Brake light stays on

[ColoSVXer]

Greetings,
This is my first post but I have been following this site for years.
Thank all of you for the very informative posts. It has helped me a lot
since I bought my SVX on 3/2014.
I am the proud owner of a 1996 LSi almost mint condition beast. I have been looking for years to get the "right" one and this fits my appetite.

The parking brake light on my instrument panel stays on when I release the brake handle. Also, the "Stop Lamp" comes on when I press on the brake pedal even though all rear brake lights come on. I'm not sure where to start with this, but a friend told me it could be the switch on the brake pedal is sticking, or not releasing. This just started as the weather got colder.

Also, does only the 1996 and 1997 not have the "Power" light when you accelerate quickly?
Thank you

[Ron Mummert]

Check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. If it's only a smidge low, the light will come on.

[svxcess]

...
...Open the brake fluid reservoir cap and check the position of the rubber bladder



.

[svxcess]

.
Remove the cap on your brake reservoir. The rubber bladder in your cap will probably look like this:




Collapse the bladder by using your fingers to push it back into the correct position:



The reservoir has a magnetic float in it that operates a reed switch under it, to bring on the E brake light, when the fluid is low. The rubber bellows can hold the float down to bring on the light, just opening the top and folding the bellows back up, will turn the light off.


Replace the cap.

Is your brake fluid level low?


.

[LetItSnow]

The STOP LAMP indicator is completely unrelated to any fluid properties of the braking system.

Are you using normal (non-LED) bulbs?

Another possible scenario: <click>

[svxcess]

.
Check out this short thread. Easiest to check and possibly the answer to your stop lamp problem.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...hlight=Checker



The stop lamp checker uses the amperage difference between the trunk panel and the two body mounted stop lights to determine if a bulb is bad. Very similar design to a GFCI outlet in your house.

If you have unmatched wattage bulbs, the difference in amperage can be enough to trigger the checker even if all four bulbs work.

Bulbs are dirt cheap so when I have one go out, I replace all four with the same brand.

.

[ColoSVXer]

Thank you everyone for your response. The brake fluid in master cylinder was about 1/4" above Low level and the bladder was also extended. That fixed the parking brake light, but the "Stop Lamp" still comes on when I press the brake pedal even though all lights illuminate. ??

I also asked another question, and perhaps on this forum, you can only post one at a time. I was curious if only the 96 and 97 are the only models in which there is not a "Power" light on the dash when you accelerate quickly? Even though the tranny is strong, when I do floor it at low speeds, there is not as much acceleration I was expecting. Is this typical of SVX's with the 4EAT tranny?

[Blacky]

There is no power light on the '96 and '97 but the computer is still doing it's thing. It just doesn't turn on a little light to let you know.
The SVX is not a rocket off the line. It is much faster when accelerating from speed such as when passing. It's a GT not a sports car and as such has quite tall gearing.

[svxcess]

Originally Posted by ColoSVXer

but the "Stop Lamp" still comes on when I press the brake pedal even though all lights illuminate. ??

Try changing all four of the brake bulbs, matching them to the same wattage.


The stop lamp checker uses the amperage difference between the trunk panel and the two body mounted stop lights to determine if a bulb is 'bad'.

If you have unmatched wattage bulbs, the difference in amperage can be enough to trigger the checker, even if all four bulbs work.

Bulbs are dirt cheap so when I have one go out, I replace all four with the same brand.

[ColoSVXer]

You are correct. I just replaced one bulb that was out and used an old spare I had in the garage. The wattage difference makes sense on why the indicator comes on.
btw, looking for the complete rear power antenna or maybe just the mast. Was considering buying a new OEM but they are pricey.

I need to get both rear bearings replaced as my once very quiet ride is getting a bit noisy. I can do most of the basic stuff, but pressing out and replacing rear bearings is beyond my tool set. Besides that, those dam hydraulic hood supports are shot and I might consider something other than original.

[92 SVX]

Originally Posted by ColoSVXer

You are correct. I just replaced one bulb that was out and used an old spare I had in the garage. The wattage difference makes sense on why the indicator comes on.
btw, looking for the complete rear power antenna or maybe just the mast. Was considering buying a new OEM but they are pricey.

I need to get both rear bearings replaced as my once very quiet ride is getting a bit noisy. I can do most of the basic stuff, but pressing out and replacing rear bearings is beyond my tool set. Besides that, those dam hydraulic hood supports are shot and I might consider something other than original.

there is a great write up on the hood and trunk struts on this forum,im on a tablet with limited resources or i would find and link

[svxcess]

.

Originally Posted by 92 SVX

There is a great write up on the hood and trunk struts on this forum. I'm on a tablet with limited resources or I would find and link

THE ORIGINAL THREAD FOR STRUTS STARTS HERE


All the parts needed are listed below. No trimming, cutting, just a bit of drilling. Truly plug and play

[2] GSNI-22449-89 struts... http://www.asraymond.com/catalog.htm...&id=GSNI244989[/COLOR]
[2] M8 x 1.25 nuts
[2] nylon bushings (from original struts)
[4] 10MM M8x1.25 ball studs ...http://www.ebay.com/itm/Qty-4-Ball-S...tWGDcy&vxp=mtr



INSTRUCTIONS CAN BE FOUND HERE

Begin reading my posts starting with 24


HOW TO DRILL OUT RIVETS CAN BE FOUND HERE


Basically, prop the hood up with a piece of wood so it stays at opened height.

Using a wrench, unbolt the nut on the end of the ball stud where it is attached to the hood

Unbolt the 2 bolts holding the struts to the fender.

Drill out rivets on the bracket. when it comes apart, save the bracket and nylon spacer. the rest is junk.

Follow the rest of the directions..

Assemble the new ball stud into the original bracket (with spacer) It is easier to attach the strut to the fender bracket (with new ball and nut already attached) BEFORE you bolt in onto the fender. It will make sense when you look at the photos. Do not tighten completely

Screw in new ball stud into the hood.

Clip on the hood strut at onto the ball in the hood.

Tighten everything

.