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  #46  
Old 04-13-2009, 05:23 PM
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Re: FRESH START: Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration

Quote:
Originally Posted by Johnybeas View Post
I am however, interested in getting a newer nicer wiring harness for in between my battery and alternator and all the areas mentioned in this thread.
A legitimate question: Why?
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  #47  
Old 04-18-2009, 07:10 PM
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Re: FRESH START: Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration

Quote:
Originally Posted by LetItSnow View Post
A legitimate question: Why?
My ancient wiring harness is brittle worn and has shorted a few times on me and had to be cleaned up and protected to keep it from dying. Id love to upgrade the thing, and get another 17 years out of it
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  #48  
Old 06-04-2009, 01:19 PM
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Re: FRESH START: Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration



View of wiring with plastic Channel removed. These four wires all originally ran inside the channel .





.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Alternator wiring 11.jpg (186.5 KB, 6753 views)
File Type: jpg Alternator wiring 22.jpg (127.7 KB, 6771 views)
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Subaru Ambassador

1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001

My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX .

.
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  #49  
Old 06-04-2009, 09:35 PM
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Re: FRESH START: Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration

I am in the process of reconfiguring the wiring upgrade, mainly for esthetics.

Changing grounding points for a more solid connection, some wire rerouting. Changing wires to 4 gauge Kolossus Flexs Kable (which electrically is closer to 3 gauge)
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KFX4BK

Cleaner install than system seen at Reading. Photos coming soon.

This is the last reconfiguration and will be perfect!

.
__________________
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Subaru Ambassador

1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001

My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX .

.
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  #50  
Old 06-04-2009, 09:39 PM
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Re: FRESH START: Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration

I am in the process of reconfiguring the wiring upgrade, increased performance and esthetics.

Changing grounding points for a more solid connection, some wire rerouting. Changing all power and ground wires to 4 gauge Kolossus Flexs Kable (which electrically is closer to 3 gauge) Photo below has my old streetwires on the left and the new replacement on the right.



http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDe...?prodID=KFX4BK

Also available on Ebay

Cleaner install than system seen at Reading. Photos coming soon.

This is the last reconfiguration and will be perfect!

.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg StreetWires vs. Knukonceptz.jpg (103.0 KB, 1283 views)
__________________
.
Subaru Ambassador

1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001

My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX .

.

Last edited by svxcess; 06-12-2009 at 06:15 AM.
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  #51  
Old 06-09-2009, 02:07 AM
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Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration Writeup WITH PHOTOS

As promised, I finished the how-to writeup on the NEW alternator wiring configuration, with lots of new photographs.

Also includes a list of materials, prices and links on where to get them... and finally, a compilation of the various test results on my car going back to 2001.

This configuration is finally finished to my complete satisfaction. A long and enjoyable journey, not without problems though. Now onto other things.

.
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Subaru Ambassador

1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001

My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX .

.

Last edited by svxcess; 12-03-2018 at 10:34 PM.
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  #52  
Old 06-12-2009, 06:22 AM
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Re: FRESH START: Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration

.

Alternator Testing Procedure 1996 Subaru SVX


Using a 12V power socket with two battery clamps at the other end, I connected the socket directly to the POS and NEG terminals of my battery and plugged in my Nordskog digital voltmeter. The battery had the additional, upgraded 4 gauge power and ground wires attached.
I believe that by connecting the meter as close to the alternator as possible, I would get the most accurate readings. Since there is only one wire directly from the alternator output terminal to the battery, this would be the optimum location for testing.

Next, start the car with all accessories off and check the voltage level. It should be between 13.5 and 15.1 volts. (it depends on your make and model of car) My particular installation gives me a 14.4V reading (cold condition)

The main thing I am looking for is a drop in voltage. Once I hit around 12.5V, the alternator is not going to produce any additional amperage.

The next thing I do is turn on one accessory at a time. I also have a chart of the fuse rating for each accessory that I use. I keep turning on accessories and adding up the fuse ratings until the voltage falls to 12.5V

If my electric cooling fans are on, I add an additional 25A for these, and an additional 10 amps for the battery. Here are the fuse ratings for my car:

10A....Battery -10A
25A....Cooling fans (at startup)
30A....Headlights
10A....High Beams
10A....Tail lights
20A....Brake lights
10A....Air Conditioning
15A....A/C Fans
20A....Rear Defroster
20A....Heated Mirrors
15A....Stereo system

The combined total fuse ratings of the above circuits adds up to 185A

I have used most of these simultaneously in various combinations with my stock 95A alternator and never had a problem. Likewise, I have NEVER blown a fuse in any of these circuits, so I am certain that the fuses are rated at much higher than the actual current draw for each circuit.

