SVX Network Forums Live Chat! SVX or Subaru Links Old Lockers Photo Post How-To Documents Message Archive SVX Shop Search |
IRC users: |
#1
|
||||
|
||||
radiator repair
The wife's svx radiator has a small crack in it in the plastic part on top near the filler neck. It loses a small amount of coolant. I have tried patching it with JB weld and a marine plastic repair kit but both do not stick to the radiator very well and end up separating slightly after the radiator heats up.
Is there anything out there that will patch a crack in this plastic or am I looking at putting in a new radiator soon.
__________________
Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
#2
|
||||
|
||||
Try some high heat resistant silicone caulk 500 degrees. Radiator lists for $400+.
Good luck. David
__________________
LS-L 92 black top silver bullet-Turned into a 2005 Jeep TJ Unlimited 2012 Outback 3.6R Limited! |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
I just had the same thing happen
Given what I went through, your best bet will be to break down and purchase a new radiator. I had a crack in the exact same spot, the (inexplicably) *thin plastic* top end cap where the coolant inlet hose flares out to 1/2 the width of the radiator. As much JB weld as I tried, the crack simply expanded out from underneath it and flowered open. The day my radiator got in, the crack was about 8 inches wide and had flowered open over 1/2 inch.
Just FYI, after my Haltech and intake/exhaust mods (circa x-mas holidays), I'm sending my busted radiator to Griffen as a template for a custom aluminum racing radiator. It'll cost me 6weeks and around $600 to complete the fab. If you're interested in a copy, let me know. |
#4
|
||||
|
||||
Re: radiator repair
It CAN be fixed.
I'll take a picture of it and put the descriptions and the product here later on tonight when I have time. I had to try 4 different products before finding the right one and method. Sorry to leave a cliffhanger, but such is life... VK Quote:
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
Re: I just had the same thing happen
Quote:
__________________
LS-L 92 black top silver bullet-Turned into a 2005 Jeep TJ Unlimited 2012 Outback 3.6R Limited! Last edited by dromano; 09-17-2001 at 09:57 AM. |
#6
|
||||
|
||||
Radiator repair (short)
I have persoanlly done this. My time is limited right now so this i just a quick step by step.
Look for a puddy type epoxy called quicksteel. Comes in plastic tube (or something similar). Buy it and some sandpaper (medium to fine grade). Drain the fluid out of the radiator to lower than the point of repair. Use sandpaper to scratch the heck out of the crack and surrounding area. Wash with brakeclean or alcohol. This is important to remove all plastic depris AND residue of the antifreeze. Once the surrounding area is all clean, kneed epoxy-puddy. I only had to use about 1/3 of the stick. Do this quick becaus eit will start to get hot and harden VERY quick. (I also suggest using rubber, latex, or vinyl gloves during this process) Apply puddy and push it deep into the crack area and all the surrounding area. This will make a band-aid that will last for years. So far two years for me. Good luck. Chris (PS -- I do not have pictures of the step by step process, but if you want to see the after effect I can post pictures of that.) |
#7
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks!
She called me at work today while she was in traffic with steam coming out from under the hood. I lied and told her it was alright to drive as long as the temp didnt climb. Looks like I'm off to the parts store for some quicksteel and a tube of whatever vkykam recommends.
__________________
Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
#8
|
||||
|
||||
Re: I just had the same thing happen
Quote:
__________________
Down to none |
#9
|
||||
|
||||
As promised, here's my fix. It's held up for 4 hot summer months and 12000 miles, with no traces of leaks. I've attached a photo in my locker to give you an idea how large the crack on my radiator eventually became (12 inches across).
I tried something very similar to the QuikSteel product that Chris has had success with, but unfortunately that product did not work very well for me. The product I used was in a syringe format that I picked up at a local Canadian Tire (general automotive/hardware store), made specifically for plastic radiator repairs. I used my Dremel, cut through the plastic portion of the radiator where the crack was, and made it even longer to make sure that all the fracture was cut through. I applied the product, and according to the product instructions, it does not activate/cure until it reaches 200F. So I used a propane torch, and heated it GENTLY, making sure it heats but does not scorch the epoxy. I find that it worked best by holding the torch about 4-5 inches away, and doing a few quick sweeps across the epoxy, waiting a minute for it to cure and harden up, then continue to gently heat it. This will prevent the scorching of the epoxy. The key here is PATIENCE. It only takes a few minutes for the product to harden, but let it cure OVERNIGHT. If you are a neat fanatic, you can sand this product afterwards to make it smooth. I didn't, and you can see the bulge on the radiator. And the standard common sense stuff applies, such as sanding, cleaning, draining the radiator to below the crack, and flushing the radiator afterwards to remove any debris that may have entered. Voila, and a $400 expense averted. VK |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
Griffon radiator
Griffon will be fabbing a *complete* radiator from scratch for me.
