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  #106  
Old 04-06-2008, 08:49 PM
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So far I don't wish for a switch. I went all the way to San Francisco and back (6 hour drive each way) and made 25 MPG. Of course I did this using cruise control (which disables Power Mode and allows the torque converter to lock). The way I see it, if I'm on a long-distance drive, I'll be using cruise. If I'm not on a long-distance drive, then I probably want Power.
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  #107  
Old 04-07-2008, 02:21 AM
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That's a good point; any cars that have cruise can switch Power mode off for long distance.

Do all US cars have cruise? Or is it only Lsls etc?

Joe
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  #108  
Old 04-07-2008, 04:14 AM
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Can't exactly answer that question, but I do have an LS and have cruise.
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  #109  
Old 04-07-2008, 04:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svxistentialist View Post
That's a good point; any cars that have cruise can switch Power mode off for long distance.

Do all US cars have cruise? Or is it only Lsls etc?

Joe
I believe I noted it in another thread... all US cars have cruise.
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  #110  
Old 04-07-2008, 05:06 AM
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That solves a problem then. All UK cars have it as well.

The base model in Japan did not have it as stock, but it could be ordered as an option. It's not so easy to know with jdm cars if they have cruise for that reason.

US is good to go, so.

Ground A4 permanently, use cruise on a long run for economy.

Joe
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  #111  
Old 04-08-2008, 05:22 PM
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Alright, after some confusion on my part..... It is completed!

I de-pinned A6(brown with black stripe) from the connector and put it into A4. At first, I thought I had failed and called upon Nomake for support. However, my car was half up on jackstands, so I didn't want to start it. It works just as he thought it would. Put in D, 3, or 2, and you have power mode as long as the manual switch is pushed in. The only thing is, as I pointed out to him, the manual switch is wired directly to the manu. light on the dashboard so when you're in power mode, the manu. light is also on.

So, for those who don't know. To de-pin the harness, first undo the clips on the side. Then there's a flap that folds out. This will allow you to get the pin out after you release the locking mechanism. Now I found a safety pin works good for unlocking it. To unlock the pin, with the connector facing you as it would plug in to the TCU, insert the pin into the big open area as close to the metal pin as possible. You should not get too far before you can feel a little lip. You need to get under the lip, then just gently pull the wire out from the backside, or push a second safety pin into the tiny slot in the front of the connector, and push the pin out.
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Last edited by dragoontwo; 04-09-2008 at 05:09 AM. Reason: Spelling
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  #112  
Old 04-08-2008, 10:59 PM
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Great to hear it worked! Now I feel silly for firing off a PM to ya without reading this thread first.

Getting pins out of the ECU/TCU harnesses is a royal pain in the arse the way it's set up. I end up using the very smallest of my jewler screwdrivers to do the task, and it takes lots of fussing to get the tab up and out of the way so I can pull the wire out the back. Big pain, but it was worth it for what I was doing.
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  #113  
Old 04-09-2008, 05:15 AM
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I usually try and use safety pins when I de-pin connectors, because the fine rolled point gets into the real tight spaces a bit easier. I don't have plans to try to disable the manual light. However, whenever I take the dash apart next, I may try removing the bulb to see if this impacts the switching of the ground. The wiring diagram doesn't suggest that it would, but it would be interesting to see.
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  #114  
Old 04-10-2008, 09:19 PM
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I gave this another try after some cooling off and ironically both wires I was using had separated underneath the wire coating which cause it to lose connection. It works well with the 4.44's, definatly worth it.
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  #115  
Old 04-15-2008, 12:52 PM
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Alright, I had some wire laying around and about 10mins of free time. I gotta say I notice a difference. Shifts in 3 are at about 4k RPM , and D are about the same. I Feel it "Get up and Go" better. Now If I had the time to figure out how to get a button worked into the this. I know the manual Button but again I don't wanna disable that and solutions to that?
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  #116  
Old 04-15-2008, 01:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wikedjuggalo View Post
Alright, I had some wire laying around and about 10mins of free time. I gotta say I notice a difference. Shifts in 3 are at about 4k RPM , and D are about the same. I Feel it "Get up and Go" better. Now If I had the time to figure out how to get a button worked into the this. I know the manual Button but again I don't wanna disable that and solutions to that?
I'm glad it's working well for you.

You could actually get along without a switch if you wanted to; if Manual is switched on [MANU on the dashboard] then Power will not operate in 2 range or 3 range.

If you set cruise on, then Power mode does not work in D either.

If you really want a switch it is easy to do. Run the earth wire from Pin A4 to your switch, then from the other side of the switch, connect to ground. The switch interrupts the ground circuit. You need to use one of the Push once is on, Push again is off type switch.

Joe
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  #117  
Old 04-15-2008, 04:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svxistentialist View Post
I'm glad it's working well for you.

You could actually get along without a switch if you wanted to; if Manual is switched on [MANU on the dashboard] then Power will not operate in 2 range or 3 range.

If you set cruise on, then Power mode does not work in D either.

If you really want a switch it is easy to do. Run the earth wire from Pin A4 to your switch, then from the other side of the switch, connect to ground. The switch interrupts the ground circuit. You need to use one of the Push once is on, Push again is off type switch.

Joe
I think I will do this, this weekend. I would be nice to put it in a nice spot, And a nice thing, I dont want a sloppy button to hanging there :P
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  #118  
Old 04-15-2008, 06:50 PM
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Switched manual button

Thanks to instructions on depinning the connector from dragoontwo in this thread, I put on my reading glasses, miners style headlight, and went under the dashboard again...I "liberated" the A6 pin from the connector (manual switch) and inserted a tinned end of a #18 wire, shrink wrapped outside, connected other end to common of SPDT switch, ran two #18 wires to A4 and A6 on the other sides of switch, I ran the switch over to the area of the test leads near the interior fuse box, and cable tied there. My only use for manual transmission switch to date had been to read codes, so this area seemed appropriate and convient for me (at least).
For some, this may be an alternate method of using the manual button for switching on the power mode, while enabling simple return to normal, and is a reversible mod...
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  #119  
Old 04-15-2008, 07:18 PM
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Glad I could help. Now you've got me thinking about something....
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  #120  
Old 04-16-2008, 01:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by processengr View Post
Thanks to instructions on depinning the connector from dragoontwo in this thread, I put on my reading glasses, miners style headlight, and went under the dashboard again...I "liberated" the A6 pin from the connector (manual switch) and inserted a tinned end of a #18 wire, shrink wrapped outside, connected other end to common of SPDT switch, ran two #18 wires to A4 and A6 on the other sides of switch, I ran the switch over to the area of the test leads near the interior fuse box, and cable tied there. My only use for manual transmission switch to date had been to read codes, so this area seemed appropriate and convient for me (at least).
For some, this may be an alternate method of using the manual button for switching on the power mode, while enabling simple return to normal, and is a reversible mod...
So, if I understand correctly, you have a switch behind the kick panel that sets your shifter button to be either a manual button or a power button. Ingenious!
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