transmission

[James Scott]

HELP! My 1995 SVX AWD has developed evidently an engine AND a transmission problem recently (OH JOY!) After sitting, it runs rough for a few minutes as if a spark plug wire was removed
(sometimes it dies then when I come to a stop). I took my car to the dealer 6 different days, but he said it ran fine (maddening!).

One thing he did notice was that the car shook or chattered upon slight or greater accelerration at times. He concluded that this part of my problem was a slipping clutch in the AT torque converter (also it hesitates to shift - might be valve assembly). They originally said about $3500. plus 400. to install a rebuild. Today they say there is no rebuild AT for 1995 SVX only new one at $5700. plus $400. to install! YIKES!!

Should I go to AAMCO who will rebuild AT for "about" $3000.
Or ?

Please HELP with any info or suggestions. THANKS!!!

[Trevor]

There are several people here who can give you expert advice and will give you of their time. But you must also spend time in givng them a detailed specific description of your problem. State exactly what happens and what you observe. Your description as posted could be associated with engine or transmission or both.

However that said I would have no confidence in the advice you have so far received and would suggest you continue to investigate further.

[James Scott]

Yes it is both an engine and a transmission problem as I stated in my description. Unfortunately, no code is generated for the engine problem (I originally thought the engine problem might have been causing the chatter esp. at 60 to 70+ mph), but since the chatter stops on deceleration and since the "expert" tech said it was the torque converter (and Subaru TECH LINE agreed), a transmission problem appears to explain most of this part of my problems.

Ironically, I take exceptional care of my cars and I had "serviced" the SVX (adding 4 qts. Redline D4 ATF) about a year ago, then about 6 months ago "serviced" (adding 5 qts. D4 ATF). Also, 6 months ago I put the "add-on" AT filter which bolts to the frame and diverts the AT fluid going to the radiator thru a small filter (meant to be permanent). This was a Subaru campaign item that I believe was meant for earlier SVX's which had more failures. I've been told that the AT's were improved with each year or two!(?)

Again, any HELP would be greatly appreciated Jaime

[svxistentialist]

Jaime

Assuming you are right, and there are two problems. The Service Manual for the trans states that troubleshooting for tranny problems should only be undertaken when the engine is serviced and correct. This makes a lot of sense.

My advice is ask the garage what is the engine problem, and get it fixed first. Maybe a MAF sensor or something, or if you are using poor fuel, go to the tech advice on the forum, and follow the routine for cleaning the throttle bodies. This can make a major difference. When this is done, and only then, should they diagnose and fix the tranny.

Remember that tranny fixes tend to be expensive. Do the easy and less expensive things first, and then see what needs to be done at the tranny side.

Just my opinion.

Joe

[cbx-man]

Originally posted by James Scott


Should I go to AAMCO who will rebuild AT for "about" $3000.
Or ?

Hell no! If you really need a tranny rebuild, DRW Transmission is experienced with the 4EAT and is "near" you in So Cal.

http://www.drwtransmission.com/subaru_svx.htm

[svxistentialist]

I second that.

Those guys do know the tranny. Should be a safe fix.

Joe

[benebob]

Well to be honest. I would fix the engine and wait on the tranny until it reaches the dangerous spot. There is no rebuilt SOA tranny for 95 on but the dealer should be able to rebuild it for about the $3200. Granted they might not have anyone capable but my 95 was around $3300 to get rebuilt at a rate of $60 an hour. I'd find a good rebuild shop not a chain. A worker at a chain makes maybe $20 an hour if they're good. That link that was provided has been used by others with success I think. Key is to find someone who knows the tranny and has done rebuilds of it before. Also a warranty would be nice.

[James Scott]

I agree that the engine should be OK first (before AT diagnosis). However, since the problem is intermittent (and it didn't show up on six different days at the dealer!!), they can't diagnose the engine!

It still runs for a few minutes when cold (after sitting several hours mainly, like overnight or after work) like a spark plug wire was pulled out (rough!). And sometimes during that period it stops (the engine stops because it lopes so bad at a stop sign or light that it quits)!

I was ready (out of frustration) to take my SVX to AAMCO to fix the AT first because the dealer seemed confident that the AT was bad!

I'm still a little afraid that the chatter (car shaking) at (esp. around 70+ mph) is not the AT (converter) like they say, but maybe an extension of that same problem with the engine?!

MORE HELP PLEASE! THANKS, Jim

[James Scott]

I forgot to say that the car did not produce (ever) a CHECK ENGINE light, nor was the dealer able to produce any code with a scanner!

THANKS AGAIN! Jim

[svxistentialist]

Jim,

If it runs rough in the morning after starting, the tranny is unlikely to be the cause of this. Sounds more like an ignition or fuelling problem as you suggest.

The shudder at speed likewise is very likely to be a tranny problem all right,but you would need the other one fixed first.

