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#16
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cool. What are they made of, just straight up steel or something else?
If I could get a bunch made, would anyone be interested? (I know a guy)
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-Chris '94 ebony pearl, with orange "silicone" hoses, painted beauty cover, Tom's Intake, Dayles Cold air intake; with HKS mega suction foam air filter, 3in header back exhaust, STI ground wires, euro front fascia, euro front grill, reactive 17in wheels, Nitto Invo's, Drilled and slotted rotors, stainless break lines, Koni strut inserts, Drop springs, 5MT, shotshifter, Clutchmasters clutch, ACT prolite flywheel, EL Glow gauges, The ECUTune stage 2. To Do: Cams, port and polish, etc. |
#17
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Strut towers = integrated, more or less, into the firewall.
If you dig bling, it's something to do. If you're doing it for performance, your money is better spent elsewhere!
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Disclaimer: The above post is on the internet. |
#18
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Quote:
I'd be interested in sways if you can get em made, depending on price.
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-Craig 94 LSi 5spd Barcelona Red, 14Xk miles. Full custom exhaust (Stebro cat-back, custom rest of the way forward) 8000K HID kit from Tom (SVXfiles), Energy Suspension front sway bar bushings, Non-Droopy visors, Race Concepts C/D + Dimpled Rotors, Axxis Ultimate pads,SS brake lines, Bontrager Works #009 (or something like that), stripped interior. (up next) Full cage, fuel cell, 327 swap |
#19
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The anti-roll bar thing is a foregone conclusion; I'd buy a rear one in a heartbeat.
The strut tower braces? Not so much.
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Disclaimer: The above post is on the internet. |
#20
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i didn't do anything with strut braces, only sway bar, spring blocks, and top hat urathane filling. please read begining of thread. i do agree though that strut braces would be better suited one of the last upgrades i would do if i were racing.
Last edited by lilbrudder; 04-26-2008 at 02:22 PM. |
#21
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black beast did mention strut braces. please read post 13 of thread.
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Disclaimer: The above post is on the internet. |
#22
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Yes I did mention them, however I meant the sway bars for the to be made.
__________________
-Chris '94 ebony pearl, with orange "silicone" hoses, painted beauty cover, Tom's Intake, Dayles Cold air intake; with HKS mega suction foam air filter, 3in header back exhaust, STI ground wires, euro front fascia, euro front grill, reactive 17in wheels, Nitto Invo's, Drilled and slotted rotors, stainless break lines, Koni strut inserts, Drop springs, 5MT, shotshifter, Clutchmasters clutch, ACT prolite flywheel, EL Glow gauges, The ECUTune stage 2. To Do: Cams, port and polish, etc. |
#23
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I have a buddy that works at a machine/ metal shop. He has offered to do alot of my stuff. but this is the first thing that his company would make for me. I will see how much they are to make and get back to you guys.
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-Chris '94 ebony pearl, with orange "silicone" hoses, painted beauty cover, Tom's Intake, Dayles Cold air intake; with HKS mega suction foam air filter, 3in header back exhaust, STI ground wires, euro front fascia, euro front grill, reactive 17in wheels, Nitto Invo's, Drilled and slotted rotors, stainless break lines, Koni strut inserts, Drop springs, 5MT, shotshifter, Clutchmasters clutch, ACT prolite flywheel, EL Glow gauges, The ECUTune stage 2. To Do: Cams, port and polish, etc. |
#24
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spring block spacers
Been using these on my baby for 12 years - have to check that cable-ties are not broken every now & then, gave me approx 1 inch increase in front & rear, got to get the wheel re-alignment done after fitting them.
Check out "two 95s" in the down-under folder my red 95 "1 OF 1" is the one to check out. regards Steve |
#25
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spring blocks
i got some today and threw them in, first one on each wheel and i test drove it, it felt pretty good. then i decided to just put 2 in each back wheel and none in the front. i havent tried this out yet though. i just had a few questions about them.
first off: placement. does it matter where you put them (top, bottom, or middle of spring)? if it does, how does each place change? second: number of blocks used. how does it effect things if you use 2 on each wheel or just one on each wheel? which would be better? thanks for any help, since im doing this i wanted to get the best performance i could out of this. just seeing what is best!
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1992 silver/black LSL - 142,xxx miles power mode switch, ecu crush, intake silencer removal, ecutune, B&M transmission cooler 1971 toyota landcruiser - project.... someday |
#26
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spacer blocks
I have used 2 on each corner - wind them as far as possible to the spring extremes, that way it will make the spring "seem" shorter to the struts - gives stiffer ride (less movement) even with car sitting higher - get the wheels aligned otherwise you will risk uneven wear etc...
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#27
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Other direction?
Anyone tried clamps? I've heard of people using these before - I think the SVX sits too high, especially in the front, so there's no way I'm throwing blocks in, even if it makes it handle better. But I've heard of putting spring clamps on to tighten the ratio up too.
__________________
-Craig 94 LSi 5spd Barcelona Red, 14Xk miles. Full custom exhaust (Stebro cat-back, custom rest of the way forward) 8000K HID kit from Tom (SVXfiles), Energy Suspension front sway bar bushings, Non-Droopy visors, Race Concepts C/D + Dimpled Rotors, Axxis Ultimate pads,SS brake lines, Bontrager Works #009 (or something like that), stripped interior. (up next) Full cage, fuel cell, 327 swap |
#28
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i like how the svx sits higher with the blocks, actually thats pretty much the entire reason i put them on. i wanted it to have a little more ground clearance since i live on some rough roads. also i live on a VERY windy road, so the extra handling will be good.
for now i think ill just leave the back ones in and wait until i can get an alignment to do the fronts which will probably be next month sometime. by the way, what are clamps? ive never seen any i dont think.
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1992 silver/black LSL - 142,xxx miles power mode switch, ecu crush, intake silencer removal, ecutune, B&M transmission cooler 1971 toyota landcruiser - project.... someday |
#29
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i only use one on each corner, fronts are at bottom of spring/ rears are at top of spring, and i don't have them wedged in.
i jacked the car up to put them in about 3 inches from where they would start to wedge, and wired them to the spring(so they can't slide or fall out) the farther you wedge them in the more ground clearance you will get but with less spring stiffening feeling. if you use 2 on each corner, be sure to drill holes in them so you can wire them up or you will likely loose one. BTW AutoZone had the small blocks that i used for $5. |
#30
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spring clamps are sorta like the cable clamps i used for my twin RSB but are clamped on two spring coils then tightened all the way together. pretty much the same stiffening concept (removing amount of effective spring) but opposite approch, creating lowering effect(decreased ride hight). now there's something for everyone!
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