axle removal problem

[boostinsidewayz]

i just bought my first svx a few days ago, it needed an axle.

i read through the tech q&a posts about replacing an axle.the axle was snapped right at the hub. i was trying to punch the pin through and was having trouble, a piece fell out, but there was still more left. i kept tapping at it, and i thought i had the pin far enough out. so i tried to pry of the trans casing to pop the axle off the spindle. well the whole spindle started to come out of the trans. now i'm not sure what to do

i didn't pull it all the way out because i figured there was trans fluid behind it. (which i'm assuming is why these cars have this type of setup, so you don't have to drain the trans when you replace an axle). so what are my options now,????
pull the axle and spindle out hit the pin out, put the spindle back in and just install the new axle..
or am i screwed? and messed something up

thanks,
steve

[svxpert]

your confusing me......

<<the axle was snapped right at the hub. i was trying to punch the pin through and was having trouble,>>

if it was snapped off at the hub, punch out the roll pin from where the axle meets the tranny stub shaft. is that what pin your trying to punch out?

<<well the whole spindle started to come out of the trans. now i'm not sure what to do>>

the spindle is also called the hub, thats where the wheel bearing is located. you might be thinking of the axle stub and naming it the wrong thing.

[boostinsidewayz]

Originally Posted by svxpert

your confusing me......
if it was snapped off at the hub, punch out the roll pin from where the axle meets the tranny stub shaft. is that what pin your trying to punch out?


the spindle is also called the hub, thats where the wheel bearing is located. you might be thinking of the axle stub and naming it the wrong thing.

i was trying to punch out the pin that you are talking about, where the axle meets the "tranny stub shaft" thats what i was calling the spindle.

the axle snapped, by the hub, where the axle goes through the hub to the axle nut.

[svxpert]

ok, did you get the pin out? if not, you risk pulling the stub out of the tranny and leaking gear lube. where in south jersey are you?

[It's Just Eric]

...so basicly, the axle stub is pulling out of the trans? I didnt even know that was possible

before anything, Id try to get the rest of that pin out. just a heads up if you planned on doing the other side or anything, the hole is tapered. The pin can only be hammered out the wider opeing. Once that's taken care of you should be able to remove the axle, and see what's missing from the trans that would allow the axle stub to pull out

[boostinsidewayz]

Originally Posted by svxpert

ok, did you get the pin out? if not, you risk pulling the stub out of the tranny and leaking gear lube. where in south jersey are you?

no, i stopped trying once i saw that happening. will the stub go right back into the trans? with no problems?


i was hammering the pin back out the opposite way it was put in. i could see on the opposite side where the pin was beat in.

i'm right across from philly, a little north of the betsy ross bridge

[svxpert]

you tap the roll pin out from the same direction as it was put in. on one side its beveled, the other side is regular. tap from the beveled side. make sure you use the correct size punch, if you use a screwdriver, it will get stuck. should be a 3/16 size punch.

[It's Just Eric]

yeah, its tough to explain...but the wider side has a beveled edge around the hole. The pin has to come OUT that way, meanng you punch it from the other side.

as for the stub coming out of the trans, mabey some pictures would clarify what's happening. if what your describing is what Im thinking, Ive never see that happen before

[boostinsidewayz]

Originally Posted by svxpert

you tap the roll pin out from the same direction as it was put in. on one side its beveled, the other side is regular. tap from the beveled side. make sure you use the correct size punch, if you use a screwdriver, it will get stuck. should be a 3/16 size punch.

so you keep hammering it all the way through. the hammer should never be on the regular side, during installation and removal?

what about the stub coming out?

[huck369]

The stub can come out, it just has a snap ring holding it in, but I believe it will leak fluid that way(but might not, I'm not sure on that)....but you should probably change the front diff grease anyway....
So go ahead and pull it on out, then you can get the pin out on a work bench, where you can see, and get to it easily. then just re-insall the stub into the tranny, then install the new axle, and new front diff grease.

[Hocrest]

Originally Posted by huck369

The stub can come out, it just has a snap ring holding it in, but I believe it will leak fluid that way(but might not, I'm not sure on that)....but you should probably change the front diff grease anyway....
So go ahead and pull it on out, then you can get the pin out on a work bench, where you can see, and get to it easily. then just re-insall the stub into the tranny, then install the new axle, and new front diff grease.

Yeah, Huck has it right. The diff fluid sits mostly in the bottom so very little, if any will leak out.

[lhopp77]

I am attaching a drawing of the front and rear axles. You don't say which it is, but since you say pulling from transmission, I assume you are talking about the front axle.

More correctly stated, it is not attached to the transmission, but the front differential which is the front portion of the tranny. It does not have transmission fluid in it, but has gear oil. Some might leak out, but not a large quantity.

Now the part that confuses me. The front differential has an axle stub that sticks out slightly and the FTJ on the axleshaft (refer to attached picture) slips over it and is held in place by the pin I assume you are describing. IF JUST the FTJ is slipping off when you pull it (after pin removed or out far enough), then you are in good shape. IF the short stub is coming out of the front differential--then you have a differential problem. In either case--once the pin is out far enough you can go ahead and pull it off and see. Just have some rags or paper under it to absorb the small amount of gear oil that might come out.

Hope the picture helps you.

Lee

[Speedklix]

Originally Posted by It's Just Eric

The pin has to come OUT that way, meanng you punch it from the other side.

no, the bevel is there to align your punch, so you're not just pounding on the stub... your blow is delivering force to the pin instead. Makes no difference if you are installing or removing, the punch goes into the beveled hole. Hope that helps.

[lhopp77]

Originally Posted by Speedklix

no, the bevel is there to align your punch, so you're not just pounding on the stub... your blow is delivering force to the pin instead. Makes no difference if you are installing or removing, the punch goes into the beveled hole. Hope that helps.

LOL--love all of these opinions. The bevel is there to align the PIN while installing. Since this is true, it generally means that that end of the pin has been beat up a little so generally easier to punch out from the other side. HOWEVER, it really makes no difference which side you drive it out from--just use the easiest and it is "generally" from the OPPOSITE side of the bevel. Either way works.

It is just more important to have the right size punch and ideally a roll pin punch with the rounded surface on the end.

Lee

[kwren]

Naturally it will only punch out one direction. The alignment on the shaft and the part out of the transmission must be the same when reinstalling the pin. In otherwise you could slide the 2 components together 2 different ways 180 degrees different, when reinstalling the pin but only one way will work.
Drive the pin up to remove it, making sure proper clearance is available to drive it all the way. the shaft can easily be turned by hand if needed.
Get a good punch and a good heavy hammed and smack it. Baby tapping it will just swell the pin.
Good luck,
Keith