water pump

[drivemusicnow]

Originally posted by SilverSpear
SNIP>

1- thermostat
2- water pump
3- gaskets (even though it was still new)
4- oil pump
5- timing belt
6- gasket rocker covers
7- spark plugs
8- oil sealing
9- fuel filter
10- K&N filter
11- oil change + filter (castrol 10W-60 + subaru filter)
12- a plastic cover located behing the flywheel of the engine, replaced it with a metal assembly + sealings
13- all the water and fuel hoses
14- distilled water + antifreeze.

a nice $450 as a total (including $60 labor) just to be on the safe side of the issue.

my engine is back as good as new, very well being take care of but never underestimate any problem that occurr !!!

The water pump and timing belt alone would be over $750 here. if i was writing that estimate at the garage i worked at... I'm taking a guess that it would be about 2000$


why so thick of an oil??? i would think you'd benifit from a thinner "hot" weight oil. like a 10w30.. or 5w30 even.

[SilverSpear]

Originally posted by drivemusicnow


The water pump and timing belt alone would be over $750 here. if i was writing that estimate at the garage i worked at... I'm taking a guess that it would be about 2000$


why so thick of an oil??? i would think you'd benifit from a thinner "hot" weight oil. like a 10w30.. or 5w30 even.

10w-60 is thick?????? now I am this is the thinnest oil available in Lebanon other than 0w-50 . this 10w-60 castrol is a super synthetic oil used in racing cars and has a special substance inside it to not allow the engine to form sludge (like a continuous engine flush) ... 1 quart=10.5$ !!! soon I will switch to 0w-50 because winter is here.

[drivemusicnow]

I personally use a 5w30... this menas that at start up, the oil is very "thin" and can circulate to coat everything very quickly.. as it heats up, it becomes a 30 wieght oil.. which is pretty average in america.

10W60 is for like.. high speed endurance cars that run at high revs for veryy long periods of times. the added "protection" is worth the slightly less viscous oil.... its the second number that matters for protection/ loss of hp.

We have a Mobil 1 sythentic that some cars use over here thats a 0w20... thats mostly for higher revving engines.. but still. why is the thinnist oil available a 50 weight???

[SilverSpear]

Originally posted by drivemusicnow
I personally use a 5w30... this menas that at start up, the oil is very "thin" and can circulate to coat everything very quickly.. as it heats up, it becomes a 30 wieght oil.. which is pretty average in america.

10W60 is for like.. high speed endurance cars that run at high revs for veryy long periods of times. the added "protection" is worth the slightly less viscous oil.... its the second number that matters for protection/ loss of hp.

We have a Mobil 1 sythentic that some cars use over here thats a 0w20... thats mostly for higher revving engines.. but still. why is the thinnist oil available a 50 weight???

come on man , I live in the middle east (where oil is extracted), we have all kinds of oils, 0w-20, 0w-25, 0w-30, 0w-40, 0w-50 then 5w-20, ............. but the one i have chosen is a mixture of viscosity and protection for the car. in the summer i run on 10w-60 and in winter 0w-50...

[svxpert]

<<i getting the pump tested this weekend by my mechanic.>>

any news?

[drivemusicnow]

Originally posted by SilverSpear


10w-60 is thick?????? now I am this is the thinnest oil available in Lebanon other than 0w-50 . this 10w-60 castrol is a super synthetic oil used in racing cars and has a special substance inside it to not allow the engine to form sludge (like a continuous engine flush) ... 1 quart=10.5$ !!! soon I will switch to 0w-50 because winter is here.

10w-60 is thick??????

yes, it is

this is the thinnest oil available in Lebanon other than 0w-50 .

obviously not if you also have 0w 20 weight oils!?!

... 0w20 is a thinner oil, and used in high revving NEW engines to provide the best performance and engine cleaning. also, new bearings have tighter tolerences... so this is the solution to make sure they maintain fully lubricated.

10w60 is thicker both in startup and warm running the what is recommended in the subaru manuals. plus mineral oil is extracted in the middles east... not synthetic.

well my water pump seems to be working fine.. it was changed not too long before i bought the car it seems.. someone did drain about half a container of fluid out of my radiator to make it run hot.. idiots. i called and i am having a meeting with a lawyer and the general manager next week.. we will see i will keep posted

[SilverSpear]

Originally posted by drivemusicnow


10w-60 is thick??????

yes, it is

this is the thinnest oil available in Lebanon other than 0w-50 .

obviously not if you also have 0w 20 weight oils!?!