So it seems that my electrical system used much less than this, as the stock alternator charging system was rated at 95A at full output and about 40A at idle.

Adding other small circuits (flashers, wipers, etc.) and the total electrical load on my system could be between 40-60A.

The fact that I have had an 80A inline fuse in the car for more than two years without blowing them, both with the stock alternator and the high-output one, seems to support these figures.

Having my 160A alternator, producing over 80A at idle is what this is all about in addressing my original concerns of power in a low-speed situation.

I did all of these measurements at 800rpm idle and at 2000 rpm. This way I tested idle output and maximum.

Assuming a “hot state” decrease in output of 80% of maximum, I still have 70A available at idle and 136A at 2000rpm with the high-output alternator.

.
__________________
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Subaru Ambassador

1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001

My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX .

.

Last edited by svxcess; 06-13-2009 at 12:34 AM.
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  #53  
Old 06-12-2009, 06:32 AM
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Re: FRESH START: Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration

.


VOLTMETER vs. AMMETER

Question:
Which is better for monitoring a vehicle’s electrical system — a Voltmeter or an Ammeter?

Short answer:

A voltmeter, by far.
For most applications a voltmeter yields a safer installation, while providing more useful information on charging system conditions


Long answer:

Amperage is a measure of current flow, so an ammeter is actually a “flow meter” which is intended to measure current flow to the battery (under normal conditions) or discharge from the battery (in the case of alternator system failure).

On a typical ammeter, all output must be directed through the meter to obtain an accurate reading. In this case, it means all the alternator output used to recharge the battery must first be routed through the ammeter under the dash.

This requires a heavy-gauge cable and could present a possible fire hazard. And the ammeter itself must be able to handle all this current flow, so it must have a higher current rating than the alternator’s maximum rated output. The highest ammeter I have found is only 100A; most of them run in the 30-60A range.

All this might be worth the hassle if the ammeter produced reliable information.

The ammeter can only measure the amount of current output to the battery for recharging purposes: When the alternator recharges a “low” battery, the ammeter indicates a high charge rate; with a fully charged battery the voltage regulator reduces alternator output, and the ammeter is supposed to indicate a very low charge rate.

But how can you really tell if the voltage regulator has reduced alternator output because the battery is fully charged? Maybe a diode in the alternator rectifier is failing, or the alternator belt is slipping after it warms up, just as if the battery were fully charged.

On the other hand, a voltmeter works more like an air compressor gauge ― but instead of measuring air pressure in PSI, the voltmeter measures electrical system pressure in volts. Just like an air pressure gauge, a voltmeter only needs to tap into a circuit; all the air (or electricity) does not have to detour through the gauge itself.

Voltmeter installation is easy, quick, and safe: Hard-wiring it into a circuit is simple; it simply connects to a fused, ignition-switched “off/on” source and does not require any modification of the circuit used to recharge the battery or any part of the alternator/ regulator system. By far the simplest way is to use a direct plug-in voltmeter that plugs into the cigarette lighter/ 12V accessory socket. They are fairly inexpensive, and have a great deal of accuracy,

This one is inexpensive, reliable and is a compact battery and charging system monitor. CLICK HERE

In short, any voltmeter installed at the dash will be a stand-alone circuit.

The voltmeter directly measures the result of charging-system performance. With normal alternator/voltage-regulator function, battery voltage is maintained at 13.5 to 14.5V and this is reported directly by the voltmeter.

In the event of alternator system failure, voltage will be low (less than 12V) and continue to drop as the battery discharges. In the event of an “overcharge” condition, the voltmeter will climb above its normal zone (more than 15V).

In summary, there is no chance for misinterpreting a voltmeter’s readings as can be the case with an ammeter.

.
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Subaru Ambassador

1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001

My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX .

.
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  #54  
Old 06-12-2009, 11:13 PM
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Re: FRESH START: Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration

The above has been presented with a degree of authority, so that comment must be expected.

We could have a debate on the question of which is best, ammeter or voltmeter. However as said, the voltmeter wins hands down on the basis of economy and ease of installation. A center- zero, dual scale ammeter, operating from a shunt at the battery, would most certainly be very useful in all respects and possibly superior. However any technical advantage, hardly warrants the complication involved.

Unfortunately measuring voltage at the lighter socket is not an absolutely accurate indication of battery voltage. Any parallel load on this sub circuit, and there are several, could be dropping the voltage, due to the included line resistance.

