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#1
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Rear Diff MOunt
On the rear differential mounts i was wondering once you drop the diff to replace the mounts how do you physically get the mounts out of the subframe???? I looked at it and it looks as if they are pressed in there...Please help me with any advice..thanks
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#2
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Re: Rear Diff MOunt
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You might try PMing "Kuo," whom, I believe, has had this experience.
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Randy Johnson 3rd Registered Member 02-21-2001 First Member to Reach 10,000 Posts First to arrive at the very first Reading Meet Subaru Ambassador 1992 SVX PPG Pace Car Replica 110+k 1993 White Impreza L 240+K miles 2001 Legacy Outback Limited Sedan 250+K miles 2013 Deep Indigo Pearl Legacy 3.6R 49+K miles "Reading is my favorite Holiday" Mike Davis -- at Reading VI |
#3
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Otherwise John (AKA Lightning_8669) has replaced them as well and probably has some time saving hints.
Doug
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1992 LS Touring (6/91) - Currently undergoing a five speed swap Black over Claret with spoiler; 235,000 miles; Mods: 2002 Legacy 5 speed, ACT Pressure Plate, Excedy Clutch, Short Throw Shifter, Aussie Powerchip 1992 LS Touring (6/91) Black over Claret with 2.5" setback spoiler; 202,000 miles; Mods: B&M Cooler 1994 LSi (4/93) Bordeaux Pearl; 198,000 miles; Mods: Weight reduction. 1969 Mustang GT Convertible 1970 Mustang Convertible 2000 Ford Excursion Sola lingua bona est lingua mortua. My Locker |
#4
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I decided to let AAMCO replace the mounts as the local Subaru shops really ticked me off and I didn't have the facilities to get the car high enough to remove the diff. They tried cutting the old mounts and pressing the new ones in without removing the diff. They were successful, but it looked messy.
If you have the diff out, then it's just a matter of finding the right sized bolt, washers, and cylinder to pull the old mounts out. The metal cylinder should be slightly larger diameter than the mount fittings on the subframe and a bit longer than the width of the mount. Put the cylinder over the mount, put a big washer on the open end of the cylinder and an exact fit washer over the mount on the other side of the subframe, then put a big bolt through the whole mess and a nut on the other side. Finally, start ratcheting (here's where power tools really help) until the bolt/washer pulls the old mount through. Make sure that the washer pulling the mount is an exact fit or slightly smaller so you don't get it stuck in there. Putting in the new mounts is the same procedure except you don't need the cylinder. I would've done it this way if I had a way to get the diff out. KuoH |
#5
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I did do a couple of attempts to press out the old bushings using a bolt and washers as described by kuoh.
I was unsuccessful. I did bend the washers though . Eventually I was able to remove the bushings by cutting them with a dremel. Now, the new ones did not want to go in either. The seating surface was painted - just a bit suspicious. I had to cut a narrow cut on one side of new bushings, then I was able to press them in with a bolt and washers. Six months later the new bushings are still OK - not loose, not making any noises. I'm not an expert on pressing things, but one thing I can say for sure - this job requires the right tools to be done properly. |
#6
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I suspected that a single washer would not be strong enough, but you could double or triple deck it and that should be enough to pull the old one out. As for the paint, do you mean on the mounts or on the subframe? There was no paint on my bushings, and I got two sets of them by mistake.
KuoH |
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