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  #1  
Old 10-02-2007, 12:17 AM
NiftySVX NiftySVX is offline
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Hard 1-2 shift

Hey all,
My 94 has a bad 1-2 shift, but all the other ones are great, It is usually pretty rough and abrupt. It seems to come and go, it seems better as the tranny warms up, but sometimes not. I don't have any of my tools here but next time I go to where they are stored I plan on breaking out the fluke to check the dropping resistor and the TPS. I searched but couldn't find anything in particular. There are no DTC codes being displayed, but I am thinking there could be an intermittent problem with the resistor that is not bad enough to cause an open or short, which all that will trigger a code I think. I am going to unplug it and see if it drives any different. Anyone have any thoughts?
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  #2  
Old 10-02-2007, 03:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NiftySVX View Post
Hey all,
My 94 has a bad 1-2 shift, but all the other ones are great, It is usually pretty rough and abrupt. It seems to come and go, it seems better as the tranny warms up, but sometimes not. I don't have any of my tools here but next time I go to where they are stored I plan on breaking out the fluke to check the dropping resistor and the TPS. I searched but couldn't find anything in particular. There are no DTC codes being displayed, but I am thinking there could be an intermittent problem with the resistor that is not bad enough to cause an open or short, which all that will trigger a code I think. I am going to unplug it and see if it drives any different. Anyone have any thoughts?
Nifty

The ATFG gives the following possible causes for hard 1-2 shift.

3 Faulty control unit
23 Valve sticking
13 Faulty 2A accumulator
10 Faulty throttle sensor
70 Deterioration of ATF
76 Poor engine performance

These are listed in terms of most likely culprit first, next second, etc....

All can be tested on vehicle, i.e. without taking out the transmission.

It's fairly easy to check your TPS, look up Trevor's How To above. The valve sticking and 2A accumulator, you have to drop the sump. As for faulty control unit, you could check if you had a bad connection to your TCU. Failing that swap in a spare or one belonging to a friend, see if the problem goes away.

Naturally, change your ATF if it looks/smells bad.

Best of luck,

Joe
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  #3  
Old 10-02-2007, 12:58 PM
NiftySVX NiftySVX is offline
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Thanks for the info, another thing I don't have here are my service manuals. It acts like it may be an accumulator, however. Let's hope not. I don't have a spare TCU, and there are no other SVXers around here that are on the net anywhere near me
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  #4  
Old 10-02-2007, 02:41 PM
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You are welcome.

If you need scans or anything, say the word. I suspect you are right. An accumulator or a valve is what I would check also.

Joe
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  #5  
Old 10-02-2007, 06:51 PM
NiftySVX NiftySVX is offline
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So I disconnected the dropping resistor, and it seems to have corrected the problem, it shifts almost perfect now on 1-2. all the others seem the same. This is not what I expected to happen. I think I can narrow it down to about 5 possibilities even without the ever informative section 2&3 book.
1. Worn Forward clutch.
2. Brake band Adjustment.
3. Bad resistor.
4. Accumulator
5. TPS

Anyone have any other ideas?
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  #6  
Old 05-01-2010, 09:21 AM
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Re: Hard 1-2 shift

My TPS was bad causing an extremely hard shift between 1st and 2nd.
Once I replaced it all was well..... amazing how much the TPS actually does.
definitely check the TPS.
-craig
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  #7  
Old 05-01-2010, 09:37 AM
1986nate 1986nate is offline
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Re: Hard 1-2 shift

Quote:
Originally Posted by SubaCraig View Post
My TPS was bad causing an extremely hard shift between 1st and 2nd.
Once I replaced it all was well..... amazing how much the TPS actually does.
definitely check the TPS.
-craig
Holy 2 and 1/2 year old thread comeback, Batman!
Yes, a TPS involves a lot of things. Also, I have 2 different cars with "glitchy" TPS issues. On my silver there is a hard 1-2 shift (don't know about other gears since the high clutch is gone) and an occasional "stumbling" that happens only when the engine is cold and in cooler temps (50F or lower). On my laguna, all shifts are as they should be but the torque converter doesn't always lock/unlock when it is supposed to. No other issues related to the TPS on that one.
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  #8  
Old 05-01-2010, 10:09 AM
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Re: Hard 1-2 shift

Yeah Craig. Goo. Thing you told him 2 and a half years later.


