Car Stalling/Shutting Off

[The1One1AndOnly]

Around a weak ago the car started turning off at lower speeds randomly, then it picked up and would turn off constantly, Now it even turns off at high speeds, I was doing 60mph on the FDR in NYC, and the car just shut down! I had to wait to a full stop and restart it. The car restarts right away. But after one episode and keeps shutting off over and over. Sometimes I can drive for half a day and it fine, then all of a sudden it stalls and shuts down. Once that happens it begins to repeat. I had a mechanic check it with the old computer, and said that it was the CRANK SENSOR that was causing this problem. The interesting this is that when I keep guessing it will continue to drive, so I guessed that maybe there is a fuel pump issue. I don't know.

I would be extremely grateful on some feedback, and see what you guys have to say, since you specialize in this. If it is a crank sensor, is the crank sensor expensive new? And is it worth buying it here used?

Thanks
Max

[msvx95]

I would always buy new sensors...crank is over 120 dollars usually...did the mechanic get a code that says it's a bad crank sensor?

My first thought is that your symptom sounds like a bad MAF sensor.

[The1One1AndOnly]

Sorry for the typos, I was short handed on my cell phone…

Repeat:

Around a week ago the car started turning off at lower speeds, randomly, then this problem persisted and it began to turn off constantly. Now it turns off at high speeds as well. I was doing 60mph on the FDR in NYC, and the car just shut down! I had to wait till I got to a full stop and then restart it. The car restarts right away. But after one episode occurs, it keeps shutting off over and over. Sometimes I can drive it for a half a day and its fine, but then all of a sudden it begins to stall and shut down. Once that happens it repeats throughout the day.

I had a mechanic check it with an old computer for the ‘92, and he said that it was a CRANK SENSOR that was causing this problem. The interesting this is that; when I keep giving it gas, it continues to drive, so I assumed that maybe there could be a fuel pump issue. I don't know.

I would be extremely grateful on some feedback, and see what you guys have to say, since you specialize in this. If it is a crank sensor, is the crank sensor expensive new? And is it worth buying it here used? And if it isn't, then what can be causing this?

Thanks Max

[legacyau]

My legacy sedan had bad wiring to the pump this caused the ecu to throw the crank sensor code I'd check you have fuel pressure sounds a bit like its got a blocked fuel filter

[Sean486]

Have you tried running it with a disconnected MAF?

[Uncamitzi]

I just fixed this problem with my car yesterday.. Engine codes were 23 (air flow meter or circuit) 29 (crank angle sensor)

and the old 34 (EGR solenoid or circuit)
I cleaned the MAF with non-residue spray there are instructions in the HOW TO area. I also traced back the wires to the crank sensor they were cracked and may have been shorted out. I cleaned and re-wrapped them and cleaned the connectors. Cleared the codes...ran the car then checked the codes again...the only one left was the EGR code. and the car is running like a dream again.

[Tapani]

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/show...t=maf+resolder

Tapani

[The1One1AndOnly]

Thanks for the help, I'm in the process of getting a crank sensor. I haven't tried disconnecting the maf sensor, I will be taking it to the shop today.. I will mention everything.

The mechanic who checked it for me was not the usual guy I go to, the computer said that it was a "bad crank sensor". I will take it to my usual guy and have him check everything, hopefully I will get to the bottom of this. Will post back.

Thanks, Max.

[The1One1AndOnly]

Question is: If there is an maf sensor issue, does it need to be replaced or can it be fixed, I didn't quite catch on to some of the posts...

[sabin]

They do get dirty, You can buy a can of spray cleaner and try that. if that doesan't fix it you will need to get a new one.

The easiest way to check if it's the maf is to swap in one you know is good from another Svx, if you have access to one.

[icingdeath88]

With some MAFs it's just some connections that have broken, and can be soldered back together. You can open it up and have a look. If you find something loose, then the sensor itself is probably fine. Do a search for "solder MAF" or something along those lines and you should find more info.

[The1One1AndOnly]

Thanks Icing, The computer didn't return any maf flaws. It said bad crank sensor, from what I am able to tell it can cause stalling and shutting the car off. I got someone with sensors, question is, can the crank shaft sensor cause the car to turn off like this even at high speeds and is it worth buying them used, or should I get the crank shaft sensor new for 160$. I am getting both sensors off of a seller here, so hopefully when installed the problem will go away. Really confused right now, cause the car is in a shop and I am not an auto mechanic. Hoping the computer was right and this will clear the issue. The mechanic said that the connections were fine on all the sensors, and a new maf sensor after network discount runs me 319$, and no one has a used one on the forum, so that leaves me with no choice but to hope that the crank sensor is the problem like the computer says. What do you guys think?

[icingdeath88]

Not throwing a MAF code doesn't mean the MAF is not still the culprit. In fact, most of the MAF issues I've seen online do not mention throwing a code for it. I have had my car throw a crank sensor code due to clutching out or stalling, so that code could possibly be due to the car having died for another reason. (Not likely but just want it noted).

How often does it stall? And have you tried running with the MAF unplugged to see if that helps? If it still does the same thing, then that helps to eliminate the MAF as the culprit. You can also try it with an EJ22 MAF, if you can find one of those easily enough. If you do need a MAF, try opening up and soldering the one you've got first.

What I would do (after trying it without the MAF) is take out the crank sensors and see if there are any metal bits attached to them and clean them off. They are magnetic so if they pick up enough bits of stuff they can stop working. They are right next to each other so if one has picked up enough stuff to interfere with it, then the other one should be on the way as well. If there's a lot of stuff on them, then that is likely the problem.

Which of the two crank sensors is it throwing a code for? One of them you can use an EJ22 crank sensor, which can be found cheaper. I would also try rockauto.com to see what they've got.

[The1One1AndOnly]

Due to the holiday weekend I was not able to get in contact with the mechanic, I will mention everything you noted to him today. It is throwing a code for the crank shaft sensor. If the sensor is disconnected can the car drive normally without it (them)? Whether it is a maf or crank sensor.. And the car starts to jerk back and forth and turn off every time I start to slow down to a light or traffic. And sometimes turns off at high speeds going over 40mph..

[redlightningsvx]

Bringing this back so there's not another thread. I've got almost exact issues to this with random stalling at lights and sometimes highway speeds. All fuel injectors are tested good, new air filter, new fuel filter (which helped but still does it) swapped mafs. It can drive perfect one day then the next it can die randomly. Seems to only do it when it's warmed up which makes me think it's the coolant temp sensor. Any thoughts?