The unit will be a twin core, so those of you who have an aux trans cooler between the rad and condenser *may* be s.o.l. unless you find a new place for your mod. The Griffon core will essentially be twice as thick as the stock unit (imagine the core being as thick as the endcaps). since it will be a close call for the stock radiator fans, I'm sending a FAL (Flex-a-lite) low-profile twin fan unit with my stock core so that Griffon can fab mounts for it at the same time as the rest of the unit. The end caps will be *all* aluminum, so they'll be high-quality units. I've seen many old-school and big-block guys run Griffons at the track, and they look pretty good.Overall, I am purposely designing the unit to "overcool" the car in it's current configuration along with an extreme-duty oil cooler. The objective is to be able to back out on the timing for more power and not tax the cooling/lube systems. FYI - If anyone's not interested in this configuration, I'm requesting that Griffon keep a stock pattern (all aluminum, of course) on hand for anyone who simply wants a better functioning stock-type configuration. |
#11
|
||||
|
||||
Thanks Chris!
It worked!
I tried the sandpaper and alcohol method and used quicksteel-magnum steel and it has held up for 3 days so far - the other stuff cracked the first day. Hopefully it will continue to hold up, if not I'll try the syringe stuff but it looks like this quicksteel will work. Thanks again, I really didn't want to pay for a new radiator right now. This club rules.
__________________
Matt Locker Link 2015 BRZ Limited 6MT 92 Ebony LS-L ECUtune Stage2av1, Z32 MAF, 370cc injectors, TomsSVX intake, BontragerWorks 22mm RSB #003, HID Hi and Lo beams, OT endlink and bushing mods, PWR Aluminum radiator, Harvey's QC shift kit, 2.5" flowmaster 80 exhaust, 17" Michelin Pilot Sport A/S, Poly sway bar bushings, Slotted Bradi rotors, AFBeefcake powdercoated calipers, 97 grill, and a huge set of air horns. 300,000 miles and counting 92 Ebony LS-L. ecutune stage1v4, motorsport 1pc pulley. Garage Queen - sold to Dad in upstate NY 155,000 miles 19 Subaru Ascent Premium - -Hers !. 89 DL 4x4 little red wagon - a.k.a. The immortal suby. 275k R.I.P. |
#12
|
||||
|
||||
I hate plastic tank radiators
Repairs are obviously temporary.
I am working with several vendors for aftermarket radiators. Anyone interested, PM me so I can have numbers for an extimated group purchase/buy. Discount in volume people. And dont think it will never happen to you
__________________
-- Chris Founder/Administrator SVX World Network ECU Tune (stage 1), PWR (prototype aluminum radiator) Amateur Radio - General Class - K7SVX #1 92 Teal LSl 246k (Dedicated SVX Race Car, now with 4.44 speed) #2 92 Teal LSl 125k (Retired, car rescued from a field of weeds) 2007 Impreza 2.5i Special Edition, Obsidian Black Pearl (Daily driver) 2001 Dodge Ram 2500 quad cab, Cummins turbo diesel 4x4 (race car & RV hauler) 1985 Honda VF500 Interceptor (fair weather fun commuter) Going on 11 years of NHRA bracket racing NHRA Div 6 Car/Driver # T654 (site being rebuilt, new name is www.teamsvxracing.com) 2000 1st Place Club Challenge Series 2002 3rd Place Season Track Champion, Import Racing (Firebird Raceway) 2003 4th Place Season Track Champion, Import Racing (Firebird Raceway) 2003 1st Place NW Regional Import Shootout (July 5th) 2004 1st Place Club Challenge #1 (Firebird Raceway) 2004 1st Place NHRA "King of the Track" race 2004 NHRA Gold Cup 2nd place season win 2004 Import/Sport Compact 3rd place season win 2004 Division 6 Summit/ET NHRA Race of Champions finalist competitor (Mission, BC) 2007 1st Place Import Survival #3 2007 1st Place Track Champion Import Summer Jam (Wild Street Class) 2007 1st Place Import Survival #5 2008 Club season 1st place win, Club Champion 2008 2nd Place Season Import Final. 2008 Division 6 Summit/ET NHRA Import Finals (Woodburn, Or) 2009 2nd Place Import Summer Jam (Wild Street Class) 2010 1st Place Club race #2 - 1st place Sport Compact race #1 & #2 |
#13
|
||||
|
||||
Sorry I came in so late. Magnum Steel is the way to go. Going on 3 years with my SVX, granted that's about 5k but still it holds up great and looks well as crappy as the day I put it on. As for replacements, does anybody have access to plastic makers? If so the top can be replaced. I just did it with my XT6 and that has a vertical plastic return tank. Nary a leak in that. Took me about an hour to switch the top.
__________________
British vehicles are my last ditch attempt to keep the nasty Italian thoughts in my mind at bay. So far its working. |
#14
|
||||
|
||||
Chris
I would be interested, but maybe you should start a new thread for a list. I don't know if all of the members will see your thought here.
__________________
. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19 |
#15
|
||||
|
||||
didn't work
i went out and get some wet weld by jbweld for my first try at fixing my problem. That blew to peices so i went and got some of the quiksteel from my parts store and tried that. with not success i am trying the last product i have so far and that a repair kit i bought. It includes fiberglass sheeting and resin to coat on. I will let it set for a few hours, recommended 30 mins at least and give that a whirl. Otherwise i am dead in the water for my radiator. good thing my daily driver still works. anyway, if someone else has suggestions let me know. I used a dremel to gring out the crack and filled it in w/ quiksteel today and it still didn't work so i am hoping this will work.
|
|
|