Picked up my Steel Gray WRX TR today!!!

[Chiketkd]

Originally Posted by benebob

I don't think you understand what break in is for and what it actually does. It simply helps everything seat properly, wear in evenly, etc. There is no way to tell if a car had been broken in properly at 120k or not but in the long term a car will last a shorter period internally then one that isn't. Also it will run slightly stronger typically if broken in properly etc. It just typically leads to problems down the road. Granted most newer engines never die unlike older ones. Just passing along very sound advice which came from that company that you seem to admire so much . Not from the hick down them hills who gots himself a rally car ya know..

Its wise not to switch up after using one for a while but that is simply for seal reasons, nothing else. You wouldn't be in that position yet.

Did you read the owners manual? I think if I remember correctly I was told by someone too that the oil should stay in for 3k, not the 1k you stated but my memory isn't the greatest and as Hocrest can attest to. I don't read manuals. That's why I needed him for the race car. He reads and I hack.

As for the warranty. You never know. Just again, sound advice that you already paid for so why not take it. Maybe you'll pop twins out in 10 months and you're plans will be put on hold.

I understand break-in, and the owner manual says describes it in detail. However, the break-in period only lasts for 1K miles after which time you're supposed to bring the car in for an oil change and a safety check.

My car already received the safety check after the sales manager's road trip, and the break-in oil stayed in the car for 1K miles longer.

If twins pop out, I won't be selling this car, but my wife will probably get a minivan instead of the SUV she wants!

-Chike

[n00b on demand]

Originally Posted by benebob

Maybe you'll pop twins out in 10 months and you're plans will be put on hold.

Chike that must be really painful!!

[Chiketkd]

Originally Posted by benebob

From my limited knowledge its the opposite as to above. Sythetic better at cold temps then regular. Not sure about the opposite. I know that for highway driving studies have shown that regular oil was a better lub then sythetic as it "stuck" better but who did the studies I don't know. I just remember reading it somewhere that was somewhat rep.

All motor oil breaks down over time with heat and it's been proven again and again that synthetic oil breaks down at a much slower rate than regular oil under the same conditions.

-Chike

[Chiketkd]

Originally Posted by n00b on demand

Chike that must be really painful!!

Hey, it hasn't happened - so I don't want to think about the pain!

-Chike

[benebob]

Originally Posted by Chiketkd

I understand break-in, and the owner manual says describes it in detail. However, the break-in period only lasts for 1K miles after which time you're supposed to bring the car in for an oil change and a safety check.

My car already received the safety check after the sales manager's road trip, and the break-in oil stayed in the car for 1K miles longer.

If twins pop out, I won't be selling this car, but my wife will probably get a minivan instead of the SUV she wants!

-Chike

Where's this 1k oil change you speak of at? Not in subarus recommended schedule?

[Chiketkd]

Originally Posted by benebob

Where's this 1k oil change you speak of at? Not in subarus recommended schedule?

I'll have to check again, but I know the break-in is 1K and the first oil change is recommended shortly thereafter.

-Chike

[mbtoloczko]

With a good synthetic, its possible to go 10-12k miles between oil changes. The reason that synthetics can go so much longer is because they are much better at resisting acidification and thermal breakdown than dinos. Good synthetics will also have better wear resisting properties than dinos. The key to going 10k miles on a synthetic is to continue to change the filter every 3-4k miles. If anyone wants to take a more calculated approach to oil change intervals, there are shops that will analyze an oil sample from your crankcase and tell you the exact condition of the oil and its composition, including metal from wear. The values can be compared to the accepted range for motor oil in useable condition. The crank case oil can be sampled every few k miles to watch the condition change over time.

Also, don't undervalue the importance of the oil filter. These guys are perhaps more important than the motor oil when it comes to protecting the engine from wear. The best filter out there right now is the Purolator Pure One. It filters down to smaller size particles than any other filter out there.

[benebob]

Originally Posted by mbtoloczko

With a good synthetic, its possible to go 10-12k miles between oil changes. The reason that synthetics can go so much longer is because they are much better at resisting acidification and thermal breakdown than dinos. Good synthetics will also have better wear resisting properties than dinos. The key to going 10k miles on a synthetic is to continue to change the filter every 3-4k miles. If anyone wants to take a more calculated approach to oil change intervals, there are shops that will analyze an oil sample from your crankcase and tell you the exact condition of the oil and its composition, including metal from wear. The values can be compared to the accepted range for motor oil in useable condition. The crank case oil can be sampled every few k miles to watch the condition change over time.

