Lug nut

[jjanak79]

I gotta broken stud. Well its just stripped out in my rear. Whats the easiest way to do this? I dont need to break any more bolts. Help please!

[MadMaxSvx]

http://www.ehow.com/video_2327338_re...-nut-stud.html

[BoxerFanatic]

I just did that myself a while ago.

Is the lug nut useable, or is it stripped, too?

If the wheel stud threads are just bung'd up a little, I would first find a 12x1.25mm die, and chase the threads a few times.

If the threads are seriously screw'd up... or un-screw'd as the case may be... then replacing the stud is necessary. Wheel studs can be purchased at any auto parts store, for a subaru. 12x1.25 thread pitch, if I remember correctly.

I also recommend getting a wheel stud pulling device. It is basically a conical seat bearing that sits against the hub surface, with a bearing that spins, and allows a conical seat lug nut (just buy a non-decorative steel open ended 12x1.25 lug nut with a conical seat with it.) to thread on, and pull the stud through the hub, once the old one is out.

The other tool that might be handy to have is a drum brake spring removal/re-install tool. More on that below.

I have those tools... I wish I were a bit closer, I'd offer to help you with it.

First is to chock the front wheels and do not set the parking brake. Jack up the wheel in question.

pull the wheel off, and set it aside. DO NOT USE AN IMPACT GUN ON THE LUGS. A jointed breaker bar is nice to be able to swing out perpendicular to the wheel, and just spin the lugs off by hand. I also use that to put them back on.

Unbolt the brake caliper from the hub, there are two bolts on the back-side. It might need some penetrating oil, and a breaker bar.
-Then hang the brake caliper on a wire from the coil spring or something to take the weight of the caliper off of the brake line. Don't let the caliper hang by it's brake line.

Once the caliper is out of the way, pull the caliper off. There are two small holes that are threaded. I forget the thread size... but basically you can thread a bolt into it, and tighten the bolt to push the disc away from the hub, if it is having trouble moving.

Then, you may need to disassemble the drum brake shoe assembly, and the ABS tone ring, to gain access to the back side of the hub. If your car doesn't have ABS, it may not have a cog-looking tone wheel bolted to the back side of the hub. That uses an allen hex-drive to loosen a couple of bolts. not too hard.

The emergency brake is a standard drum brake, inside the disc's "hat". a drum brake spring lever is helpful to disengage the springs that hold the shoes onto the assembly. You can also fudge with a big screwdriver, but be careful, those springs are tight, and have to be tight again when you put them back on... The shoes can just hang down once they are disengaged, you just need the space to have access to the back side of the hub, to push the wheel stud out.

Once the hub is cleared of obstacles in front and behind... take a nice big hammer and tap the end of the damaged stud to push it inward, out of the hub face. It is a press fit, and will take a lot of tapping. The heavier the hammer, the better. I used a 5lb mason's sledge, which is a sledge head on a short little handle. You'll see the wheel stud push back... and once you pass a certain point of friction fit, it will be loose, and you can just pull it out... I had to work it around a little bit to get it out of the drum brake area... but it will work. I had the ABS tone wheel still hanging around the axle shaft in that area, so it took a little maneuvering.

The new stud goes in to the hole, even if the splines are different between the new stud, and the one you tapped out, the splines will cut and friction fit into the hub.

Here is where I used the bearing tool. Feed the wheel stud through the open hole, and through the bearing tool, with the bearing face toward the hub face, the bevelled cone seat outward. Thread the cone seat lug nut onto the thread, and into the seat of the bearing tool. Try to keep the wheel stud as perpendicular to the hub face as possible.

Use your wheel lug wrench, or breaker bar to slowly and methodically tighten the lug nut. the nut and bearing tool will spin, and the threads should pull the wheel stud into the hub. Tighten until the "head" of the stud is tight against the back of the hub, just like all of the others.

Then it is just a matter of re-assembly. The ABS tone ring goes back on, which doesn't require a lot of torque. (The torque values are probably listed in the downloadable shop manual that somebody around here has linked in their signature...)

The e-brake gets re-assembled, with the bracket above, and the star-wheel mechanism below. Spring quarter turn fasteners hold the shoes in place, and then the springs from the shoes to the top post. All bendix drum assemblies pretty much work mostly the same... this one is smaller and simpler, without the hydraulic cylinder, since the disc bit is the main hydraulic brake.

Once the brake and ABS stuff is re-assembled, the disc can go back on the hub, and the caliper can be re-mounted, and the wheel can be re-installed.

Again, manually thread the lugs. The SVX lugs seem susceptible to cross-threading, and will eat wheel studs, if they are forced on, and can break the stud when forced back off again. Manual thread and spin-on, then torque-wrench tighten to ~85 ft.lbs.

Re-check the lug torque after a few drives, to re-tighten if the assembly settles, or thermal expansion loosens the lugs.

[jjanak79]

Its not to bad, but the lug nut is pretty damaged inside