F@#K ..... help lol

[aust92pearl]

drivin home lastnight (18km) 12 mile drive car drove fine sounded fine temp normal till i was about half a mile away from home then the temp shot up to above boiling, and was making an reasonably loud knocking noise ,i stoped it and left the car ,smoke was pouring out from the hood but it smelt like melted rubber and/or oil ?, checked it this morning rad is empty i put 5 or so litres in and it pretty much flowed straight back out from underneath but its not leaking from the rad or rad hoses that i could see just pouring off the bottom of the sump pan ( i hope its not the water pump fubared again cos i bought the last genuine one subie aust had in stock last time i changed it lol)
?????????

[SoCal LS-L]

Oh that sucks! You should find for sure where its coming from first, maybe someone can pour water slowly into the radiator while you watch underneath. Cross your fingers that it doesnt come out of the head gasket..... although the loud knocking is not good news either. Did you check your oil also? Low oil can cause overheating and knocking.

Basically, its unusual for coolant to pour that hard from a failed gasket, so you will just have to get under there w a flashlight and confirm the leak... then we can go from there.

[aust92pearl]

oil is fine water was fine i changed oil about two weeks ago and is still full and water was full i checked it on sunday . if its the head gasket i guess she will be out of action til i have enuf to fix her up good and proper (i.e. full rebuild and 5mt swap). yeah il have a look this afternoon wen i get back from work x10000000000000000000000000

[SoCal LS-L]

I wouldnt worry a whole lot just yet, it could be as simple as a heater hose blew at the water pump.... we just cant know until you examine further. I hope the best for ya man!

[huck369]

My bet is a Bad Water pump....pull the timing belt coves and check it out

[SoCal LS-L]

Yeah you're probably right Huck, mine had almost all the same symptoms when it seized except for the knocking. If this is the case, a full timing belt kit with pulleys should be purchased, as the heat from the belt friction on the seized WP pulley caused my smooth pulleys dust seals to cook and later pop off, resulting in skipped timing when one fell off into the spinning belt.

[aust92pearl]

the water pump was only put in about 12 months ago a brand new oem one, the last one subaru aust had in the inventory lol damn it.
yeah i didnt change the pulleys when i did the pump i guess il just have to get a whole set of pulleys (timing , air con and power steering)

[aust92pearl]

it looks like its a return hose for the pump i think its on the left bank
hmm its gunna be fun changing that hose without taking the intake off .
water pump is turning but i dont know whether it seized when it happened

[aust92pearl]

got it fixed needed help from the local nrma service the hose was screwed the whole inside layer of rubber had deteriorated away and swollen up

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by aust92pearl

got it fixed needed help from the local nrma service the hose was screwed the whole inside layer of rubber had deteriorated away and swollen up

Could you get at the hose without taking the manifold off?
Thats the By-pass hose, might be worth checking the heater hose on the other side.

Harvey.

[aust92pearl]

yeah with a couple of (foot) long screw drivers and a pair of long nose pliers and a lot of ingenuity and patience . i put new clamps on it too as i sorta destroyed the old ones . yeah checked that one it was done wen i bypassed the heater core although the ones coming straight off the pump look a bit old and so do the throttle body ones so il get some hose and change them

[aust92pearl]

ok so i got some more hose and changed the other small pipes coming off the pump i wonder why one pipe 1/2 inch and the other 5/8th
anyways all is good tho i had to loop the 5/8th hose so it didnt kink just got the little throttle body ones to do now