My SVX killed in collision. How much was it worth prior?

[SVXdc]

A few weeks ago my SVX was hit by another car. Now I'm dealing with the insurance company and trying to decide what I want to do.

First task is for me to make my own determination of my car's value before the collision, since I anticipate the insurance company is going to come back with something low. I'd greatly appreciate any information other SVX owners can provide, especially recent sales prices of comparable SVXs. More details on my car below.

BTW, many thanks to Norm ("STORMINORMAN"), who has extensive experience handling insurance claims. He spoke with me at length and provided a great deal of helpful advice.

About the accident:

I was first in line at a red traffic light, in the left turn lane, waiting to turn left. The light changed to a green arrow for me, and I started to make my turn. The other car, coming from my left, ignored his red light and plowed into mine. The front of his car slammed into my front left wheel, quarter panel, and door, and spun my car about 45° into another car that had been in the next lane to my right.

Fortunately, nobody was injured. The other two cars were able to drive away. Mine was no longer drivable, and I had it towed directly home into my garage.

The other driver's insurance company has accepted responsibility, and is currently coming up with their estimate of my car's value, as well as their estimate of the cost to repair.

The adjuster was unable to find sufficient comparable SVXs for sale locally to be able to determine the value on the spot. He said his office would have to broaden the search to additional for-sale publications and expand out to a larger surrounding region. He was also having trouble finding sources/prices for some of the parts required for repair, so he said he'd need more time to research that as well.

He left without making any final determination on the car's value or cost for repairs (and thus, whether they'll call it a "total"). However, judging from the visible exterior damage alone, the rep expects that the repair cost will wind up higher than my car's current value.

[SVXdc]

Info on my SVX:

Mine is a 1996 L. For those unfamiliar with this year/trim, it has: AWD, dual airbags, rear spoiler, fabric seats. It lacks (all standard on the LSi): moonroof, power driver's seat, leather, factory CD player, security system, tweeters.

I purchased it new in September 1996 with 64 miles. Sticker price was $30,490. Mileage is now 139,180 (~11K/year, a little below average).

Everything is still stock. No mods (except aftermarket radio/CD, and aftermarket security/keyless entry — connected via the car's OEM harnesses only, no cutting/splicing).

Prior to the accident, the exterior was in reasonably good condition. It had the usual dings and paint chips, but no fading or rust. No fading on plastic trim/cladding, and no fading, cracks, or pitting of the rubber weather stripping. Car has been garaged for all except somewhere between 1-2 years of its life.

Condition of the interior is very good. Very clean. No tears, or fading. Everything works. Visors do not droop. The claims rep was very impressed.

Engine and transmission are good. It has always passed emissions tests. I replaced the radiator and water pump, and rebuilt the P/S pump about a year ago. No other major service has been needed.

Both rear wheel bearings were replaced, a total of three times. Last time was four years ago, no problems since.

Five months ago I installed new brake pads all around, and flushed the brake fluid (had a shop turn the rotors).

Four new tires installed 2 years / 29,000 miles ago (Toyo Proxes 4). Perhaps half the tread left?

I have all of the service records. I've kept up with the major services, and done oil changes myself.

Pictures:

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Notes:

Top of the wheel is angled inward towards the engine.

Windshield received several long, vertical cracks near the left A-pillar. All other glass appears to still be OK.

Not pictured — the right turn signal lens is cracked and has a chunk missing.

Driver's door no longer opens very far. I can latch it closed again, but the top edge no longer seals.

I had a mechanic friend (actually an aircraft A&P who has also done a great deal of car work) take a look. We jacked up the front corner to look underneath. He saw that the top of the wheel/tire was slammed into the strut. The strut is now bowed in slightly. Tire is still holding air, but likely no longer safe. He said the wheel is very likely damaged too (shouldn't try to reuse without thorough inspection for cracks, probably not worth the effort).

My friend thinks that the frame still looks straight. However, the driver's door hinge pin is now a little more towards the centerline of the car.

Immediately after the collision, what I'm pretty sure is P/S fluid started leaking from the area near the rack, so that's likely toasted. But it does not appear that the force of the collision was conveyed along the axle to the transmission.

My car did have prior damage from a side-swipe collision on the opposite corner (very rear edge of right door, and right rear quarter panel forward of the rear wheel). There did not appear to be any major frame damage -- the passenger door and its window still work fine. However, the right rear window is impeded from rolling down all the way by the large dent. Car was completely drivable.

The other driver's insurance company accepted liability for that incident too, wrote up a repair estimate, and gave me a check. Long story, but I had not yet had that repair done (was still intending to).

Because it was/is covered by another insurance claim (and could still be repaired), this other damage should be ignored when determining my car's value prior to the recent accident.

