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#16
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Any CEL's? Does it almost start, or simply not fire at all while it's turning?
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Disclaimer: The above post is on the internet. |
#17
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CEL's??
And no, it's cranking really good but there's no engine vibrations. I mean, it does not almost start. (I know what you mean) It's only cranking really good, the pulleys are turning but no 'bubling' sounds from the engine of exhaust like if it's was about to start. How can I be sure it's a fire or fuel problem? I'm a really good back yard mechanic, but this car is such a pain to work in. I can't even reach the plugs without removing the complete engine. Wathever, is there any test I can do? |
#18
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CEL = Check Engine Light. If that thing has lit up on your dash, you're gonna wanna tell us what the stored code is.
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Disclaimer: The above post is on the internet. |
#19
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just my original starting fluid idea... if that doesn't help then you either have a spark issue (plugs,coil/wire,ignitor) or a massive leak in the intake somewhere between the MAF and manifold.
be careful messing with that stuff in those temps... the rubber stuff shatters like glass at those temps and age. Yeah, I've had to replace half the PCV system in sub-zero temps because of one split hose and watch the color of your hands too, it is easy to ignore the lack of sensation when you get going with your gloves off
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-Mike ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165 Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ? |
#20
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this is what I mean. and don't spray direct in the middle, you'll drench the MAF sensor.
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-Mike ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165 Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ? |
#21
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There is no check engine light when I try to start the car. Well, I mean there's one but nothing unusual.
Every lights turn on on the cluster like every days. I really think my fuel pump is dead (Even if I can hear it when putting on the ignition) Note that I add some fuel anti-freeze, I dont think my gas is frozen. |
#22
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which would be one indication of the starting fluid helping you start... it is sort of a required step, whether you want to diagnose or just get it going. the other is to pull the line at the filter and check for gas squirting out when you turn the key to "ON" only!
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-Mike ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165 Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ? |
#23
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Hi Speedkilx,
you're right, I'll go buy some starting spray tomorrow and try to start it with the car plugged on my boost pack. To prevent MAF damages, can I just spray the stuff after the MAF? And by the way, if you have a minute, could you explain me what this stuff will do? Is it a kind of explosive stuff like brake cleaner that will cause some explosions in the combustion chamber? Thank you very much for all that support, for sure, the SVX is not the most reliable car on earth but damn SVX guys are nice! Thanks again! |
#24
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Oh! I found that on wikipedia..
thanks anyway! Starting fluid is a mixture of diethyl ether, volatile hydrocarbons (heptane, butane and propane), dimethyl ether (as a propellant), and carbon dioxide. It is often useful when starting direct injected diesel engines or lean burn spark engines running on alcohol fuel. Starting fluid works due to the low autoignition temperature of diethyl ether: 360 °F (182 °C). Starting fluid comes in a regular or premium grade. The regular grade contains 21-35% diethyl ether. Premium grade starting fluids have a 40-60% diethyl ether content. The rest of the volume is commonly taken by heptane. Using starting fluid to get the engine running faster avoids wear, especially on rarely used engines. Mechanics, especially amateur mechanics that lack diagnostic machines, (Hahaha!) sometimes use it to diagnose starting problems. If sprayed into the air intake on a car, it can be used to determine whether the spark and ignition system of the car is functioning, since the engine will run until the starting fluid vapors in the intake system are exhausted. It is used more often with carbureted engines than with fuel injection systems. It is especially useful for starting diesel engines in colder weather as they do not run efficiently until the engine block warms up to a certain degree. Starter fluid is sometimes used as an inhalant. The majority of the effects are caused by diethyl ether in liquid form rather than as vapor. |
#25
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you can certainly unscrew the hose clamp just after the MAF.
6 in one... half dozen in the other just figured unsnapping the air box is quick and easy it's tool-less too, so there is no screw driver to vanish the moment you set it down ...yeah, don't inhale it
__________________
-Mike ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165 Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ? |
#26
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Sooooooo..
I bought a stuff named Liquid Fire this morning. It's a kind of strating fluid.. Plugged the car with the boost pack at ''boost'' mode for 10 minutes, Plugged the block heater for an hour (It's -18degree today, pretty cold.), Sprayed the stuff for about 10 seconds just after the air filter without spraying some on the MAF thing, Put the key at ''ON'' to let the fuel pump go, And finally, crank the car for about 30seconds -1minute... There's nothing different from the last time. The stuff I used was spraying a really light fume. I dond think the gas will travel all the way down to the intake manifold... Could it be the reason why it's not working? Also, since it's still not working, could it be a fire problem? Thanks! |
#27
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well shoot, now it gets hard...
fuel is likely not the issue I am afraid to have you pull stuff in this weather, but here is the info next would have to be spark... which you can check by unbolting a coil pack/ spark plug wire and pulling it out where you can stick a screw driver in the end and hold the exposed metal up to something grounded. Watch for spark while a friend cranks. Th pass side wir all the way forward is probably the easiest to get to.
__________________
-Mike ECUTune2v7 - 4.11 5 Speed - Sprung 6 Puck Clutch - D&S Rotors - SS Brake & Clutch Lines - HKS Panel Filter - HeaderBack Exhaust -80GB Hard Drive - GroupN Engine Mounts - - some other "tricks"
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] In progess: track down mystery noise <-identified, paint the new dash, get better pic Spring plans: Replace Trans - Integrate ECU with the carputer - Suspension - Go back to STI Filter - Paint? Maybe not - Next Oil change: Purolator L30165 Member #995 | My Locker | My New Locker Catch you next at: ? Auto-X ? Last edited by Speedklix; 01-03-2008 at 06:20 PM. |
#28
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From easiest and most likely to hardest and also likely.
Check all fuses in the relay box under the hood, something may have fried. Check the ground strap at the back of the intake on the passenger side, this being disconnected can cause problems. Check the red relay box under the dash about a foot directly above the brake pedal, is it buzzing with the ignition in the "on" position? Make sure you maf connections are snug (though the car would likely fire a few times even if it were not.) Was the timing belt serviced recently? Pull off the inspection cover for the timing belt on one side and make sure that you still have one. Check the connection to the cam angle sensor. Pull the codes from the ECU (see the how to at the top of the forum) Is there an after-market alarm? Disable it. See if replacing the entire car solves the problem, if so replace car, and nuke current car from orbit.
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Patrick 1995 Ebony Pearl. S.N. 0001 "Araby" JDM Power Mode Switch, Integrated GPS/Video Player 6Xk Miles. 1992 Teal - Sold to Mysvxrocks [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] |
#29
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first message ever from the new guy!
Hey there Gloomy and Speedklix, i was reading this thread and I am having the same problem with my 92 SVX, I checked the fuel hose and its getting great fuel, checked the timing belt (just pulled the three easiest bolts and gently pulled back the cover) (This might help you Gloomy)and its in great shape. I am not getting spark when I use Speedklix screwdriver method. Is there a diagnostic connection??
How do I get that code you were talking about Speedklix? I hope I am not being intrusive...thanks |
#30
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Found the red relay clicks under steering column
the red relay was clicking once when turning the key on, I will replace it and let yall know, but its more of a redish brown and has JIDECO RELAY 2M and the numbers 25229 AA010 followed by a second line of 13 letters and numbers. I will do the research and replace it and let yall know if that was it! Thanks Yall! Rick
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