Speed sensor.

The Aussie has an inductive pick up for both sensors, in side the box.

It appears that the JDM has a Hall Effect sensor for the No.2, and an inductive pick up for No.1.
This is probably due to not being able to fit an inductive pick up in the front diff. The inductive has to rotate a magnet, with a winding beside it. The Hall Effect spins a shutter wheel, with the chip in the center of it.

The output is different, the inductive is a AC signal, of at least 1V p/p, the Hall is an 5V square wave. The outputs may be compatible, if the TCU uses a Smitt Trigger input, it would still register the pulses, regardless of one being zero crossing, and zero to 5V.

The other differences are,
A. that the Hall needs a 5V feed to it, that the Aussie does not.
B. that the output of the JDM/US is at road speed, so it can be a true speedo feed. The Aussie has the final drive ratios between it and the road, so it has to be divided by the final drive ratio before feeding the speedo.

As you suggest The White output wire could be feed to the speedo, but it also needs to go to the TCU so it can see the difference in front/rear speed sensor outputs, to operate the Limited slip clutch. Whether the TCU can just handle the two different signals, the No.2 at road speed and the No.1 at tail shaft speed, as base, and then look at variation to work the LSC, I don't know.

I suppose it would be a start to do this and see the effects, the other way would be to fit the Aussie No.2 inductive pick up to the JDM box, and leave every thing the same.

Harvey.
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  #17  
Old 02-19-2006, 04:39 AM
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Harvey, can you walk me thorugh what needs to be done to put the aussie no.2 sensor into my jdm box??? Im not stupid when it comes to these things but i dont know what im looking at, so if you could give a little oreintation to your discription i would apreciate it.

Cheers,
Jake
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  #18  
Old 02-19-2006, 07:52 AM
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b3lha b3lha is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oab_au
The Aussie has an inductive pick up for both sensors, in side the box.

It appears that the JDM has a Hall Effect sensor for the No.2, and an inductive pick up for No.1.
This is probably due to not being able to fit an inductive pick up in the front diff. The inductive has to rotate a magnet, with a winding beside it. The Hall Effect spins a shutter wheel, with the chip in the center of it.

The output is different, the inductive is a AC signal, of at least 1V p/p, the Hall is an 5V square wave. The outputs may be compatible, if the TCU uses a Smitt Trigger input, it would still register the pulses, regardless of one being zero crossing, and zero to 5V.

The other differences are,
A. that the Hall needs a 5V feed to it, that the Aussie does not.
B. that the output of the JDM/US is at road speed, so it can be a true speedo feed. The Aussie has the final drive ratios between it and the road, so it has to be divided by the final drive ratio before feeding the speedo.
Great. Now we know.
Quote:
As you suggest The White output wire could be feed to the speedo, but it also needs to go to the TCU so it can see the difference in front/rear speed sensor outputs, to operate the Limited slip clutch. Whether the TCU can just handle the two different signals, the No.2 at road speed and the No.1 at tail shaft speed, as base, and then look at variation to work the LSC, I don't know.
I'm not suggesting connecting a white wire (inductive) feed to the speedo. Sorry if I'm not explaining this very well.

If you look at the diagrams, there is no white feed to pin a17 of the TCU on JDM cars. I checked this on my own cars. The Yellow/Red feed goes straight to pin a11. I think that pin a11 is the signal that the TCU looks at to measure the wheel speeds and control the clutch.

I'm convinced that the TCU does not use the inductive signal at all. It goes into pin a17, gets converted to a hall-type signal then comes out on pin c6. Then that hall-type signal goes back into the TCU on pin a11 just like on a JDM car.

The wiring changes look pretty straightforward to me. Just use the existing white wire to carry the signal from the diff sensor to the TCU. Connect Power, Ground and White to the diff sensor. Then snip two wires are the TCU and solder them together.

Quote:
I suppose it would be a start to do this and see the effects, the other way would be to fit the Aussie No.2 inductive pick up to the JDM box, and leave every thing the same.
I think that Joe did something similar to this. He used the innards from a new UK gearbox to repair his broken JDM one. I guess the choice comes down to whether you are more comfortable splicing wires or building transmissions.

