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#1
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Main relay
Im trying to find the main relay to check the resistance b/w the ECU and Main relay to see if its the bypass solenoid thats bad or something in the wiring. If you can tell me what/ where the main relay is that would be greatly appreciated.
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#2
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bumpitty bump
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#3
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Quote:
Under the dash, right side of the steering column, small one is the fuel pump relay, next to that is the main relay. Left side of the column is the turn/hazard relay. All the best. Harvey.
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One Arm Bloke. Tell it like it is! 95 Lsi. Bordeaux Pearl, Aust. RHD.149,000Kls Subaru BBS wheels. 97 Liberty GX Auto sedan. 320,000Kls. 04 Liberty 30R Auto Premium. 92.000kls. |
#4
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fantastic i thought that was the relay location but wasnt sure if it was one of those two...Ill check readings tonight and see what comes up. I appreciate the help
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#5
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:(
Damn...i've got power to the relay...I've got power to the ecu the resistance checks in good at the relay. When i check for resistance from the ecu to the connector at the solenoid im getting .7 ohms on the first check and 1.0-1.1 ohms on the second terminal it tells me to check. It specifies that there should be no resistance whatsoever. If there is it says to repair or replace the connector.?? The connector and wires look absolutely fine all the way back to the junction block on the passenger side of the engine. Im going to try and clean the connector with electrical parts cleaner but im doubting that this is going to work. Any suggestions as to what to do are greatly appreciated seeing as i now have no vehicle since im not putting the svx back together till this is straightened out. I appreciate all help that is offered.
Last edited by want-a-fast-svx; 02-10-2006 at 03:20 PM. |
#6
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If you describe the symptoms of the problem you are trying to solve, some of our (much more knowledgable than me) friends might be able to give you some pointers.
Dan |
#7
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Basically i've been throwing a code 24 for about a year now at this point tried a new (used) solenoid that had the same resistance readings as the original. I've checked all power supplies per the shop manual and all the wiring looks to be in tact. I'm not supposed to be getting any resistance at all when i check from the ecu to the connector and i am getting around .7 ohms. I believe that my dmm leads might be causing a slightly higher reading b/c they are not reading accurate compared to another meter i have or when i put the wire directly into the spots for the leads on the meter. Basically the problem with the car is that it has absolutely no power and erroneous idling and random stalling. Power delivery is very abrupt and sudden at aprox. 3500-4000rpms. Below this it runs/sounds and drives like crap. I;ve pulled the wire completely out of the connector and at the junction block and the wire alone is coming up with .6 ohms of resistance. Again the shop manual says there is supposed to be zero. Any and all help is greatly appreciated .
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#8
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The leads in the multi-meter, and the soundness of your lead connections to the terminals will give you an ohm of resistance easily.
Have you checked the actual bypass solenoid to see if it's sticking?
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#9
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Afterthought: That solenoid only affects idling as I understand what the service manual says. Once you press the accelerator, it no longer performs any functions.
__________________
Robert Is Bush in jail yet? (Looks frantically at watch, then back up) How about now? Now? Come onnnnnn...... Someone freeze me until January, this wait is killing me. Update: 09 January, and still not in jail! Wassup?? 1992 Teal LS-L - 160k (Now new and improved with perfect paint!) |
#10
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hmmm....
1st) If i have the leads connected to each other and dont move them at all, and they are sitting on the bench on resistance. Im getting .6ohms alternating actually between .5 and .6 Does this sound like abnormally high resistance to you? I thought it should be in the .1 range. 2nd) If the bypass control is only controlled at idle do you think having sever crank walk could be the reason for lack of power below 3500 rpms? I would assume it would cause some problems but this feels like its running on 5 cylinders almost. No missing just really lacks power. 3rd) I cleaned the crap out of the solenoid with eletrcial parts cleaner last time i took it off but i will take it off again and see what the condition of it is. 4) I' sanded the grounds on the back of the intake manifold and the connection area as well just to be on the safe side even though they looked fine. Could a bad ground around the battery be causing this? I have noticed there is some rust under the battery which im gonna attack now with the sander and dremmel. Im really stumped on this and definitely appreciate all the help from you all so far. Hopefully with you all i can finally figure this thing out. |
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