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  #1  
Old 04-10-2007, 06:32 PM
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Unhappy Problem starting

I pulled a code #29 today (Crank Angle Sensor #2). So I pulled both crank sensors and the cam angle sensor, cleaned them all off and checked them (all three measure the same amount of resistance) put it all back in and the engine still wont start. It cranks and acts like its about to start but then dies, it ran once for about a second or two but then same thing. I know the starters good and ive had the battery hooked up to the charger all day. Im thinking about trying to jump it because I read in another thread that the owner was having the same problems and jumping it worked, im also thinking about pulling the timing covers to make sure the belt didnt jump. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance



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Last edited by odepaj; 04-11-2007 at 02:05 PM.
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  #2  
Old 04-10-2007, 06:49 PM
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check the timing belt might have slipped

check the timing belt might have slipped
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  #3  
Old 04-10-2007, 08:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kwren
check the timing belt might have slipped
Not to hijack the thread, but I hear this a lot on this site. Is this a common problem with SVXi?
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  #4  
Old 04-10-2007, 08:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budbaer
Not to hijack the thread, but I hear this a lot on this site. Is this a common problem with SVXi?
I wouldn't say that it is a problem more than it is in any engine with a timing belt. Generally they last well over 100,000 miles and even when replaced at that point they show very little wear. But the engines are fairly reliable in all other aspects, so when an engine won't start all of a sudden after running normally for years it happens to often be the belt.
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  #5  
Old 04-10-2007, 08:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by budbaer
Not to hijack the thread, but I hear this a lot on this site. Is this a common problem with SVXi?
I've actually only heard of a belt slipping on an SVX maybe once or twice, I just thought it might be this because I've checked the angle sensors and cant come up with another reason as to what it would be. I know im getting fuel and spark, I just dont know why it wont start up. Maybe if I get bored enough I'll pull out the spot lights and see if its the belt tonight, I would really like to get it running again.




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1992 Ebony LS-L w/191k miles Mods: a few and acouple more

1995 Brilliant Red L/AWD w/154k miles Mods: Stebro catback exhaust, K&N drop in filter, ECUtune ST1v5, 4.44, lots of JDM goodies

1992 Pearly LS-L w/154k miles Sold Mods: 4.11, rust

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  #6  
Old 04-10-2007, 09:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odepaj
I pulled a code #29 today (Crank Angle Sensor #2). So I pulled both crank sensors and the cam angle sensor, cleaned them all off and checked them (all three measure the same amount of resistance) put it all back in and the engine still wont start. It cranks and acts like its about to start but then dies, it ran once for about a second or two but then same thing. I know the starters good and ive had the battery hook up to the charger all day. Im thinking about trying to jump it because I read in another thread that the owner was having the same problems and jumping it worked, im also thinking about pulling the timing covers to make sure the belt didnt jump. Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance



Dustin
It does not appear wise to discount the trouble code.

Checking the sensor resistance is not an exactly definitive test. I can find no data on a the specified resistance, but I would expect this to be quite low, in which case it would be difficult to measure for shorted turns on a comparative basis. What exact figures were you recording?

A proper check requires measuring the sensor output waveform with a 'scope. However the low voltage range on a multi meter may provide some indication of an output signal when the engine is cranked. This makeshift check may work best as a bench test by passing a permanent magnet cross the face. An old speaker magnet would be ideal.

Also check for a short circuit from either sensor terminal to ground i.e. body of the unit, when disconnected. Also carefully check harness and connections.
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  #7  
Old 04-10-2007, 09:19 PM
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All three sensors read exactly the same so (admitting to not being very thorough) I just figured them to be good. Also after cleaning the sensors and clearing the codes, its not throwing the code again (I cleared the codes about 10hrs ago). Im deffinetly not saying its not the sensors, they just seemed to not be the problem now. I'll switch the cam sensors from my '95 to the '92 to see if that works.