Assuming the insurance company deems mine a total loss (likely), do I still want to fix mine? I'm leaning strongly away from that. As much as I'd like to keep this car, I think there's more damage than I want to deal with. Were I to decide to get mine repaired, does anyone know of a good body shop in or reasonably close to Atlanta?

If I don't fix mine, do I want to buy another SVX? I still like the SVX more than anything else I've seen on the road, but it may be time to get something newer for my daily driver (I have no idea what I'd get, though).

If mine is declared a total, I'll likely offer to rebuy it for the salvage price. Then I'd need to decide whether I want to A) keep as a source of parts for myself, B) part it out for others, or C) sell the whole thing to someone here on the board who's interested. Don't start posting replies or PMs with your requests yet — if I do this, I'll open a new thread for that in the appropriate forum.

[JaySVX]

If there's frame damage, I wouldn't do it. Not only is it a fortune to repair the damage, but from what I've heard those with frame damage are never the same afterwards. If they total it, I'd offer to rebuy it for the salvage cost, then start parting, or get one super cheap with a toasted engine or something like that, then put yours in. That way you can actually come out ahead with some cash left over. Figure $1000 for one toasted, $3000ish cash for your car, $300 to rebuy it, so $2700 net profit on that, minus $1000 for a new car with some engine work required, so your $1700 for "bonus" parts you didn't have before.

What sucks mostly, is that laguna's are so uncommon, and such a fantastic color, i hate to see any hit the dirt.

[Blenderhead]

NADA retail on that car is $3450. They should come pretty close to that value on it. You might be able to get them to go a little higher since you have all the service records and everything to show that the car was well maintained.

[bheinen74]

i would think real market price on a 96 one owner car, would be 4-6G with arguing it, if an lsl than more.. sorry that this happened. I estimate damages to be around 3500. so probably not a total. take the money, find used parts, fix er up. its mostly bolt on stuff (fender, hood, corner light, bumper skin, door, wheel, shock tower w mount, and hub, new window $. The hood can be reworked pretty easily. doubt the frame is touched at all.

[redlightningsvx]

Im pretyy sure his is a 1995 because he mentioned L model.

[SVXdc]

Originally Posted by redlightningsvx

Im pretyy sure his is a 1995 because he mentioned L model.

By "his" do you mean me? Believe me, mine is a 1996 L. I bought the car new and still have the window sticker. My VIN has a "T" (for '96).

You might want to brush up on the SVX history. The '96 was offered in L and LSi models.

I specifically bought an SVX without the moonroof to gain the extra headroom.

[essveeexxee]

10 characters.

[solarsvx]

i know the kbb and nada are off on there prices, it really comes down to the shape and miles of the car,

i paid around 8,500 when the kbb was only 4,500 just because of the low milage,

i would fight for it, and keep a record of all the svx that is the same year and milage and see what they are going for

best of luck

[s'ko]

use firefox and search craiglist via crazedlist.org.

It's a search engine that searches all craigslist postings.

BW

[Zandar]

That's going to be a total without any frame damage due to three things:

1. Suspension damage.

2. Prior damage.

3. The current economy.

I know you said the prior damage shouldn't affect the total value of your pre-accident car value, but it will (if the insurance adjustor does his homework and finds out about the prior claim, that is). Since you settled the claim and didn't fix the car, the value of the previous claim is not on your car, so to speak.

In other words, if the repairs would have been $500 and you didn't repair it, the car is worth $500 less. It has essentially had $500 "pulled out" of the car in damages and put into cash.

As for the economy, you unfortunately are in a crappy time to have an accident. Car prices are down, so comp (comparative vehicle) prices are down.

All that being said, you don't have to go with the adjustor's first pitch for a total loss settlement. If it seems too low, find your own comps and try to negotiate a higher price.

Also, you'll probably want to retain salvage even if you don't repair the car. It's worth a whole lot more parted out than it is in salvage. Heck, the windshield and motor alone are probably twice the salvage value, not to mention the rest of the car.

Good luck, and sorry to see a Laguna Blue in such dire straights!

[SVXdc]

Originally Posted by Zandar

...
I know you said the prior damage shouldn't affect the total value of your pre-accident car value, but it will (if the insurance adjustor does his homework and finds out about the prior claim, that is). Since you settled the claim and didn't fix the car, the value of the previous claim is not on your car, so to speak.

In other words, if the repairs would have been $500 and you didn't repair it, the car is worth $500 less. It has essentially had $500 "pulled out" of the car in damages and put into cash.
...

Yes, I understand and agree. I was trying to not complicate this thread (I wanted to do that math separately, since I know the amount of the previous check). Basically, I wanted to determine the value of my car as if that previous damage had already been repaired, since it's easier to compare to other "whole" cars.

Technically, I have not yet settled the older claim — it's still open. So if I do decide to have the new damage repaired, I can still have the other insurance company fix the old damage.