rebuilding the 3.3

dieingSVX · #1 04-19-2005, 07:11 PM

i'm planning on doing a rebuild on the top end of my car. i want to use the pistions out of 2.2 turbo, i think, i also think they are fordged from the factory. my question is how are the stock rods? can you resleeve the cylinders? does anybody sell any aftermarket valves or springs? anything anybody else can recommend? also what comperssion does the 2.2 pistons bring you down too?

dieingSVX · #2 04-20-2005, 05:12 PM

is anybody going to help me?

Mr. Pockets · #3 04-20-2005, 05:14 PM

You might get more help in this forum. Also try NASIOC.

dieingSVX · #4 04-20-2005, 05:49 PM

thanks, i guess

mikecg · #5 04-20-2005, 11:26 PM

call Cobb tuning. they know a little about the eg33 and if there isnt anything already availble, they can get it made. I talked to them about a stroker kit once.

svxsubaru1 · #6 04-21-2005, 08:55 AM

All i know is that the 2.2 T pistons are cast, that are in the 1gen legacy anyways. Maybe the 22b pistons are forged?

87f383 · #7 04-21-2005, 12:06 PM

Don't forget that there are 3 different stock sized pistons. A, B, or mabye even C. as I recall... might be worth looking into...they are cast into the top of you block cases under the alternator. Don't know if that is any use to you....but I spit it out there anyways...

#8 04-21-2005, 01:02 PM

The different sizes aren't really a big deal, almost every company has multiple piston and bearing sizes to account for casting and machining variances. Once you bore the block out to clean it up you can just use whatever oversizes are available.

The stock 2.2 Turbo pistons have a compression ratio of 8.0:1. To calculate the effective compression ratio in an EG33 would require knowing the volume of the combustion chamber, which I don't, off the top of my head. In addition, you will have to measure the effective dish and/or dome of the EG33 pistons relative to the 2.2 pistons to get an accurate combustion chamber volume. You will also want to confirm that the pin offset, the ring lands, and the valve reliefs are in the correct place.

I don't know why you'd want to bore the block to the point of needing to sleeve it, unless you're referring to the Honda method of converting an open deck block to a closed deck one. If that's the case, then you would need to machine a custom press-in insert for the block, which seems like a huge PITA.

All these questions point to answers that seem much more a hassle then the realistic end result is worth.

dieingSVX · #9 04-21-2005, 03:26 PM

so what should i do then, i don't want to turbo my motor, high miles, think i should rebuild it with stock stuff and then get a custom head gasket made to drop compression? i know there are a few companies that will do custom pistions for a decent price. i'm trying to freshen the motor up a little bit before i start forcing air down it's throat. svxtasy and i have been working out a good way to do the electronics, now i just need to figure out what to do with the motor.

how do i get a hold of cobb tuning?

drivemusicnow · #10 04-21-2005, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieingSVX

so what should i do then, i don't want to turbo my motor, high miles, think i should rebuild it with stock stuff and then get a custom head gasket made to drop compression? i know there are a few companies that will do custom pistions for a decent price. i'm trying to freshen the motor up a little bit before i start forcing air down it's throat. svxtasy and i have been working out a good way to do the electronics, now i just need to figure out what to do with the motor.

how do i get a hold of cobb tuning?

Head gasket won't work to lower compression, due to the boxer design, the intake manifold won't work i believe.

Do a search on hear for the like 19 page thread on turboing etc... a TON of good information on basically everything you're trying to do.

www.cobbtuning.com

something that i'm doing on my eclipse to get it ready for up to about 25 lbs of boost.. basic rebuild. i'm going with forged internals (probably) and the rest is just gaskets, bearings, seals and machine work (possibly harden the crank if you can, or if your machinist thinks its neccesary) . if you do that, you'll have a great setup for running a fair amount of boost (i'd think with lower comp pistons, say 8:1 you could run 15+ lbs of boost... but that has no factual basis whatsoever.

dieingSVX · #11 04-21-2005, 03:47 PM

well the intake won't really matter, i'm going with a custom sheetmetal intake. i believe the crank in these is forged already, i hear the rods are supposed to be good, the only thing i've heard is weak are the pistons, and they aren't really weak till it detonates. but thanks for the link and the tip for the search.