... 0w20 is a thinner oil, and used in high revving NEW engines to provide the best performance and engine cleaning. also, new bearings have tighter tolerences... so this is the solution to make sure they maintain fully lubricated.

10w60 is thicker both in startup and warm running the what is recommended in the subaru manuals. plus mineral oil is extracted in the middles east... not synthetic.

what about high temperature of the atmosphere, will the 0w-20 protect your engine??

[drivemusicnow]

I'm not sure... but I think for our engines, a 5W30 is what subaru recomends.. i think its also about the best multi weight that can both easily flow at startup, and protect without slowing things down at operating temperatures.

WOuld Harvey, Beav, or the mass of other people that know more than me like to chime in and correct anything?

[SilverSpear]

Originally posted by drivemusicnow
I'm not sure... but I think for our engines, a 5W30 is what subaru recomends.. i think its also about the best multi weight that can both easily flow at startup, and protect without slowing things down at operating temperatures.

WOuld Harvey, Beav, or the mass of other people that know more than me like to chime in and correct anything?

all I know about the oil is that the hotter it gets, the thinner it becomes. this 5W-30 you use, when it gets hot it becomes 0W-20 or 0W-15, it gets thinner and looses its protective ability for the engine internals. that's why in summertime, the oil I use is 10W-60, when it gets hot it becomes maximum like 0W-30. whereas in wintertime I use 0W-50, shich gets thinner no more than the same 0W-30....

this is what I know about the oils... I might be mistaken, but mostly I am sure about it.

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by drivemusicnow
I'm not sure... but I think for our engines, a 5W30 is what subaru recomends.. i think its also about the best multi weight that can both easily flow at startup, and protect without slowing things down at operating temperatures.

WOuld Harvey, Beav, or the mass of other people that know more than me like to chime in and correct anything?

Just a personal opinion here, but I would never put 5W30 in my car. The thing has 120k miles! As bearings wear, they need thicker oil. I run 10w30 m1 synthetic.

[SilverSpear]

Originally posted by SVXer95


Just a personal opinion here, but I would never put 5W30 in my car. The thing has 120k miles! As bearings wear, they need thicker oil. I run 10w30 m1 synthetic.

did anybody use an HD-40 oil for an engine other than the Diesel engine??? well my Dad is using it in his Grand Cherokee !!!
(guessed? white smoking engine... will need fixing or replacing very soon)

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by SilverSpear


all I know about the oil is that the hotter it gets, the thinner it becomes. this 5W-30 you use, when it gets hot it becomes 0W-20 or 0W-15, it gets thinner and looses its protective ability for the engine internals. that's why in summertime, the oil I use is 10W-60, when it gets hot it becomes maximum like 0W-30. whereas in wintertime I use 0W-50, shich gets thinner no more than the same 0W-30....

this is what I know about the oils... I might be mistaken, but mostly I am sure about it.

Well.....you ARE mistaken. Viscosity is the resistance to flow. First number is cold viscosity, second is warm viscosity. These are SAE designated numbers that correspond to actual viscosity measurements in centistokes.

Read here:
http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts.html

[SVXer95]

Originally posted by SilverSpear


did anybody use an HD-40 oil for an engine other than the Diesel engine??? well my Dad is using it in his Grand Cherokee !!!
(guessed? white smoking engine... will need fixing or replacing very soon)

White smoke = coolant. Blue Smoke = oil.

Definitely the wrong oil for that car.....

[SilverSpear]

Originally posted by SVXer95

Well.....you ARE mistaken. Viscosity is the resistance to flow. First number is cold viscosity, second is warm viscosity. These are SAE designated numbers that correspond to actual viscosity measurements in centistokes.

Read here:
http://www.repairfaq.org/filipg/AUTO/F_oil_facts.html

no I am not mistaken !!!! look :

<An oil with too low a viscosity can shear and lose film strength at high temperatures> ----> this is why I use 10W-60 in the Summer, because 10 becomes 0 and 60 becomes 30
AND
<An oil with too high a viscosity may not pump to the proper parts at low temperatures and the film may tear at high rpm.>
-----> this is why I use 0 in winter because of low temperature!!!