Phil.
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Last edited by b3lha; 02-19-2006 at 08:01 AM.
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  #19  
Old 02-19-2006, 03:45 PM
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ok wire splice it is, Harvey give me a confidence vote that this will work?
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  #20  
Old 02-19-2006, 04:20 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Speed sensor difference.

I think the problem is going to be, the difference number of pulses that the TCU is going to get, if we splice the wiring. The Aussie TCU receives both sensor pulses at gear box speed which is 3.7 times faster than wheel speed.

The JDM/US No.2 sensors pulses are at wheel speed, and the No.1 is at gear box speed. I feel that this may have the Aussie TCU seeing this difference as wheel spin and apply the Limited Slip clutch.

I think it would be best to fit the Aussie No.2 speed sensor into the JDM box. It does not look that difficulty. This is how it is placed in the box.

It has been bolted in position to read the pulses, as the parking gear rotates. You can see it here.

I don't think they would have changed anything to fit it there, other than mount it to an excising bolt, or may have drilled a new hole.

I would pull the extension housing off both boxes, remove the No.2 sensor along with the wiring loom, that runs through the box and fit it into the JDM box. This will have the TCU reading the pulses as normal.

If there is no bolt hole,in the JDM box to fit the pick-up to, you would have to measure the gap between the pick-up and the parking gear teeth, and mount the pick-up at roughly, the same distance.

Harvey.
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  #21  
Old 02-19-2006, 08:42 PM
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some pics for ye all to gander

Ok i found what we are talking about.

JDM Box


Aussie Box


Notice the missing two cables on the plug on the JDM box, is this the no.2 speed sensor wires??



How do i run the speed sensor wires through the side loom?? will drilling a small whole running the wires and silicone the whole up work?? Also how do i get this plug out??
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Last edited by -JJ-; 02-19-2006 at 08:44 PM.
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  #22  
Old 02-20-2006, 02:53 PM
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A message to Harvey

Sorry for the intrusion, but Harv pls empty you INBOX
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  #23  
Old 02-20-2006, 04:26 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilverSpear
Sorry for the intrusion, but Harv pls empty you INBOX
OK ok done the house work.

Harvey.
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  #24  
Old 02-20-2006, 06:05 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Ah, I can see it all.

Good pics Jake. The JDM box has the mount holes there for the sensor. The wiring is hard to see, but it looks like the internal wiring plugs into the back of the main loom where it comes through the side of the box.

I was thinking it would be ok to just change the Aussie loom to the JDM box, but I see it that the wires that go through the side of the box come out above the valve body, so it may not be that easy, to do that.

The plug on the JDM is the same as the Aussie, just lacking the No.2 sensor wires. So there is the option of drilling a hole somewhere to bring them out, and fitting them to the JDM plug.

It would be worth dropping the pan off the Aussie box to see if the loom can be removed and changed over.

Harvey.
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  #25  
Old 02-23-2006, 01:34 AM
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Ok i will check the aussie loom tonight, if it wont work, with what do i seal the whole i drill?????????????

Also i swapped the gear selecter sensor and loom over, the wires are different colours does this matter or should it all work the same??
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  #26  
Old 02-24-2006, 05:07 AM
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I still need to know about the gear selecor loom from the above question

and here is what i've done about the speed sensor :

ran the wires throught he cork sump gasket,

and grafted wire onto the cars loom, ready to be conected to the speed sensor
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  #27  
Old 03-16-2006, 05:11 AM
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Talking Im back on the road baby

Connected everything up today.....finaly

And..... IT all works... horay

I have just got home from a test run, the car is running well, i forgot how well it sticks to the road , Tomorrow i have to pulll the "cheak engine" light error codes to see whats up there, other than that no hitches as yet

I would like to say a big thankyou to all who gave their time and knolege to help me, cheers!!!!

regards,
Jake
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  #28  
Old 03-16-2006, 05:36 AM
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Thumbs up

Nice one Jake. Glad you got the problem sorted!
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  #29  
Old 03-16-2006, 02:57 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Good to hear Jake, nothing like sucess that you have achived yourself.

Did you fit the engine too, or just the box for now?

Harvey.
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  #30  
Old 03-16-2006, 04:31 PM
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Just the box for now, Uni is in full swing again, and i dont have time to do it during the semester, also i ran out of money hehe, there are some things i want to do to the engine first, then she can be put in
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