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1992 Ebony LS-L w/191k miles Mods: a few and acouple more

1995 Brilliant Red L/AWD w/154k miles Mods: Stebro catback exhaust, K&N drop in filter, ECUtune ST1v5, 4.44, lots of JDM goodies

1992 Pearly LS-L w/154k miles Sold Mods: 4.11, rust

2008 DGM Legacy spec.B w/245k miles Mods: Cryotune Stage3, VF52, bushings galore, STi pink springs, Bilstein HDs


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  #8  
Old 04-10-2007, 11:00 PM
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Believe it or not Dustin, check the water temp sensor.
It has caused this problem before.





PS; Thanks Hocrest!
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  #9  
Old 04-11-2007, 12:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by odepaj
All three sensors read exactly the same so (admitting to not being very thorough) I just figured them to be good. Also after cleaning the sensors and clearing the codes, its not throwing the code again (I cleared the codes about 10hrs ago). Im deffinetly not saying its not the sensors, they just seemed to not be the problem now. I'll switch the cam sensors from my '95 to the '92 to see if that works.
Dustin
As you now report that the sensor code is now now no longer being registered, my comments are of no value.
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  #10  
Old 04-11-2007, 12:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by svxfiles
Believe it or not Dustin, check the water temp sensor.
It has caused this problem before.

PS; Thanks Hocrest!
The radiator water temperature sensor, which appears to utilise a thermistor as the sensing element, connects only to the temperature gauge. How could this cause an engine problem? There must be some confusion in this respect.
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  #11  
Old 04-11-2007, 12:39 AM
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As far as I understand it there are actually two temp sensors. One is just for your temp gauge and the other one lets ecu know the motors temp and such. I believe that is the one that svxfiles was referring to. They are right next to each other on the motor.
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  #12  
Old 04-11-2007, 01:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subru92svx
As far as I understand it there are actually two temp sensors. One is just for your temp gauge and the other one lets ecu know the motors temp and such. I believe that is the one that svxfiles was referring to. They are right next to each other on the motor.
Thanks for settling the confusion.

It is interesting that in another thread I have raised the issue of the engine being shut down as a result of excessive temperature being sensed. It would appear that the issue is very much related, i.e. a false safety shut down signal. Worth further investigation.
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  #13  
Old 04-11-2007, 04:33 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by subru92svx
As far as I understand it there are actually two temp sensors. One is just for your temp gauge and the other one lets ecu know the motors temp and such. I believe that is the one that svxfiles was referring to. They are right next to each other on the motor.
You are correct, Sir.
The single wire sensor is for the gauge, and the sensor right beside it, with two wires is the one for the E.C.U.. It can give a false cam and or crank sensor code!

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Last edited by svxfiles; 04-11-2007 at 04:35 AM.
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  #14  
Old 04-11-2007, 05:33 AM
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A new ECU temp sensor cured a hard-starting problem for me. Before I replaced the sensor, the car might try meekly to fire once, then forget it. (However, it would start readily with the gas pedal held to the floor, so this was more of an annoyance than real problem.) Seemed this happened only with a stone-cold engine at a temperature near freezing. I didn't check codes and decided to try the sensor after researching the matter here. Over three years later, I've had no such trouble since.

The part cost roughly $15 at O'Reilly Auto Parts (as I recall they had it for me within 24 hours) and it's easy to replace with a deep-well socket. Could be worth a shot.

dcb
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  #15  
Old 04-11-2007, 12:38 PM
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I've had the temp sensor on my '95 go bad and that was a completely different animal, but I will check that sensor as well. Im starting to think more and more that the timing belt jumped, would it be worth it to pull the radiator out to get the covers off (only asking this because ive got a tranny cooler ive been waiting to put in and this is my main excuse to pull the radiator out).



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1992 Ebony LS-L w/191k miles Mods: a few and acouple more

1995 Brilliant Red L/AWD w/154k miles Mods: Stebro catback exhaust, K&N drop in filter, ECUtune ST1v5, 4.44, lots of JDM goodies

1992 Pearly LS-L w/154k miles Sold Mods: 4.11, rust

2008 DGM Legacy spec.B w/245k miles Mods: Cryotune Stage3, VF52, bushings galore, STi pink springs, Bilstein HDs


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The only man alive who drives three "Subu SVS's".......according to my insurance company
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