If you are fitting a permanent voltmeter, do it properly. Run a voltage sensing wire, via a one amp in-line fuse, close to and connected to the main battery positive terminal. This wire can be of small cross section, as a meter should draw negligible current. Voltage readings will then be independent of any subsequent loads and always reliably accurate. The degree of satisfaction will surely make it worthwhile.

A good idea is to observe battery voltage while the engine is cranking, and with the usual/normal level in mind, one can make a good assessment of battery and or starter condition. Eleven volts or less can be expected.

An interesting worthwhile post for sure.
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Last edited by svxcess; 12-03-2018 at 10:35 PM.
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  #55  
Old 06-13-2009, 12:20 AM
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Re: FRESH START: Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor View Post
If you are fitting a permanent voltmeter, do it properly. Run a voltage sensing wire, via a one amp in line fuse, close to and connected to the main battery positive terminal. This wire can be of small cross section, as a meter should draw negligible current. Voltage readings will then be independent of any subsequent loads and always reliably accurate. The degree of satisfaction will surely make it worthwhile.
Trevor,

I totally agree about the parallel loads and increased line resistance. I found that the voltage measurements at the cigarette lighter socket are about 0.9V lower across the board than taking the measurements directly at the battery. I think that the heating element of the lighter has created corrosion and resistance in the wire that feeds it.

Also the wire to the lighter is impossible to inspect for corrosion or a weak connection.

That is why I mentioned the following in the opening lines of my Alternator Testing Procedure post:

Using a 12V power socket with two battery clamps at the other end, I connected the socket directly to the POS and NEG terminals of my battery and plugged in my Nordskog digital voltmeter. The battery had the additional, upgraded 4 gauge power and ground wires attached.
I believe that by connecting the meter as close to the alternator as possible, I would get the most accurate readings. Since there is only one wire directly from the alternator output terminal to the battery, this would be the optimum location for testing.


So the alternator output to the battery was checked at the battery, through a 3 gauge wire run of about 18".

In the future I may just cut the wire from the back of the cigarette lighter and measure the resistance between the end of the wire and the POS connection inside the lighter. If it is close to being around 0Ω, I may just splice a wire directly to the battery for the voltmeter. (I just have to remember to unplug it when not in use as the socket would be hot all the time.)

The easiest and laziest thing to do is use the voltmeter in the existing lighter socket and remind myself that a reading of 12.9V is really 13.8V.


But we all know that svxcess neither takes the easy nor lazy way out on anything...


.
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Subaru Ambassador

1996 Polo Green LSi #216..138,100 miles...SOLD

JFICX8659TH100216.....Date of Manufacture: November 16, 1995.....
Fuji Heavy Industries..Ōta North Plant....Ōta City,. Gunma Prefecture, Japan

In-Service Date: January 2, 1997



"The Pristine Green Polo Machine”
First Polo Green on the Network
First Clear front turn signals, JDM Alcyone hood emblem, rear panel, and BOXER engine cover on the Network (US) (2000)
First 5000K HID factory fog lights (2007)
First SVX JDM BBS wheels on a USDM SVX (2013)

HID lighting (5000K) for headlight and H3 fog lights, PIAA SuperExtreme 120W high beams, rebuilt EG33 longblock, Cometic head gaskets, Phase II flexplate, AMR aluminum radiator with custom silicone hoses, 160A high-output alternator in aluminum-ceramic coated case, new design alternator wiring upgrade v.4, rare factory headlight protectors, refinished JDM BBS mesh aluminum wheels and custom, polished billet aluminum new hex center caps, LED grille mod, R1 Concepts high-carbon cryo slotted rotors, Akebono ceramic pads, Goodridge S/S braided brake lines, Smallcar Stage 1 shift kit, ThermalTech aluminum/ceramic-coated valve covers, Energy Suspension urethane front & rear swaybar bushings, Bontrager22 rear swaybar with QS Components Chromoly Teflon/Kevlar endlinks, "$15.00/5 minute" suspension mod. Hella Supertone horns, Custom stainless steel exhaust system with 2" headpipes, Magnaflow cats, AeroTurbine AR25 resonator /AWD "Bullet" muffler.


R.I.P. 2010 Subaru Outback Limited 2.5 CVT...338,000 miles. Totaled by a 1,300 lb. COW March 4, 2016

2014 Hyundai Avante Limited ...178,000 miles. Actually quieter and smoother than the Outback

2007 Mazda Miata MX-5 PRHT...102,000 miles.
Plenty of parts, service and windshields.


4th Registered Network member —2/21/2001

My NEW locker..I...My Email..I..Wikipedia/SVX .

