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Old 09-25-2019, 09:04 AM
johnnbgoood1 johnnbgoood1 is offline
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Join Date: Sep 2018
Location: MORENO VALLEY, California
Posts: 17
Can anyone help me with the removal of my engine

I am looking to rebuild my engine and I was wondering where to start , I would like to pull it up through the top if all possible, thanks, J
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Old 09-27-2019, 08:29 PM
RichardsD RichardsD is offline
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Join Date: Jun 2019
Location: London, On
Posts: 5
Re: Can anyone help me with the removal of my engine

I just pulled mine for Valve Covers, Timing belt and oil separator. I suggest you unbolt your hood struts, you'll want some extra hood angle with the engine crane.

I would start with a fluid drain (coolant and oil). Then, Remove the radiator. Two mounts on top secure it to the front of the car.

Remove the intake piping, and unplug the O2 sensor. You can leave the manifold in place without any issue- but you need to remove the 2x throttle cables. You won't need any tools for this aside from a flathead screwdriver. Then, remove the battery. The manual states you'll need to remove the windshield washer reservoir, but it didn't come in the way at all, so I saw no need to do that. While I did remove the rad as I stated before, but the A/C condenser didn't seem to get in the way so I left it in place.

To start on the engine, begin by unplugging the main wiring loom, which terminates into 4 (maybe 6) connectors. They are all located on the passenger side (on a USDM Car of course), where the engine stops and the transmission begins. They're massive and you can't miss them. They're a bit tough to unplug, the trick is to pop the 2 side retainers out, and then pull straight on the connector backwards. Unplug all vacuum lines, and fuel lines on top of the intake. Also, you'll need to remove the heating hoses, which go into the firewall. A/C can be maintained if you just unbolt it from the engine (the really thick lines on top going into the A/C. However, if you're going to simply recharge the A/C, unbolting it from the engine is easier. You'll also need to unplug the sensors from the exhaust, and the power steering connector.

Onto bolts! The SVX's EG33 is very easy to unbolt. You'll want to unbolt the exhaust, but you can leave the exhaust manifolds on. Each side has 2 bolts that go into the exhaust. Use a torch to heat them first, otherwise that step is going to be potentially quite tough. There are 2x 14mm nuts in the front subframe that go into the engine mounts. Remove those boys. Then, I would highly suggest attaching your engine crane now, or bracing the engine towards the front cross member of the car. Because, once we move to unbolt the engine from the transmission, it will nose dive forward because the majority of the weight is ahead of the front subframe.

Removal of the four bolts that hold the drive plate to the torque converter is the first step. There is an access port on the passenger side of the engine just behind the intake. It's a bit hard to reach, I used a very thin breaker bar, but not terribly high torque on the bolts so it doesn't take too much effort. Use a 22mm on the crank bolt to stop the engine from rotating. Once those 4 are out, you can begin to separate the engine and trans.

The engine is held to the transmission via 2 bolts, and 2 nuts. One bolt goes through the starter, so you'll need to unbolt that as your first step. Then, simply remove the 2x nuts and remaining bolt. Use a prybar to gently separate the two items. Then, assuming everything is unplugged, begin hoisting the engine. Now, do this slowly so that you can find everything you forgot to unplug and do it then.

I've thrown in some pictures removing the engine from my scrap SVX, and from my "good" SVX with a few highlighted items. On the scrap one, the front crossmember was removed, but it didn't make a huge difference. The good SVX had the full front, and removing the engine wasn't a problem lifting it over.

I would also just look at the factory service manual for all the bolt sizes and stuff, but those are your basic steps. I've done it twice now, and having almost no mechanical experience it still wasn't terribly difficult.
1992 SVX LS-L, 2017 OB FB25/6MT
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