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#16
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Re: The straight scoop....
So it was a caliper bolt! Still, I wonder how much further it can be tightened before stripping? That would definitely be a case of the cure being worse than the disease.
KuoH Quote:
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#17
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If the noise goes away with very light braking, go for it now.
Your fingers won't have time to get numb! Don't remove the wheel - just crank it to the appropriate side, reach behind it with the right socket, and give it a LOT of torque. |
#18
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Just loosened that bolt on the other side, and got exactly the same noise.
Tightened it - noise was gone. I'm a very happy camper. |
#19
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Re: *S*O*L*V*E*D* -- the mysterious front end noise!!!
Quote:
I am going to look on E-bay and try to find one. Anything less than $1,000,000.00 is a bargain. Matt
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Mattski 97 LSi Ebony Pearl 130k Midlife Crisis 93 Legacy Wagon 180k Training Wheels 98 Outback 180k 98 Dodge Durango 120k Ski Bus A multitude of skis to feed my need to go faster, faster until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death. |
#20
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Re: The straight scoop....
Henry,
Which bolt are you referring to again? I don't seem to find anything that needs tightening on the pivot (top) bolt, just the bottom bolt can be tightened. Or am I missing something? VK Quote:
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#21
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Quote:
Anyway, would this cause a vibration when braking? I guess I'll find out when I do my front pads. Assuming they'll get here some time this year.
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Out for good. Last edited by DavieGravy; 03-26-2003 at 01:12 AM. |
#22
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Re: Re: The straight scoop....
There are also two bolts that hold the entire caliper assembly on the car. These are different from the bolt on the bottom slide.
KuoH Quote:
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#23
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So it's not the bolt on the caliper or the pivot bolt, but the two behind the "dust shield"?
VK |
#24
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That would be my guess since if those bolts are loose, the entire caliper assembly would move slightly.
KuoH |
#25
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Which bolt is it?
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#26
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Re: The straight scoop....
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- Rob |
#27
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No you didn't, it isn't a bolt and thus doesn't have a head. There is one bolt (#6) that holds the caliper (#1) in place and two bolts (#20) that hold the caliper support (#4) to the strut. Now the guide pin (#5), or the "pivot bolt", does appear to thread into the support bracket and I suppose it could be loose and allow the caliper to move and make noise, but I wouldn't think that it would just loosen by itself during normal use. I would check the support bolts (#20), if you've ever had the rotors changed, as those would've been loosened. Click on the link below for a diagram with the part numbers referenced above.
http://www.subaruparts.com/diag/?mod...category=262-A However having said this, I know for a fact that nothing in my brake system is causing the "clunking" over bumps in my front suspension, because I just overhauled both front calipers and made sure all the bolts were as tight as possible without stripping the threads. KuoH |
#28
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Ah. Makes sense now. Those bolts I tight, but I'll wrench on em some more.
- Rob |
#29
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Ah. Makes sense now. Those bolts I tight, but I'll wrench on em some more.
- Rob |
#30
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Holy Cats! IT WORKED! WOHOOO!!! I"M ECSTATIC BABY! YEAAAHHHHHH my car is SOOO FREAKING QUIET! RAH! NO more rattly brakes, no more sounding like hte SVX is going to fall apart over bumps.
Well, here's the thing... I did two things and I'm not sure what solved the problem. I wrenched on those two caliper bolts (that hold it to the dust shield thing), and yes, one of them was able to be tightened almost 3/4 of a turn. The other one just moved a little bit. I also applied anti squeal compound to the backing plates of my brake pads.... so, together, it has almost SOLVED any noise in the cabin. The car FEELS a lot more substantial as well. The only down side is that I only had time to do the front driver's side wheel, so there's still a tiny bit of noise left to be taken care of next weekend. AWESOME THOUGH! WOHOOO!!! You're hearing from one happy SVX owner. EVERYONE TIGHTEN YOUR BOLTS! GET SOME COMPOUND! IT WORKS! - Rob |
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