.

Last edited by svxcess; 06-13-2009 at 12:35 AM.
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  #56  
Old 09-03-2009, 02:49 PM
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Re: FRESH START: Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration

Any chance you'll sell a little kit?

A ready-made link from the alternator post to a battery clamp that can also handle the positive lead for the main electrical system lead/fusible link?

Perhaps bundled with a new voltage regulator kit that has the wiring pig-tail from the VR plug back toward the fuse box, pre-wrapped in heat-resistant insulation and long enough to run under the intake manifold, rather than up on top?

I only ask because I am getting ready to replicate that wiring, and add the bosch starter relay/trigger mod, to make my car more reliable in the charging and starting department.
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  #57  
Old 09-03-2009, 05:36 PM
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Re: FRESH START: Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration

Quote:
Originally Posted by svxcess View Post
You do not appear to understand the exact reason, for including a fuse in the main lead to the alternator. Please take care. You are producing instructions which will be accepted as gospel.

The fuse protects against battery current in the event of a short between the lead, or alternator and ground, as could occur in a head on prang. The battery is capable of creating massive heat. An engine fire is a prime cause of serious problems after a collision.

If anyone makes alterations to original equipment, they are open for a claim for insurance being denied. Including a fuse could be a deciding factor, should this become a problem.

I am being told that I do nothing but stir up matters of no importance. I do not place self esteem, ahead of conscience and honesty. I will continue as always, regardless.
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Old 09-03-2009, 08:35 PM
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Re: FRESH START: Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration

So,

I guess there is no consensus on how to properly shore up an aging electrical system.

The alternator wires, for some reason redundant, and the voltage regulator wires are both baked brittle on my car, and are becoming an issue as the insulation fails. I have already had the VR wires spark to ground on one of the AC compressor bolts.

I have tried to shore up the insulation, but the condition is not improving.

The heat of the engine bay is also a fact, and it isn't helping the matter.

The under-current condition is obvious in the dimming of every light on the car, and brightening above idle. Even if the alternator's under-specification is the problem, aging, and heat-worn wiring is not going to help, and is going to need to be replaced.

Replacement with OE grade is going to wear again in the same manner. It also may not suit a higher output alternator to help solve the energy deficit at idle.

So how exactly are those of us without electrical engineering degrees supposed to parse out of this lengthy discourse, what the proper course is to restore safe, better than stock, and fail-safe charging system wiring?

Is a fuse or a fusible link back in place between the battery and the alternator the only issue here? Is there a specific part that will perform better than SVXcess's fuse, which he was less than satisfied with? What is the execution of your information, Trevor? I understand your motivation, and you may be correct, but I am more concerned with the practical implementation at this point.
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1992 Claret SVX. Rescued from certain destruction, and still on the road, where it belongs. Waiting for a bit of a makeover, when I can afford it.
2005 Garnet Red Pearl Legacy GT Limited 5-speed. - The late great Subaru sport touring sedan.
1999 Classic Red Miata, Preferred equipment package 5-speed. Fun, fun, fun, in the Sun, sun, sun.

Last edited by BoxerFanatic; 09-03-2009 at 08:50 PM.
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  #59  
Old 09-04-2009, 06:49 PM
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Re: FRESH START: Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration

I would just add the fuse... How could you go wrong protecting your system. In my opinion, I'm not an expert, any direct connection to a battery should always have a fuse. If you have a problem with it faulty equipment, get a new one... Like I said I'm not an expert nor close to any thing alike but I still have the since to protect my wiring with one... Just an opinion...
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Old 09-05-2009, 08:39 PM
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Re: FRESH START: Alternator Wiring Upgrade Configuration

I may have found the ultimate fusing solution which would protect the alternator/battery circuit in every circumstance, including a direct shorting of the battery current to ground.

The new fusing option is a slow-blow configuration commonly used for battery and alternator connections and other heavy gauge cables requiring ultra high current protection. The fuse value looks to be 80A to 100A.

It provides time delay characteristics and eliminates nuisance blowing during temporary, short duration overloads from the alternator. It would pass the full 160A of the high-output alternator, without blowing, for 1000 seconds.

In a stock 95A alternator, they would NEVER blow, except in the case of a dead short.

In case of a short, it is capable of blowing in 0.06 seconds if the complete 1000A of battery current tries to go to ground.





As the parts come in, I will give much more information, diagrams and photos. This should be the most reliable and efficient solution available, offering maximum protection.

It even has Trevor's approval (who came up with part of the solution)


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Last edited by svxcess; 09-06-2009 at 06:04 PM.
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