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#1
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Aircon code 15 - refrigerant temp sensor
My aircon isn't working well - it's not really pumping out any cold air - there is clearly something wrong. The self-diagnosis comes up with a code 15 suggesting something is wrong with the refrigerant temperature sensor circuit. For further dignosis the books suggest checking the sensor's 2-pin connector which is allegedly below the blower motor unit. I have taken the glove box out so I can see the blower, but I cannot identify the 2-pin connector or the sensor. Can anyone give me any clues?
Dave 1992 JDM import |
#2
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The service manual says it is on connector BM2, lead numbers 11 and 13. I'm looking up which connector is BM2 now.
Says: 1: Remove glove box 2: Disconnect Connector (BM2) 3: Turn ignition to "ON" 4: Measure resistance using the table below. "Table below" is a non-linear graph, that at a temp of 77degrees fahrenheit shows about 2.2Kohm. 68 degrees is about 2.67kohm, and 86 degress is about 1.83kohm. I'm looking up where BM2 is, but it looks like it's in the wiring section manual.
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Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#3
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OK... This is confusing.
The refrigerant temperature sensor is a 2 pin device that plugs into a 2 pin connector (BM3). It appears you can't get to that from where you are. But... If you can see the two connectors, both 2 pins each on top and to the left of the blower unit, it is the 2 pin connector to the right of the two connectors. The wires are Green/white and Brown/white. But (BM3) splices into a larger connector (BM2). And that's where they said to disconnect and measure from. It is a 14 pin connector. The numbering and color code as follows: |Tab| |8 |7 |6 | 5 |4 | 3 |2 |1 | |14|13 |XX|12 |11|XX|10|9 | L=Blue, B=Black, Lg=Light green, G=Green, and Gr=Grey. The rest are self explanatory. 1-W 2-G 3-Y 4-LW 5-LgR 6-Br 7-L 8-BR 9-Lg 10-WR 11-GW 12-YR 13-BrW 14-NC Best I can do. Hopefully someone smarter than me... which is everyone else, will come along and clarify.
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Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#4
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That "|tab|" up above should be located in the middle... obviously.
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#5
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Actually, my connector came out all goofed up once it was posted.
Envision pins 1 and 8 are in line and directly above pins 9 and 14 respectively. Geez!!
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#6
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The slots with the "XX" are indentions, there is nothing there at all on the connector. no wires, and no slots there to put wires.
I'll shut up now.
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#7
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Electrophil,
Thanks for the help. I think I can work out where to find the wires and connectors now. I have a feeling that the JDM car that I hve has a slightly different wiring diagram to the one you are describing but I can check that tomorrow. You have given me enough clues. If it is the refrigerant temperature sensor that is causing the problem, have you any idea where it physically is? Dave |
#8
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The manual shows it installed inside the evaporator. It is fitted into a housing attached onto and below the expansion valve. The wires come out of a gromet in the top-back running forward to the top-front into a connector facing toward you. There's a large pipe inside the evaporator which is between the refrigerant temp sensor and the fan control amplifier. As you are facing the evaporator, we are talking the right/passenger's side of it. On the blower motor side.
I've never been in there, I'm looking down at a Subaru service manual, Section 4-7, page 20. I am speaking from a book, not from any experience. That other 2 pin connector next to the BM3 connector is the one for the evaporator sensor. The connectors are anchored side by side., both are just to the left of the blower motor, sitting on top of the evaporator. The evaporator sensor is built into the left side of the evaporator, and the refrigerant sensor is built into the right side of the evaporator. Whew!!
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) Last edited by Electrophil; 03-26-2005 at 02:47 PM. |
#9
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We're getting somewhere! But, where exactly is the evaporator? I've got another SVX sitting on the drive and it might just be a lot easier to change the refrigeration sensors and see if the problem goes away rather than lying upside down under the glove box!
Dave |
#10
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The evaporator is in the cooling box that sitting to the left of the blower motor assembly. The evaporator looks like a small radiator, and that's what it is. If you go out under the hood, and follow your AC lines to the firewall, those lines feed into the evaporator. The refrigerant removes a bunch of heat energy from the evaporator, sucking it from the fins, while the blower motor blows air over the assembly trapping heat energy from the air onto the fins as the refrigerant keeps removing it. Etc., etc.
So it goes from passenger side to drivers side: Blower motor assembly connected to Cooling unit/evaporator connected to the combined heater unit/mix mode assembly. Your demon resides in the box just to the left of the blower motor assembly.
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) Last edited by Electrophil; 03-26-2005 at 06:17 PM. |
#11
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Phil,
I have found the B2/B3 connector, but haven't been able to take it apart yet and I have found the evaporator as well, but there's no sign so far of the refrigerant temperature sensor - it must be very well hidden or so obvious I can't see it! Reasonable progress - I will hopefully have more time tomorrow. Dave |
#12
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According to the manual, it's in a housing. If you have the cooling unit open, which remember..... your refrigerant needs to be evacuated if you remove the cooling unit/evaporator.
But if the unit is open, just follow the wiring down to that housing. The manual shows it connects into it.
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#13
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Thaks again. I am slightly puzzled as the 'workshop manual' available on the web just says ' replace sensor' - it doesn't mention anything about draining the system to do so.
One other question - where is the sight glass showing the quantity of refrigerant in the system? Dave |
#14
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Quote:
I just meant if you "remove" the evaporator, you will have to, or the freon is going to end up on your carpet. You can check the refrigerant through the eyepiece on your dryer. The dryer is the usual long cylinder, and it's located right in front of your ABS hydraulic assembly under the hood. Or if you don't have ABS, in front of your air filter assembly. The car has to be running and the air conditioner on to see activity through the eyepiece.
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Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#15
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Just to be on the safe side presume the system is fully charged. Typically that would mean around 100psi static, more on the high side if the compressor is running. Not something to be screwing around with if you aren't experienced. The sight glass will be clear if the system is completely empty OR completely charged OR over-charged.
R-12 boils at something like -30F degrees. Plan on losing an eyeball if a drop should happen to hit it in liquid form. Skin will freeze-burn when it somes in contact. Not trying to scare anyone but give a fair warning.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
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