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#16
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I found Mobile 1 to be a little too thin, just my opinion though.
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"The things you own end up owning you. It's only after you lose everything that you're free to do anything." 92 Pearl White Ls-l (138k) Euro Headlights & Blinkers, 97 Grill, Euro Tail Lights, SS Brake Lines, Stebro Exhaust, Slotted Rotors, Classic Registration 96 Legacy Outback (206k) 5-speed 2.2 Lightweight Crank Pulley, Group N Trans & Motor Mounts SOLD Wanted: Steering Wheel |
#17
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I hate to complicate things but let us consider the worst case scenario.
The flex plate or sticky lifter issue is quite common, but don't forget other members have had problems with loose crankshafts, bad bearings, and that one guy who broke a rod. Without a sound clip perhaps with video there is no way we are going ot be able to diagnose exactly what could be happening. I'd get a professional to look at it if you are not confident with what you know.
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"That which can be asserted without evidence can be dismissed without evidence." '92 Dark Teal SVX LS-L, >146,000m 3 pedals, 5 speeds., restoration underway. 2012 Honda Insight, slow but cute. |
#18
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#19
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Did you even look at your flexplate? It's visible from under the car. Mine is at least.
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"That which can be asserted without evidence can be dismissed without evidence." '92 Dark Teal SVX LS-L, >146,000m 3 pedals, 5 speeds., restoration underway. 2012 Honda Insight, slow but cute. |
#20
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I havent yet, but its on my list of things to do today. |
#21
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Danny 1994 Silver SVX in hybernation, awaiting for the monsterous awakening (Lebanon) 1967 Mercedes-Benz 250SL Euro Specs, Hard/Softtop, White/Red. Under Complete Restoration 2013 Mercedes-Benz SL350 Euro Specs, White/Red. Mint... Another step into SL Collection. |
#22
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well it seems that the MMO worked its magic.....unless somehow the ticking just comes back
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#23
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glad to hear your troubles have ended
Tom |
#24
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It ticked, stopped. Ticked, stopped. Finally stopped after a few days.
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"That which can be asserted without evidence can be dismissed without evidence." '92 Dark Teal SVX LS-L, >146,000m 3 pedals, 5 speeds., restoration underway. 2012 Honda Insight, slow but cute. |
#25
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I have the same problem on and off. I've tried an engine oil cleaner, the one just before you change it (don't remember the brand, but it was one only available from the mechanic). This was done twice, now it has an additive that is supposed to quiet the lifters, but not much seems to be happening. I'm sure it is from the lifters, the RHS of the engine (looking from driver seat).
Comes and goes, doesn't seem to relate to temperature or driving time. Previous (and used for 2 years) oil was Castrol Protec GTX 15W-40. Mineral oil. Now I have Mobil Super S 10W-40, synthetic Blend. I'm still evaluating this one as it is the first oil change on this oil. Mind you, the old girl sits for quite long periods as I am overseas all the time! (Think of all the mileage I am saving....) Matt
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'92 JDM (E) Burgandy/Black 100Km Just Crusin' Last edited by floatingkiwi; 08-06-2005 at 11:54 AM. |
#26
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Used to be I always thought heavier oil was better. Maybe back in the dino "old days" it was. But...the last 2 Subarus I've bought - a WRX and now a Outback H-6 - both recommended and ran fine on 5W30. So why not the SVX??? From looking at related threads, I can't find any reliable relationship between oil viscosity to the problem. And, some people switch to heavier and it stops it. Whatever works.
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Jerry 2005 Baja Turbo 2008 Ford Crown Victoria Police Interceptor jnj7707@yahoo.com |
#27
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I have a quick question about MMO, do you have to put it in while changing the oil, or can I put some in without changing the oil (of course not over filling the pan)?
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-Khalil *1992 SVX Red. Now 100k and climbing Tranny rebuilt @ 84k. Repaint @ 87k. Mods (in order of install)- K&N air filter, ECUtune stage 1v.4, Alternator mod, removed intake resonator, B&M Supercooler, Window Tint, JDM Emblem, Hid Kit 5000K. |
#28
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BUMBLE....who?
Please don't complain about anywhere in the U.S.! ......until you've been to the Philippines...or any other third world country, gentlemen! HA!
[boydoIhaveastory!]
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Jim 1995 Laguna Blue SVX AWD L - 240K (daily driver) - "ReBuILT" used engine at 236K miles (6/13) 2013 Veloster Red - Driver Now??Dropsprings [1/2" rear, 1" front] with Koni Strut Inserts> Magnaflow Exhaust System> ECUTune Stage 1av1 Upgrade (from 1v4)> ECUTune TCU MOD> Aluminum Crankshaft Pulley> Stainless Brake Lines> Phenolic Spacers> Perforated Brake Rotors (dint like, OEM now)> SmallCar Shift Kit (resting since TCU MOD)> 7-Position Ground System> High-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulator (resting)> ATF Cooler & Campaign Filter> Yellow Polish Polyurethane Bushings> Pioneer Double-DIN Stereo with JL AUDIO Speakers> Driveshaft Rebuilt with C-Clip U-Joints> 15 Min MOD> 20 Min MOD .. . (2011) Valentine One Radar Detector with Remote Display - ucan'tseeme! |
#29
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Thinking of changing to synthetic next change, but I'm worried about potential leakages - I have a "damp" engine already...
Matt
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'92 JDM (E) Burgandy/Black 100Km Just Crusin' |
#30
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I have the ticking issue now also (i swear i get a new problem every 200 miles) I tryed that lucast oil stuff.....not a good idea...it got alot worse!!!(im guessing it was to thick) so i think im goin gto go get my oil changed(its cold and wet outside...im not doing it myself!) and try some 5w30 and maybe mmo like I see alot of people talking about.... my tap want to bad but it didnt change to the car warming up.... I got the tapping issue once before after the car sat for almost a year but it went away after 10 minutes of driving.... the car has 86k on it now... god with all of the problems i have with this car I feel bad for the high mileage owners!! infact it is my only car with under 120k and it is the only one im always dumping money into! ( I have 4 other cars! including a POS ford exploder)
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1992 SVX black/redish 62k awd, rims, brakes..and a few add ons for extra HPs |
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