Still can't start my 3.3L conversion

[TomsSVX]

Yeah if things are clicking it is in self-check mode. Usually meaning both of the test leads are inserted into the slots. The car will not start in this conidition. When you have the key turned foward, the only clicking you should hear is the main relay and the FP relay turning on... THen 10 seconds later the fuel pump relay shutting off..

Tom

[Speedklix]

how is your starter wired from the key? is it stock (SVX) all the way?

[914helo]

That's very interesting about the possiblity of hard-wiring into test mode. I will check my wiring again. How would I have done that?

[914helo]

My ignition switch and starter wire are from my original 914 harness. I'm not using the SVX starter or ignition wires.

[b3lha]

Could you please draw a diagram showing all the connections you have made.

[Speedklix]

Originally Posted by 914helo

That's very interesting about the possiblity of hard-wiring into test mode. I will check my wiring again. How would I have done that?

Ohh, nevermind .. that may be a better place to start. Sort out test mode prior to moving forward

Originally Posted by 914helo

My ignition switch and starter wire are from my original 914 harness. I'm not using the SVX starter or ignition wires.

I only asked because when I completly replaced the SVX wiring with my own system I could only start mine with spray or WOT cranking for a bit... had to tap my start's switch wire to a wire in the group that runs with the tranny wiring. It was the same color scheme as the original starter wire, just the next gauge smaller. I never looked for symptoms, because I try my best to "modulate" any modifications and this was one that I simply had to look at the system and deduct... some day I'll investigate what that wire really does

[914helo]

Well I tried jumping it with my large truck battery but to no avail. I'm still confused about the wiring for the diagnostic connector. My ECU pinout shows that pins 12 & 13 of B61 (which both go to the diagnostic connector) should have 5 volts with the ignition switch on. I was showing around 4.6V. Should be close enough right?
My CEL light still (even when checking for codes) flashes rapidly. The flashes go with the clicking which I thought was the fuel injectors, but it seems like it's coming from under the intake manifold, like around the black vacuum tank.
As for my wiring, I've got a constant hot from the battery connected to the backup power supply orange wire, pin 15 B59. I've got a switched hot connected to the two red & white control unit power supply wires (pins 2 & 13 of B59) right after they join together. I also have a switched hot wire tapped into the black and white wire going into the fuel pump relay. The blue wire coming out of the fuel pump relay is connected to my car's existing fuel pump. My starter wire is connected to my car's original starter wire harness, not the SVX harness.
Thanks for your help.

[b3lha]

I think you need a wire from your starter switch to B61 pin 10 Black/Yellow. The ECU wants to see 12ish volts on this pin when the key is in the start position and the engine is cranking (and not at other times).

[914helo]

b3lha, thank you for the suggestion. I tapped my starter switch wire and connected it to the black/yellow wire on the SVX harness. When cranking it reads a little over 10 volts but still no spark. It's not 12, but my pinout says 10-14, so it should be alright. I'm still stumped.

[TomsSVX]

this may/may not be a dumb question, Hav eyou checked to see if the timing belt is not broken?? Also made sure all the cam/crank angle sensors are plugged in??

Tom

[914helo]

The timing belt is not broken and the cam sprockets are still lined up properly. Both crank sensors and the cam sensor are plugged in. However, the cam sensor doesn't 'click' in. The wiring harness connector must have been bumped at some time because it's cracked. The harness is on pretty tight, but when you push it on it doesn't 'click' due to the cracked connector. I wonder if a subaru parts place might still sell that harness connector?

[Speedklix]

Originally Posted by b3lha

I think you need a wire from your starter switch to B61 pin 10 Black/Yellow. The ECU wants to see 12ish volts on this pin when the key is in the start position and the engine is cranking (and not at other times).

What is the purpose of that anyway? I just know when it is disconnected, you gotta trick it into starting.

[b3lha]

Originally Posted by Speedklix

What is the purpose of that anyway? I just know when it is disconnected, you gotta trick it into starting.

IIRC, it's used to test the cam and crank sensors. The wire tells the ECU that the starter is running therefore the engine is turning over at whatever the rpm of the starter motor. The ECU checks the cam and crank sensors to verify that the signals they are sending are consistent with that rpm.

[Speedklix]

Originally Posted by b3lha

IIRC, it's used to test the cam and crank sensors. The wire tells the ECU that the starter is running therefore the engine is turning over at whatever the rpm of the starter motor. The ECU checks the cam and crank sensors to verify that the signals they are sending are consistent with that rpm.

hmm, that kinda makes sense...

Huck did you get that? Or did you fix your issue on Frankenwedge with something else?

Thanks for the info!
[/highjack]

[huck369]

Originally Posted by Speedklix

hmm, that kinda makes sense...

Huck did you get that? Or did you fix your issue on Frankenwedge with something else?

Thanks for the info!
[/highjack]

Nope...I've never gotten it fixed yet....but it is't a real problem when it's warm out...