Also, don't undervalue the importance of the oil filter. These guys are perhaps more important than the motor oil when it comes to protecting the engine from wear. The best filter out there right now is the Purolator Pure One. It filters down to smaller size particles than any other filter out there.

Ah but BMW is getting that out of conventional oil aren't they w/o a filter change.

[Shadow248]

Originally Posted by benebob

From my limited knowledge its the opposite as to above. Sythetic better at cold temps then regular. Not sure about the opposite. I know that for highway driving studies have shown that regular oil was a better lub then sythetic as it "stuck" better but who did the studies I don't know. I just remember reading it somewhere that was somewhat rep.

Synthetic is better at both ends of the temperature spectrum. It handles "extreme temps" better. You're also right though that it does not actually lubricate quite as well as natural oil. However also consider at what level we are speaking, both types ability to lubricate is more than sufficient for our (even high performance) motors. The distinction would become more important with endurance type applications where the motor is run consistently in it's power band for several consecutive hours. This is where those nazi's on my home site base their insistence on using only the German Castrol oil. They claim they need it. I still don't buy it.

What it comes down to is what you feel comfortable doing. During break-in, the change interval is more important than the type of oil used. Just a bit of interesting info - the oil used to lubricate the hand-built LS7's (during build-up) in the Corvette Z06 is synthetic. But i've also heard of "experts" insisting on only using natural oil during break in. Again I think it's an argument over two slightly different shades of red, as they say.

[Chiketkd]

Originally Posted by mbtoloczko

With a good synthetic, its possible to go 10-12k miles between oil changes. The reason that synthetics can go so much longer is because they are much better at resisting acidification and thermal breakdown than dinos. Good synthetics will also have better wear resisting properties than dinos. The key to going 10k miles on a synthetic is to continue to change the filter every 3-4k miles.

That's what I've heard and read as well.

I also change my oil filter at each oil change (3-4K miles) and I use the factory filter (which I'm told is a Purolator).

-Chike

[mbtoloczko]

Originally Posted by Chiketkd

That's what I've heard and read as well.

I also change my oil filter at each oil change (3-4K miles) and I use the factory filter (which I'm told is a Purolator).

-Chike

Read up on the Pure One. You might change your mind about using the factory oil filter.

[Landshark]

there are too many claims/myths, and no real hard evidence to back anything up, so i just use common sense.

i changed my oil at 1500 (get any junk out from the new engine).

i will change it every 3k with regular dino oil.

after 10k, i will switch to synthetic, and change every 4-5k. i've read that synth is not good for new seals, and not good to throw in on a high-mileage engine with old seals. it certainly can't HURT to wait, so i'll just wait.

again, common sense.

[Chiketkd]

...by Amsoil comparing their synthetic motor oil to other major brands. They tested:

AMSOIL ATM
Mobil 1 Extended Performance
Quaker State Advanced Full Synthetic
Pennzoil Platinum
Trop Artic
Motorcraft
Castrol GTX
Chevron Supreme
Havoline
Formula Shell
Pennzoil

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetests/g1971/index.aspx

While the testers may have had a reason to bias the results towards Amsoil, there should have been neutrality towards the other brands. Mobil 1 synthetic consistently placed high in each and every test.

-Chike

[Chiketkd]

Originally Posted by mbtoloczko

Read up on the Pure One. You might change your mind about using the factory oil filter.

Aren't the Subaru factory oil filters made by Purolator? I've never seen a test of the OE subaru filter, they've always used ones from other manufacturers like Ford, Audi, etc.

-Chike

[svxcess]

Does the WRX take the same oil filter as the SVX? If so, you might want to check out svxfiles locker about the oil filter upgrade. Basically it is a Porsche 944 filter with the same mechanical specs as ours, but 66% bigger (holds more oil and has more filtration capacity) I have had them in for the last 3 oil changes and no problems at all.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/use...svxfiles|29215

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