Longer cranking before start

[SoCal LS-L]

For some reason, every time I go to start my car, it takes longer and longer to kick over. This started this morning when I went out to head to work. On each consecutive start today, it took a little longer each time, the last time took about 6 seconds of cranking before it kicked over.

Is there an easy solution to this?

[Manarius]

I found that doing the ignition relay mod greatly decreased the amount of cranking my car did at startup.

[immortal_suby]

Is the rate of cranking still fast or slower each time?

[SoCal LS-L]

Oddly enough it cranks just fine, just longer and longer.

NOW its pretty much just stopped doing it at all, and does it slightly, very intermittently, so thats good. My only codes are my ol friend the 56 EGR, and my 37 left O2 sensor.

I do have a problem with the idle, as it warms up it will go into a loping thing at about half-warm, where the RPMs go up and down ranging about 300 RPM, then it will steady out and idle low, around 300-400 RPM. Im planning on cleaning the BACV when I remove the intake manifold to clear my EGR passages..

[trophy956]

hi you say you have trouble with code 56 ,this is a egr performance code ,when egr opens it lowers manifold presure with the computer sees
have you test the BPT ?you say you are cleaning the tube s ,if you push on the egr does the car stumble? the other code 37 does any one ever test the power supply ,another person makes mention of the main relay the brown main realy which can really be a pain because its a single throw double pole .also pin 3 of this relay supplies power to egr solenoid and L/s o2 sensor
cleaning or replacing a air control valve is a good start for both your idle and long crank because if its stuck open it can make it hard to start
i hope some of this helps

[trophy956]

hi you say you have trouble with code 56 ,this is a egr performance code ,when egr opens it lowers manifold presure with the computer sees
have you test the BPT ?you say you are cleaning the tube s ,if you push on the egr does the car stumble? the other code 37 does any one ever test the power supply ,another person makes mention of the main relay the brown main realy which can really be a pain because its a single throw double pole .also pin 3 of this relay supplies power to egr solenoid and L/s o2 sensor
cleaning or replacing a air control valve is a good start for both your idle and long crank because if its stuck open it can make it hard to start
i hope some of this helps
charlie

[SoCal LS-L]

So far the EGR has not had any driveability issue, the passage into my intake is clogged so it would make no difference as theres no flow.

This problem is extremely intermittent, it only did it once today when I had it inside the shop, and every other time it fired right up as normal, including first thing this morning. When i had it in the bay it took about 4 seconds to kick over. Weird.

Im wondering if the snap-on scanner we have can connect to the select monitor harness and give me some real-time info.

[Subix]

So mine has been doing this lately and I thought it may have something to do with my alternator but I pulled the codes and I'm getting code 12... which says starter switch or circuit. So this is the relay everyone is talking about replacing? I wonder if it's really that and just not really a bad alternator or maybe both.

[SoCal LS-L]

If your alternator field collapses while you are driving then it will kick on your battery light, or you will otherwise have a slowww crank or just a fast clicking when u turn the key, since driving with the alternator otherwise not charging will tax the battery until its dead.

Id refer to the thread "No more click click start only start" and see what the final solution there was for your particular problem.