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  #1  
Old 05-16-2004, 09:40 AM
lee lee is offline
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update to front axle replacement method

I just did the driver's side this AM. I used the How-To folder, and the original posts by (I think) svx_commuter and alacrity024 to do the job. While it's still fresh in my mind I thought I'd add a few tips I found along the way...here's what I did:

1) Unlock the steering (turn ignition key to ACC position) and jack-up both front tires (you will see why later). Use jack-stands for safety; do NOT rely on just the jack(s) to hold the car up. I put the jack stands under the frame rail that the inner side of the A-arm connects to – midway between the A-arm bushings. Do NOT jack it up or use jack stands on the A-arm itself. Make sure the car is high enough for you to crawl under to the transmission.

2) Remove the wheel/tire on the side that needs axle replacement.

3) Remove the hubcap on the end of the axle. I used a thin, flat-bladed screwdriver to start, then pried it off with a larger screwdriver. Un-stake the axle nut, assuming the previous installation punched in an edge of the nut at the slot on the axle shaft.

4) Remove the axle nut using an impact wrench and appropriate socket (what I did). Socket size is 32mm (I used a 1-1/4” socket, it works too). Two alternatives: a) have someone step firmly on brake pedal while you use a breaker-bar/socket, or b) you could put the tire back on, lower the car (to use the car to hold the rotor/axle assembly from turning) and break loose the nut

5) Rotate axle to locate small hole in axle by transmission. Drive out the pin. A nail or similar may be substituted for a punch - find the correct size using the new axle. Make sure it is not too large or tapers too much or it may get stuck in the axle. I used a nail punch to get it started and finished off with a flat-bladed screwdriver that just happened to be the same width as the hole.

6) Remove the three bolts that hold lower A-arm to hub assembly (Originally suggested by Beav). They are a roughly triangle shaped pattern near the ball joint lower attachment point. 17mm socket and wrench needed here. Start with the two outer bolts as the nuts can get trapped by the ball-joint assembly if you do the inner one first. Once they are out, do the inner one.

7) You may need to remove brake line bolt to strut (for extra brake line play – I didn’t but YMMV). Do NOT remove the ends of the brake line attached to the caliper and line going up into the body unless of course you like bleeding brake lines.

8) Pull the hub assembly out away from car to get the free space required, and remove axle from wheel hub. I needed to give the assembly a tap from a hammer on the end of the axle, then it pulled out with just hand effort. As you pull out on the hub assembly, you will be pulling the tie rod also, the other tire will swing in, so that’s why the steering needs to be unlocked (and why both tires were jacked up).

9) Guide the axle out, taking care not to damage the bearing seal. The inner part of the axle will not clear the sway bar, but by lifting up and out on the hub assembly, the sway bar lifted enough for me to pull the axle out of the car (pulled out on the rear side of the hub) with no additional parts removal.

10) Check that the rebuilt axle is the same as the old one: pin hole size, diameter of hub where the pin goes, pin length, axle length, number of splines, axle nut, etc.

11) Assembly is mostly the reverse of the above but here’s the basics: Remember to use a new spring pin and a new axle nut. Make sure you line up the hole (for the pin) in the transmission shaft, and the corresponding hole in the axle assembly, before you push the axle back onto the transmission. Look through the hole and make SURE it’s lined up before going further. Now pull out on the hub and guide the axle splines through the wheel hub, being careful to prevent damage to the seal, hub, axle, etc. You should be able to work the axle in enough by hand that some threads will stick through the outer hub. Put the new axle nut on and draw it down enough to make the assembly secure, but don’t torque it yet. Drive the pin back in through the side that has a chamfer on the inner part of the axle. Reattach the three bolts on A-arm (torque to 56-73 ft-lbs) starting with the inner one first, then the two outer bolts. Torque the axle nut (123-152 ft-lbs - I wouldn’t recommend this, but just so you know, I put a large screwdriver in the vent holes of the brake rotor, letting it rest against the caliper to keep the axle from turning while I torqued the axle nut), put on the hubcap, wheel/tire, remove jack stands, and you’re almost done…enjoy the test ride...retorque your wheel lugnuts...now you’re done.
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  #2  
Old 12-14-2005, 08:52 PM
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pavanbabut pavanbabut is offline
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Great, thanks Lee for the detailed procedure. I would be workingo n the axles in the break of christmas. i need to replace both my front axles. I dont know why they both went bad, the outer boots are cracked. Do you think if there is any reason that is making they fail?

thanks,
-Pavan.
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  #3  
Old 03-23-2007, 01:14 PM
cdvs cdvs is offline
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Last edited by cdvs; 03-26-2007 at 04:42 PM.
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Old 03-23-2007, 03:25 PM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pavanbabut
Great, thanks Lee for the detailed procedure. I would be workingo n the axles in the break of christmas. i need to replace both my front axles. I dont know why they both went bad, the outer boots are cracked. Do you think if there is any reason that is making they fail?

thanks,
-Pavan.
The rubber boots fail because they get old and fail. They flex and they usually faill where the most flex occurs. If the rubber was better, they might last longer, but they don't.
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  #5  
Old 03-24-2007, 08:32 AM
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immortal_suby immortal_suby is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdvs
I love cowboy methods and this one sounded great. Unfortunately, step 6 doesn't work unless the nuts on the 2 outer bolts are on top. This is unlikely. The service manual shows the bolts on top and 5/6 of mine are that way. (Gosh, should we have a poll?)

You can get the bolts out even if the bolts are on top - it is a little tricky but all you have to do is turn the steering wheel all the way left to get the rear one out and then turn it all the way to the right to get the front one out. Or maybe I have that backwards.

Hey Earl - can we get Lee's post into the how - to lockers?
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Last edited by immortal_suby; 03-26-2007 at 06:58 PM.
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  #6  
Old 03-24-2007, 09:08 AM
cdvs cdvs is offline
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Last edited by cdvs; 03-26-2007 at 04:42 PM.
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  #7  
Old 03-24-2007, 09:54 AM
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elninoalex elninoalex is offline
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Anyone know if Legacy front axles work on an SVX?
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  #8  
Old 03-24-2007, 10:12 AM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by immortal_suby
Hey Earl - can we get Lee's post into the how - to lockers?
Yes, I am working on doing some edits and will put it into the How-To Docs.
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2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951
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  #9  
Old 03-25-2007, 12:26 AM
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It is now in the How-To Docs.
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1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739
1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831
1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680
1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229
1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car)
1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913
1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164
1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176
1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215
1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525
1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624
1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961
1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855
1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872
1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097
2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951
1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420

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  #10  
Old 03-26-2007, 11:53 AM
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Hocrest Hocrest is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by elninoalex
Anyone know if Legacy front axles work on an SVX?
Yes.

I just blew out one of my Legacy axles the other week and installed an old SVX axle I had lying around.
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Old 03-26-2007, 03:04 PM
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ensteele ensteele is offline
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Originally Posted by Hocrest
Yes.

I just blew out one of my Legacy axles the other week and installed an old SVX axle I had lying around.
If that is the case, it should work the other way as well. SVX <--> Legacy
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[COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430
1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739
1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831
1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680
1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229
1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car)
1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913
1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164
1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176
1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215
1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484
1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525
1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624
1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961
1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855
1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872
1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097
2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951
1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420

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