Rear Bearings

[simboglide]

Monday morning I will be replacing front CV axles. rotors and pads...and then rear wheel bearings......Any one have the latest torque values on the axle nuts and /or tightening sequence or setting the load? Going to check tie rod ends while I'm there and probably remove the rattly assed heat shields.

[dannmarr]

I don't know how to make a link but look this up:
-Technical Q&A
-Torque specs for rear housing
-Post #4

[simboglide]

Cool....found it..I read where you did your rear bearings,,,on a scale from 1-10 how much of a bych and how long for both sides?

[Tapani]

I dropped the rear diff to get the axles out (done four times, so it's easy )... the long bolt for the lower arms was so rusty it would have broken had I tried it.

To get the old outer races out I used an unorthodox method of gently welding a beam (MIG) around both ball runs to contract the race... you can push it out with very little force.

I made a threaded tool to press frozen new races in. The rest is easy.

Tapani

[Huskymaniac]

Per Nate's advice, I also replaced the hub the last time I did the bearings. I think that is very good advice.

[SVXMAN2001]

Be prepared for nuts and bolts to be seized and destroyed during removal process and getting to the rear housing. Have new nuts and bolts on hanf BEFORE attempting this job..

Ive just replaced every component on the rear suspension to include bearings so all my troubles and mistakes are fresh in my mind

[dannmarr]

If you are mechanically inclined and have the time and the correct tools, it's about an 7. I had a spare hub assembly to play with while installing the bearings. I also had no trouble with the bolts because they were removed on my previous bearing replacement. If this is your first time, have a mechanic do it and ask if you can observe so you know what is involved. This is what I did. Good luck!

[simboglide]

Well, all the rear bolts came out with no issues. (rust really isn't an issue here) Front axles are in and had the bearings pressed in this afternoon...Tomorrow,,, she comes back together!Thanks dannmarr for the pics and torques!! uber helpful!! tHEY SHOULD "STICKY" THAT POST.

[dannmarr]

Great to hear it worked out for you!

[simboglide]

Alrighttttt......she rolls quietly,, no more "click click click" but i still have a binding in slow turns and if i turn tight enuff up a small incline,,it wont make it without "help". That being said..If i goose it a tad at "stop" I can hear something in the neighborhood of a bound "grind?? squeak?? If read posts about solenoid C or possibly some LSD??

[simboglide]

Just did the 10 amp fuse in the FWD slot and the binding goes away...tranny flush with LSD?

[dragoontwo]

Originally Posted by simboglide

Just did the 10 amp fuse in the FWD slot and the binding goes away...tranny flush with LSD?

This has nothing to do with the LSD. Also, you can't flush the LSD. The LSD is a sealed unit. Someone should pop in to advise you on how to free up the transfer clutch unit.

[simboglide]

I was under the impression LSD was an additive.I bought a small bottle of Lubegard, which is what a few posts recommended.add it , run it a week drain tranny, refill.

[Huskymaniac]

You put as much fresh tranny fluid in as possible and then add a bottle of Lubegard (red bottle as I recall). You should keep that in and just resume a normal schedule of drain and refill. I do mine every 12K miles as it drains out about 4 of the 10 quarts. Lubegard makes great products.

Some people say doing some figure eights in each direction helps. I didn't need to do that with my old Outback. The binding stopped after a small amount of normal driving.

[Huskymaniac]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0007Z...sr=8-1&pi=SL75

Again, do not drain this out after a week. Leave it in and then do a drain and refill after about 12K miles.