water pump? Need quick help - please!

[lee]

I have a leak in my cooling system. The drips are coming from above the thermostat housing, but can't spot the exact location visually with the engine all together.

Does this mean the pump is dying? The archives say to replace the timing belt while I'm in there.

I have ordered a belt and pump, but would like to avoid effort on the wrong thing. I already replaced the lower hoses (1 big, two small) and thermostat thinking that's what was leaking (stupidly made that diagnosis without taking off the plastic belly pan and looking).

D#@n, the left front brake line burst while I was moving it from one side of the garage to the other (had to vacate my wife's spot) - ordered that too. Lucky I have a fairly responsive local parts guy - all the stuff will be here tomorrow by noon.

I've owned this vehicle 4 days, think it's angry because it left it's old home?

I would appreciate any hints as to the timing belt replacement (like what to line up, any special concerns). Saw in the arives some concern over not having special tools for the pulley(s) - can a reasonable person overcome this - what should I worry about breaking? Have been a mechanic in careers past. Nearest subaru dealer is about 80 miles away so it will be awhile before I can get the manual.

thanks for any thing somebody can say before noon Eastern tomorrow when I dive in - ready or not.

[Beav]

Did Buddy's in Ft. Pierce close up? It used to be the only Subie dealer around. There was talk of Baslow-Hentschel taking them over, but I haven't been around for a few years. (ex-Vero, Wabasso and Sebastian)

For a good reference try coughing up $25 at www.alldatadiy.com - next best thing to the factory service manuals.

Timing belt is one of the easiest around - just need a vise to compress tensioner (will need a very small allen wrench to peg it in place once compressed.) The dampener can be wiggled off with a little persuasion, just don't crack the belt edges - also check it for separating from the hub like a small block chevy.

Beav

[lee]

Beav,

I will try the alldatadiy site.

Don't know about Ft Pierce, Orlando is closer to me and there are a couple of dealers that way. Is the Ft Pierce dealer a recommendation?

In case the alldata site isn't specific, and since you mention small block chevy's, when the belt goes back on after the pump (I'm assuming you think it's the pump leaking?) is it obvious what has to line up?

[Beav]

I haven't lived down there since '86, though my parents still do. Can't recommend anyone at this point.

Yeah, the marks are pretty easy, just put it on TDC to begin so you don't go 180 out. With an air ratchet should take about thirty minutes. Plan on how to loosen crank bolt before starting, that's the hardest part.

If you've got water coming from that area it's probably a good bet it's the pump.

Beav

Originally posted by Beav

Yeah, the marks are pretty easy, just put it on TDC to begin so you don't go 180 out. With an air ratchet should take about thirty minutes. Plan on how to loosen crank bolt before starting, that's the hardest part.

The hardest part for me was the camshaft crank. I don't know if it had been removed and replaced before or not, but it was a PITA to get broke loose.

Also, while I was in there, I replaced the camseals for about 3 bucks a piece at NAPA (vs $10 at subaruparts.com)

Good Luck!

Keep in mind the new OE cam and crank seals are brown Viton instead of the old black stuff that gets hard after not too many miles. The old style supercedes to the new part number.

[kuoh]

How did you finally get it loose? I was helping a friend replace his belt and he wanted to do the seals, but we just couldn't get the cam bolt loose. We even got an air wrench and took out the headlight for a straighter shot at it. Either the airwrench was broken and couldn't put out the 240+ ft/lb of torque or it was seriously overtightened.

KuoH

Originally posted by Chad


The hardest part for me was the camshaft crank. I don't know if it had been removed and replaced before or not, but it was a PITA to get broke loose.

Also, while I was in there, I replaced the camseals for about 3 bucks a piece at NAPA (vs $10 at subaruparts.com)

Good Luck!

there is a step by step at www.ryanmacdonald.com

Originally posted by kuoh
How did you finally get it loose? I was helping a friend replace his belt and he wanted to do the seals, but we just couldn't get the cam bolt loose. We even got an air wrench and took out the headlight for a straighter shot at it. Either the airwrench was broken and couldn't put out the 240+ ft/lb of torque or it was seriously overtightened.

KuoH

I also had an impact wrench and removed the headlamp assy. But I got mad and would try anything so......


Disclaimer: This is what I did. Don't try this at home.

I used a double open end wrench. (I think the one I used was 1/2 and 9/16.) Anyway, I put one end of the wrench around one of the sprokets on the inside of the pulley and the fenderwell had a hole in it perfect for the other end. Thought I was going to break it with, but used a cheater bar (about 2 foot) to help me out.

You want to get your Crankshaft pulley off.

Simple have a friend get under the car and stick a screw driver in the fly wheel, While you wrench it off. The put it back on the same way.

Like in the previous post check out ryans site.

Later,
Chris

[lee]

Thanks for all the advice. The work was done today and while I still have a few things to get done before I really start to drive, I'm very pleased with the car.

And I'm very pleased with the support of the members of this forum - I've been on others (this isn't the only unusual vehicle I've owned - my wife thinks they are drawn to me like moths to a flame) - and the speed and help are simply great.

[Beav]

Originally posted by lee
- and the speed and help are simply great.

No problem, that's why we're all here. You'll get your bill in the mail.


Beav