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#1
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Timing Belt How Too's
Anyone know or have the directions in replacing the ole timing belt?
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#2
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Yep
Wheels
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. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19 |
#3
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#4
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Here are my suggestions and general overview of the procedure. First, how many miles are on your waterpump? If it's close to or over 100k, then seriously consider replacing it while you're doing the belt. And if you're replacing the waterpump, you might as well replace the thermostat and radiator hoses too. Next, are there signs of oil leakage at the bottom of the timing belt covers? If so, consider doing the cam and crank seals as well.
Once you have ALL the parts you plan to replace, you can begin the process by first draining the radiator and disconnecting the radiator hoses and overflow tube. Then disconnect and find a way to close off the ends of the tranny hoses so your ATF doesn't drain out or get contaminated. Next remove the 4 bolts to the upper radiator retainer brackets and remove the radiator from the car. Next you should remove the charcoal canister bracket on the passenger side as it tends to get in the way of removing the timing belt cover. Then remove the two accessory belts and the PS pump bracket and AC belt tensioner. Now you'll probably need some help to remove the crank pulley as it is usually on very tight. There are various methods of holding the pulley still while you loosen the bolt without stressing the rubber between the inner and outer parts of the pulley, but I took the easy way and used a strap wrench anyway. With those items out of the way, you can begin to carefully loosen the bolts to the left and right timing belt covers. Go slow as these have a tendency to rust to the nuts, which are just set into the back cover and break the plastic. If you break too many of these, you'll have a problem tightening the cover back down. Once all the covers are off, you can try and slide the belt off one of the idler pulleys, or just loosen the tensioner bolts and remove the tensioner since it has to come off later anyway. Now you can either go on to replace the other parts like the waterpump and seals or start aligning the pulleys in preparation to installing the new belt. Get a large C-clamp and compress the timing belt tensioner down to where you can lock it in place with a small allen wrench, making sure that the bent end is pointed away from the engine so you can pull it out later, then reinstall the tensioner. Next, slide the new belt on and align the crank and two cam marks on the belt with the corresponding marks on the pulleys. Once you're sure the timing marks are aligned properly, pull out the pin on the tensioner. At this point, you may want to put on the crank pulley and test start the engine to make sure you got the timing marks aligned properly. It will save you tons of second guessing and wasted time reinstalling and removing everything later. You don't need the accessory belts to start the engine, just don't let it run for more than a few seconds. Once you're sure the engine is running properly, you can reinstall the covers and everything else in reverse order. After reconnecting all the hoses, refill the radiator until the coolant is up to the neck of the radiator, which should between 1.5 to 2 gallons. Then start the car and let it idle while you look for any leaks in the hoses. KuoH |
#5
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The dealer mentioned that the crank seals needed to be replaced. Therfore It look as if they will do the timing belt!
Thanks for doing that all up Kuoh |
#6
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Don't you need to bring the timing mark to 0 deg on the compressions stroke? This should align all cam/crank marks to the notch on the timing belt cover, no? The new belt will have all kinds of marks that will need to match the crank and cam pulleys. At least this is what I saw from the 2.2 timing belt swap.
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If it ain't broken it, doesn't have enough features!!! '92 SVX LSL '03 4Runner '96 FZJ80 Landcruiser '90 Mercedes 300E |
#7
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Hmm... If you haven't seen this diagram.
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#8
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Thanks Boone. I had not seen that before.
John - have you seen a how-to on this yet? If not, I will try to get you one.
__________________
. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19 |
#9
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Got it! Thanks Everyone!
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