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#1
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No AC air conditioning Bad Sun Sensor
The ac is not working. The compressor will not come on and the radiator fans do not come on. The fuses and relays are all okay. So I ran the climate control self check and the sun sensor has an open circuit or short. Does anybody know if this bad sun sensor prevents the ac from working?
Take care of that SVX, John
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May your transmission live forever. SuperbVehicleXtraordinary Proud sponsor of a 1992 SVX. |
#2
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I would make sure...
the system is properly charged with refrigerant. (You may already have)
Would not suspect the sun sensor, but everything is possible. Could be a several things. Bad clutch on the compressor? Probably unlikely. I would go for the low refrigerant level first. again, you may already have done the test on that. Good luck, Keith |
#3
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Do you have something sitting on top of the sensor, like a parking pass?
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Chris 92 Ebony Mica LS-L "A Rolling Restoration": 223,250 KM - Sleeping 2007 STi 6MT, Stance GR+ coilovers, PWR Rad, JDM hood badge, svxfiles 6000K HIDs, JDM Clear Corners, $15/15 min mod, $20/20 min mod, Energy Swaybar Bushings, Hella Supertones horns, Gold STi BBS rims, Group A lightweight crank pulley, A/C system removed, Custom header-back exhaust, Hybrid carbon/metal rear sway bar, restored headlights with CCFL halos 2008 Subaru Legacy Spec B - Diamond Grey Metallic - Sold 2020 Ram 1500 Longhorn - Red Pearl |
#4
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Not sure if this applies to the SVX, but Toyotas will set a code for the sun sensor when they are in the shop, due to the fluorescent lighting, so if you're inside, that may be what's doing it, although I don't think that a bad sun load sensor would keep the AC from working at all.
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1992 SVX LS-L #1222 Pearl White 1987 GL Turbo wagon, 5 lug conversion, D/R 5 speed (Rice killer) 1992 Dodge Ram 4x4 diesel (car hauler) 1968 Dodge Polara convertible (Camaro killer) 1990 Toyota Corolla FWD auto (330,000 mile grocery getter) 1986 VW Jetta |
#5
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I have just checked my JDM SVX. When defrost is selected and operates, hot air is not discharged unless the temperature control is set to a figure above ambient. If the setting is below ambient, only cold air is discharged.
I can only presume that this is the normal arrangement, even though it does nor appear logical. This could well be causing confusion in respect of what has been considered as a fault.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#6
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Quote:
Does the compressor not work if the pressure is low? A low pressure cut off switch? Is there a way to kick the compressor on?
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May your transmission live forever. SuperbVehicleXtraordinary Proud sponsor of a 1992 SVX. Last edited by svx_commuter; 04-14-2008 at 10:17 AM. Reason: added more |
#7
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Nope. It's all clear up there.
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May your transmission live forever. SuperbVehicleXtraordinary Proud sponsor of a 1992 SVX. |
#8
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Quote:
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May your transmission live forever. SuperbVehicleXtraordinary Proud sponsor of a 1992 SVX. |
#9
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Quote:
The most likely cause would be low on refrigerant, low pressure. Are you aware there is a full and complete AC troubleshooting section in the How-To above? That will inform you what to look for. Regards the sunload sensor, you will get this code every time you run the diagnostic and you don't have strong sunlight shining on the sensor [but a strong 100w bulb [high heat energy] shining near it will do the equivalent] Running that test in low light will nearly always throw that code. Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#10
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The "how to" I printed out does not say how to check the refrigerant level at all.........as far as I can tell.
__________________
May your transmission live forever. SuperbVehicleXtraordinary Proud sponsor of a 1992 SVX. |
#11
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To chycec the presure...
Quote:
Quote:
We can help you from there. Keith |
#12
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Yeah John, Keith is right.
If you look at page 8 of the AC how-to, you will see what it suggests may be wrong if the compressor clutch does not engage, which is the symptom you have. It suggests checking fuse 15 is OK, so I expect you will have seen to this. Without saying how to do it, it says refrigerant level may be low and should be checked. The only way to check this is to put gauges on to the high and low connectors, and see what pressures you have. Back at the top of the document it shows the range the pressures need to be at. In order for the correct pressures to be there, it requires that the correct amount of refrigerant is in the system. They give this amount in fluid ozs I think. AC engineers will know from how low your pressure is showing what percentage [or ozs if you like] of refrigerant needs to be added. I'm not that expert, so I can't help you there, but that's how it is done. Usually, though, they add some gas with dye first, and watch for system leaks. No point filling it up if you need to fix a leak first. Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#13
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Okay the the climate control computer checks out okay. No sun load sensor error now that the sun is shines on the dashboard!!!! I know I have read about this in the past post so I am not the only one to test this computer in the DARK.
My A/C was leaking when I got the SVX back in 2000. At that time I had the "Leak dye" added. It has been cold ever since then. Last year I thought it was having trouble keeping up but the pressure checked okay. The gauge I have borrowed looks like a tire gauge with the stem that pops out to read pressure. It is set up just for the low pressure side. They say to use the gauge only after running the compressor for five minutes. What I do not know is if the low pressure changes when the compressor is running. Well any way I was busy last night I had to change a coil that went bad yesterday. The one in the back on the left side. Went well only 1-1/2 hrs to find the used one and put it in. Take care of that SVX, John
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May your transmission live forever. SuperbVehicleXtraordinary Proud sponsor of a 1992 SVX. |
#14
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The pressure doesn't really change all that much. It stays right around 40PSI (at least, that's what I got on a 70 degree day). If you just get a can of refrigerant with a pressure gauge already, all you have to do is empty the can in until you meet the correct pressure in the system. It should take about 21-25oz of R134. If your are is equipped with R12, that's going to be a problem because they don't really sell R12 anymore.
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-Jason (8/23/07-Present) 1995 Subaru SVX LSi (197k) Polo Green (#1102) 03/95 Mods: DDM Tuning 4500k 35w Low Beam HID, 100w H3 Bulbs, Extra Ground Cables, 15 minute $12.96 mod, svxfiles designed transmission mount (), sporting a "new" tail light bar, silver BBS rims, custom power steering cooler (one that doesn't dump ATF constantly), new negative lead cable, no more third or fourth gear (1977-Present) 1977 Chevrolet Corvette (81k) Silver (12/01/2011-Present) 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i Limited 5MT (97k) I have a bad feeling about this. -Obi Wan Kenobi |
#15
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Probably the easiest way....
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Of course, the engine has to be running and the air conditioner turned on to cold (real cold.) If the compressor clutch doesn't engage because of the low pressure switch, adding refrigerant will increase the pressure and make it come on. If the compressor clutch engages and starts pumping, you should get some frost developing on the low side line as you charge the system with the refrigerant. If you should over charge it, the high side safety will cause the clutch to disengage. and clutch will go on and off as the pressure in the high side fluctuates, then just purge it a bit.This is of course, after the frost has began to develop. It would be possible for the low side safety to disengage the clutch with the system undercharged, because of the engaged compressor clutch pulling the pressure down too quickly. (not likely, but possible) If you have frost on the line, you are probably getting close. Pressure in the system will vary a lot when it begins cooling because the high pressure side gets pretty hot and expands the gas. (refrigerant) It is possible to get R12. Real costly. A few years back it was $20.00 for 30 lbs. Now, since the Gestapo, US Government), got into the game, it now is about $1,400.00 wholesale for 30 lbs. However R414A is a direct replacement for R12 with no problems...and more readily available. (what I use) "just pour it in". Hope this helps, Keith Last edited by kwren; 04-15-2008 at 03:31 PM. Reason: spelling... of course LOL |
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