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battery/alternator troubleshooting
So my battery died without warning, last Friday afternoon. The car started on the first lick when I left work and when I went to re-start it at a service station 20 minutes later, it was as dead as could be. I put in a new battery that evening and drove it about 20 miles without trouble. Put a charger on it the next day and it almost immediately indicated a full charge.
My mechanic gave the car a once-over yesterday and declared the charging system healthy, but I didn't like the expression on his face. Said what I described seems odd, and I agree. No reluctant starts, no lights brightening with throttle, no warning light, nothing. "Sounds like a bad connection," he said, seconding the opinion of the guy who sold me the battery. A similar thing happened to me with a Legacy a few years ago: Stuck in standstill traffic, I shut-off engine to save fuel, turned the key five minutes later and got not even a click. No light that time, either, but the alternator was deemed toast by the same fellow who checked the car yesterday. My mechanic knows his stuff and has never steered me wrong, so when he seems a bit troubled, I'm troubled. What do y'all think? dcb |
#2
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Me thinks..... Alternator wiring upgrade and call it a day.
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86 GMC Jimmy Blue and Silver- R.I.P. 87 Integra RS ~228k miles R.I.P. 92 SVX LS-L Perly ~186k R.I.P. 89 240sx se red ~165k miles Gone and unknown 89 240sx se Black~185k R.I.P. 85 Toyota pickup ~205k R.I.P. 85 BMW 325e ~ Gone and unknown 85 Ford Mustang getting engine swap now! 05 Colorado ~108k Daily Driver |
#3
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When you say "dead as can be" do you mean you had no lights, radio, etc? Or just that it wouldn't crank?
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#4
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No warning light nor any other hint of batt/alt troubles before or since. dcb |
#5
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I agree, it sounds like a bad connection or battery. Any problem since?
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#6
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I actually have 4 gauge cable, solder, and gold plated ring lugs for the alternator wiring upgrade; just one of 101 things I've never gotten around to doing. Seems I read it's wise to include a fusible link in the positive lead. Opinions? Oh, and thanks for the feedback. dcb |
#7
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Cracked plate(s), connectors, etc. or it was just its time, who knows without an autopsy. Battery forensics?
Circuit protection is rarely a bad idea but there are millions and millions of cars with longer, unprotected runs. One fact is that each connection present is a potential point of resistance/voltage drop. Like Trevor said, the wire from the factory will carry the load. However at high output some output can be given up to just heating the wire. In that respect a heavier wire is a bit safer and a bit more likely to deliver the full output to the battery.
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ASE Certified Master Automotive Technician w/L1. ASE Certified Master Medium/Heavy Truck Technician. Certified EVT (Emergency Vehicle Technician) |
#8
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Get yourself a voltmeter you can plug in the lighter while driving. Make sure it's one that displays voltage. You can monitor the battery/charging system yourself.
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David B. SVXipedia @ SVX-IW.COM -- SVX Information Warehouse 2.0 coming...eventually! Ebony 1992 SVX LS-L 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro 187k miles RIP (Rust In Pieces) 1993 SVX 5 spd Koni/GC Stebro Polyurethane bushings still available! |
#9
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Similar thing happened to me yesterday. The battery was old enough for this to be about time. I think the recent higher afternoon temperatures finally killed it.
I was running around, and had already made four stops. When I went to leave the 4th store, I turned the key to ACC, got the radio, but when I turned to ON everything went out -- even the clock reset. With the door open, back at ACC I got the "key in with door open" chime. Water was down a little in three of the cells. I filled them back up. We'll see what happens today, but I'm planning to shop for a new battery. Any recommendations?
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David C. 1996 Laguna Blue Pearl SVX L AWD See my home page for SVX radio install/removal instructions and wiring harnesses |
#10
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dcb |
#11
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Optima red top is one Ive seen th most in various lockers and such, but its a rather expensive one i think
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86 GMC Jimmy Blue and Silver- R.I.P. 87 Integra RS ~228k miles R.I.P. 92 SVX LS-L Perly ~186k R.I.P. 89 240sx se red ~165k miles Gone and unknown 89 240sx se Black~185k R.I.P. 85 Toyota pickup ~205k R.I.P. 85 BMW 325e ~ Gone and unknown 85 Ford Mustang getting engine swap now! 05 Colorado ~108k Daily Driver |
#12
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Now that I thought about it, the last day or two before the battery was a little bit sluggish starting the car. Old battery was a Sears "Weatherhandler" from almost 6 years ago. So I suppose I got my money's worth.
The battery prior to that was the factory original, which didn't even last 3 years. The car had been on the new car lot just over five months, so that might have shortened its life a little. That one took a little longer to die -- over quite a few days, when the car wouldn't start on the first try I was able to let it sit for a little while and the battery would revive enough to work. I was ready to buy another DieHard, but Sears pissed me off -- they wanted $13 to do the test and installation (it was free last time), and their price on the shelf was $5 more than the price shown online. Did what I should have done first -- went and looked at the review in Consumer Reports (November 2004). They rated the "Autocraft Silver" at Advance Auto Parts ahead of the Weatherhandler for the size needed for the SVX (group 24), with a better warranty (24/72 months vs. Sears' 18/72). And at $50 it was $10 less than Sears'. And Advance did the test and installation for no extra charge. I was so happy I bought two oil filters from them too (second will be nearly free after rebate ).
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David C. 1996 Laguna Blue Pearl SVX L AWD See my home page for SVX radio install/removal instructions and wiring harnesses |
#13
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I've previously done some upgrading of the positive wiring after noting the voltage is depressingly low on the acc line. Using my true rms fluke multimeter and the factory service manual wiring schematics I started upgrading the circuit starting at the alternator and battery wiring. I determined that at least in my case the poor voltage was caused by the ignition switch. If this is the case for everyone else then either our ignition switches are all just worn/corroded or they are the weak link to begin with--in either case no wiring mod will fix our voltage woes unless it's a new ignition switch or a big fat relay with the switch controling the circuit instead of making the circuit. Another thing to consider is assuming my case is also the general case then none of the electronics running the engine are effected. Unfortunately pretty much everything else is. I'm curious to see if a new ignition switch makes a good connection or not but to date have not been motivated to pull apart EVERYthing necessary to do the R&R. |
#14
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#15
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I hope you were pithy. Did they bloviate while you were there?
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