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#1
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ac problem
my ac is blowing cool-warm air (not hot and not cold).
I did self diagnostic and there was code 00 so i went to step 3 and got code 41: mode door intake door air mix door blower motor compressor compressor solenoid I removed glove box and checked all but compressor and solenoid(no tools and know how)and it is working. it goes like this: 1-when in auto mode and temp at 65 cool-warm air is blowing thru vent at low fan speed,when i go to 85 fan is high speed and air is blowing thru bottom heat outlets,then i go to 65 and fan is in low speed again( i do not changed fan speed ,it was auto mode) 2-when in auto and 65 and i hit deff fan isgoing to high speed blowing thru deff and air is cool-warm,when i hit auto it goes back to low fan speed. 3- Today was aroud 80 ,car was parked in sun whole day so it was hot inside. Shouldn't fan go to high speed when in auto at 65 ? I was touching lines and they are cool not cold,als was looking at that litle peep hole and couldn't say if there is any fluid in there. Could it be that i only need to recharge the system or my compressor is bad? What do you think? Thanks in adwance. Bart. |
#2
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It may be that you need to recharge the system. Does the compressor run when it is in the cooler setting, or not. That would also let us know if it is low in coolant. If it is too low, the compressor will not go on.
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#3
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I would always check the coolant lvl first before going through the trouble of ripping the dash open. They sell cheap recharging systems that have a pressure gauge on them at any car parts place. Keep cool.
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#4
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Did you try using your A/C while driving? Sometimes when it's very hot outside, you need to move some air across the condensor coil.
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#5
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dannmarr
i just discoverd that. when i drive for 2-3 min and hit auto it will blow on high speed but the air is only cool, and when i hit off and auto again it wont blow,it needs to be off for next cople minutes and then again auto and blows high but cool. i chacked lines and they are hot around compressor and worm around dryer,i can alsoo see a lot of air bubbless thru dryer window. i stoped usng ac untill i get to recharge it,and i'm not putting glove box untill then. I ordered recharging kit with leak detection from AutoRefrigerants.com , that member WGJ was recommending last year. It only cost 40 $ and should be plenty for another recharge if needed. Now fun part. I called my subaru STEELER and ask about converting to r134,after asking for year and model they called me back an said that they need to se the car to give corecct price but it should be between 600$and 800$!!! I was afraid to ask how much for r12 recharge!!! then i drove to Precision Auto Tune and they wnted 240 $ for convertion i will try my 40 $ option first. Last edited by SVXBart; 03-30-2007 at 04:59 PM. |
#6
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cont.
While waitng for new refrgerant for my ac i decided to ramove cooling unit and clean it.
as you can se it was not an easy job (and some of you can see my strong resemblance to Svxfiles Tom in this position.) When i finaly got it out i was suprised what i saw. It looked almost like orioles got a nest in there I decided to crack it open to remove it all,and disasembly expansion vale to clen it to ,and ofcorse while doing that i broke bigger tube of that small radiator ( no pics of that) But my lovely whife found a solution to all my SVX problems and my refrigerant came today I called local junkjard-you pull it-today and they got few early 90' legacys there,they would take 15 $ for coolig unit,but i'm not sure if it will fit,will check it on saturday. That is all for tonight. |
#7
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SVXBart, help me out here. I am getting a fault code for the AC/Heat mix door motor (it's stuck on heat only). Is your approach the best way to access the motor and door? I'm not sure my old body can take that position.
Gene
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Gene and Ben 1992 SVX LS AWD 110K - Liquid Silver 1994 SVX LSi AWD 128K - White Pearl (daily driver) 1994 SVX LSi AWD 95K - Emerald Pearl (sold) 1992 SVX LS-L AWD 115K - Dark Teal 4.44 swap (sold) |
#9
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Quote:
However, in my youth, I do remember getting into some pretty peculiar positions in cars, not however seeking heat mix doors, more along the "Paradise by the dashboard light" situations. Pull the passenger seat I would say, but mind your back lifting it. It's not nearly as heavy as the driver's seat with all the motors, but it ain't made from carbon fiber and kevlar, that's for sure! Joe
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#10
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Thanks for the advice. I will keep close track of every step for posterity. I was hesitant to start until I was sure I was approaching the problem from the right direction. However, I will still first try to bribe my son out from under his 5.0 Volvo project for dear old dad.
Gene
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Gene and Ben 1992 SVX LS AWD 110K - Liquid Silver 1994 SVX LSi AWD 128K - White Pearl (daily driver) 1994 SVX LSi AWD 95K - Emerald Pearl (sold) 1992 SVX LS-L AWD 115K - Dark Teal 4.44 swap (sold) Last edited by bwb3; 04-06-2007 at 04:01 PM. |
#11
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From my time under the dash. Slide seat all the way back, recline as far as possible, get 1-2 small pillows for your head and maybe one in the seat to make it more flat to lay on (couch pillows work well) and it is really not that uncomfortable under there.
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#13
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If you convert the system to a refrigerant it was not designed for, The system will never work properly. The oils used by R 12 is not compatible with R134 a, they react and become acidic. The compressor, expansion valve, receiver dryer, condenser, evaporator and hoses are all different between the two systems. Additionally, Charging an air conditioner is a very tedious process, and the amount of refrigerant required for the system to operate properly is very specific. If you over or under charge the system, or charge it improperly, you will damage the compressor, and could even injure yourself. Additionally, because the SVX uses a variable displacement compressor, the sight glass is useless for charging purposes. It is just there to show if there is contamination in the system, and to show that there is flow. I strongly urge everyone to allow a professional to service this part of the car. I've seen many cars that just needed a 200 dollar recharge service get distroyed by improper servicing, needing north of $2,000 worth of parts to be restored to operational condition.
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