Honestly though, my car is having the same issue so I found your post informative. Thank you.
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  #9  
Old 05-01-2010, 01:50 PM
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Re: Hard 1-2 shift

Quote:
Originally Posted by Freeman View Post
Yeah Craig. Goo. Thing you told him 2 and a half years later.


Honestly though, my car is having the same issue so I found your post informative. Thank you.
Ha! I didn't pay attention to how old the post was!
Oh well ...... I'm glad it was informative to someone
There are so many open ended threads.... the boards would be much more informative if everyone would go back and post how they fixed their problems.
now let me go back and make sure I'm not guilty of that as well!
-craig
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  #10  
Old 05-01-2010, 02:51 PM
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Re: Hard 1-2 shift

I agree. I find the posts really frustrating when people don't go back and put the solution in the final post. It should almost be mandatory.
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  #11  
Old 05-01-2010, 04:28 PM
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Re: Hard 1-2 shift

Quote:
Originally Posted by NiftySVX View Post
So I disconnected the dropping resistor, and it seems to have corrected the problem, it shifts almost perfect now on 1-2. all the others seem the same. This is not what I expected to happen. I think I can narrow it down to about 5 possibilities even without the ever informative section 2&3 book.
1. Worn Forward clutch.
2. Brake band Adjustment.
3. Bad resistor.
4. Accumulator
5. TPS

Anyone have any other ideas?
The strainer, as referred to in my current post re a possible secret fault, could have been partly blocked thus reducing line pressure.
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Old 05-01-2010, 05:30 PM
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Re: Hard 1-2 shift

Quote:
Originally Posted by NiftySVX View Post
So I disconnected the dropping resistor, and it seems to have corrected the problem, it shifts almost perfect now on 1-2. all the others seem the same. This is not what I expected to happen. I think I can narrow it down to about 5 possibilities even without the ever informative section 2&3 book.
1. Worn Forward clutch.
2. Brake band Adjustment.
3. Bad resistor.
4. Accumulator
5. TPS

Anyone have any other ideas?
As we now know, the trouble was caused by the valve body being fitted with the wrong A solenoid. Instead of a normally open valve, the Level 10 body had a normally closed valve, that caused it to produce high pressure at Idle, low pressure at full throttle.
They replaced the valve with the right one to fix the problem.

This was the thread.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=50242

Harvey.
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  #13  
Old 05-01-2010, 06:13 PM
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Re: Hard 1-2 shift

Quote:
Originally Posted by oab_au View Post
As we now know, the trouble was caused by the valve body being fitted with the wrong A solenoid. Instead of a normally open valve, the Level 10 body had a normally closed valve, that caused it to produce high pressure at Idle, low pressure at full throttle.
They replaced the valve with the right one to fix the problem.

This was the thread.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=50242

Harvey.
The correct solenoid "A" valve is one which is normally closed. The above post is absolute nonsense. Where within the quoted thread is it confirmed that Level 10 fitted an incorrect valve and as a result, a normally open which is wrong was later substituted. Level 10 will always fit a N/C valve as is correct.

At the moment I am in communication with Pat Barrett at Level 10 regarding another matter. He will not be happy to hear of this accusation and the matter will not be left to rest.
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  #14  
Old 05-04-2010, 03:35 PM
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Re: Hard 1-2 shift

Quote:
Originally Posted by oab_au View Post
As we now know, the trouble was caused by the valve body being fitted with the wrong A solenoid. Instead of a normally open valve, the Level 10 body had a normally closed valve, that caused it to produce high pressure at Idle, low pressure at full throttle.
They replaced the valve with the right one to fix the problem.

This was the thread.

http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/showthread.php?t=50242

Harvey.
Quote:
The correct solenoid "A" valve is one which is normally closed. The above post is absolute nonsense. Where within the quoted thread is it confirmed that Level 10 fitted an incorrect valve and as a result, a normally open which is wrong was later substituted. Level 10 will always fit a N/C valve as is correct.

At the moment I am in communication with Pat Barrett at Level 10 regarding another matter. He will not be happy to hear of this accusation and the matter will not be left to rest.

Trevor.
Harvey,

Your post was/is libellous in respect of Level 10. Correction and an apology is required and is called for.
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