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#16
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checked under hood
of my green car, [same month build as my red car] fuse box cover states 10amp fuse DIFF LOCK, but no fuse is there ??..ahh but then my owners manual says that its cavity 32 [DIFF LOCK} "fuse rating" = empty, for other categories it states the fuse size or spare or empty...so I guess a fuse isn't needed there..hmmm
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Dave Down Under |
#17
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Re: checked under hood
Quote:
When a fuse is inserted into the "DIFF LOCK" socket, the centre differential (planetary gearset) is locked by the clutch, to provide a permanent 50/50 front/rear torque split. One side effect of this is that you will get binding in low speed turns, as the centre differential is now incapable of allowing the front and rear axles to spin at different speeds. Since you have a "DIFF LOCK" fuse socket, you have the VTD system. If you have a transfer clutch (not VTD), and you insert the "FWD" fuse, the transfer clutch is switched off, so that no torque is applied to the rear axle. You therefore have a permanent 100/0 front/rear torque split. .........hope this is of some help! Jason.
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1992 Charcoal Grey SVX - 165,000km 1992 Ruby Red SVX - 165,000km ....now with sequential VIN numbers! 1986 Holden (Isuzu) Piazza Turbo - 225,000km 1993 Mercedes W140 S500 Coupe - 153,000km 1990 Mercedes W124 300D - 313,000km EG33 + 4EAT + VTD AWD = SVX Last edited by JDW-SVX; 06-24-2004 at 01:42 AM. |
#18
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Checking for a broken clutch basket is actually pretty easy, but there's another test that is even easier you can do first.
Find a quiet place and turn the ignition key on until your dash looks like a Christmas tree, but don't start the car. If you bend down and put your head under the car, you should hear a faint clicking/buzzing noise coming from the rear of your transmission. This noise is duty solenoid C cycling. Under the hood, open the fuse box and put a fuse in the FWD fuse slot. The clicking should go away when you do this. If you notice a difference in the noise, the solenoid is working. If you don't hear anything, check for trouble codes on the TCU. This should pretty much verify if the electronics are working. If you have a trouble code for solenoid C, or don't hear any noise, stop right here. You've got an electrical problem. If the electronics looks good, you're gonna have to get dirty. Here's how to check for a broken clutch basket: On the rear of the transmission is wheel speed sensor number two. The sensor contains a magnet. The dark oily hole in the top centre of this photo is where the sensor is located. You'll need a 10mm wrench to remove it. (The higher up you can get the car, the easier this will be.) When you pull it out, if there are a lot of metal shavings on it, you're clutch basket is almost certainly broken. More pictures in my locker. If you can turn a wrench, you can change a broken clutch basket yourself. You don't have to pull the transmission - just the housing at the end of it. I'm not sure where to get a replacement. I welded mine back together. This is what a broken transfer clutch basket looks like: Last edited by UberRoo; 06-26-2004 at 12:00 AM. |
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