If it's rough every morning when cold, any chance you would trust the dealer mechanics enough to keep the car overnight, and stick the diagnostic equipment on it first thing in the morning at start-up??

Just a thought

Joe

(Jim95 is James Scott on another computer-I couldn't get in!)Joe

Joe - Thanks for responding! Unfortunately, the engine problem is intermittent and short-lived. I took it to the dealer 6 different days (see my entry on 12-19-02) and it "didn't do it"!!! In reality, it does "IT" very frequently (about 80% of the time), sometimes running rough right after starting, sometimes running rough after warming up to operating temp on dash guage, but always fading away after about 5 minutes! Sometimes (about 20%) it dies during this "bad" period when stopping at an intersection.

Like I said earlier, the (transmission) shudder appears now to be separate from this rough running.

The BIG DEAL IS that the dealer got NO CODES and didn't experience this on 6 DIFFERENT DAYS !!!!!!

HOW CAN I FIX THE ENGINE!??
(Responders: Please read my earlier entries) THANKS, Jim

[benebob]

I'm reaching a bit but does the engine do this when its wet? Go spray down the engine (when its cool of course) and then take it for a drive. I remember someone on the ultimate subaru website having similar problems which went away when it was wet. Something about a broken ignition sol. and it got a good contact when it was wet. Is the gas okay no water in it? Guessing not where you are.

I'll try water on the engine - can't hurt. Is the "ignition sol" you refer to an ignition wire coil ?

My gas doesn't have water, I'm sure.

I've been reading different threads about the trans fluids - I assume my AT when car was bought 1 1/2 years ago had organic fluid(?). About one year ago, I did a drain/fill of about 4 quarts of Redline D4 ATF and about 6 months ago I did a drain/fill of about 5 quarts of Redline. When the dealer did professional change (pump in/pull out) about two weeks ago, the (expert,svx- experienced) tech said the old fluid was very dark! I don't know yet what kind of fluid they used to fill.

Is it possible (or should I say likely) that this change to synthetic (assuming the old WAS organic?) could be causing too much slipping in the converter clutch? Could this also have affected the valves associated with the shifting between gears taking too long (valves sticking). Most importantly, could a change back to a Dexron fluid help or even stop the shudder??

Thanks again and Merry Christmas, Jim

[Beav]

Don't get too wrapped up in engine codes, they aren't a comprehensive indicator for diagnosis anyway. In fact at times they prove to be just the opposite.

I also wouldn't start any serious worries about the transmission just yet either. So far everyone here is right, the engine needs to be sorted out first, before diagnosing any tranny probs. Keep the horse in front of the cart...

I would absolutely recommend removing the throttle body and cleaning it and the idle air controller. Both items are together and both collect a fair amount of condensing oil vapor which causes them to clog up. It's natural to almost every car with electronic injection, not just the SVX. Once you do that the car will take a few drive cycles to re-learn its idle procedure (may take 2-3 days to complete, depending on your driving habits.) Once this is done let us know how everything runs. There should be plenty of info here on how to do this procedure - use the search button above. While you have them off you may find it easier to replace the PCV valve (about $6.) It will help keep the intake a bit cleaner and also reduce the crankcase pressure which helps push oil out through gaskets and seals.

Good Luck!

[James Scott]

Thanks again Beav!

I'm in the middle of cleaning the throttle body and idle air controller as suggested. I couldn't find specific instructions on "how to", so I've just cleaned both with a high quality carb cleaner. Neither looked that bad, but I did notice a little stick on initial opening of butterflies. IAC was free to move, but a little dirty. I also replaced the PCV valve as suggested (the old one seemed to be working [it moved when shaken], but I was getting dipstick "pushup" and I just spent $1850. at the dealer to replace the ps pump, timing belt, oil leak at crank seal, oil leak at driver's valve cover [gasket], and oil leak at "wrist pin inspection cover".)
{The parts were about $750. leaving an 8 hour labor charge of $1100. This has just become my most expensive vehicle!!! At $82. per hour labor charge it should have taken over 13 hours!!! Oh well, I guess that's why I'm working on it myself now! Sorry, I started rambling. I'll try to do better (no more whining).}

After viewing another thread reply, I'm wondering if this problem I'm having could be also caused by a faulty coil unit on one of my spark plug "wires"?

Thanks again for all your help!!! Jim

P.S. I also replaced the water temperature sensor (2 wire) tonite.
(this was something I bought when noone was helping and I was desperate - it was $16. I bought O2 sensors also, but haven't installed because they don't seem to be involved).

P.P.S. I just thought I should mention that I bought (and installed just past the MAF sensor) one of those (TV) TORNADO's. Didn't seem to help gas mileage, probably not HP either, but I did like the change it made in the sound of the engine upon acceleration [installed about 6 months ago].