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#16
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Re: Front rubber scrunching sound
What about the guys in Poland, they do all sorts of Poly bushes, I am sure if you asked them they would make new for much cheaper???
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1995 LSI, Added the following - Gear Firm-Up unit (that I sell) together with Power TCU ROM & Power switch, K&N air filter, SVX side badges (USA type), Rear Deck Blower (JDM type), Side front markers (USA type), Side rear markers (USA type), Middle rear light (USA type), USA OEM Fog Lights fitted into NZ OEM glass (NZ OEM headlights had only reflectors fitted) Full set of yellow (90SH) Polish bushes includes 15 min mod, R1 Concepts drilled/slotted/gold finish rotors & Red covered braided brake lines (both from Dayle at Motorsport warehouse), EBC Redstuff brake pads. Full SVX bra (only used for shows). Koni adjustable inserts fitted inside OEM strut body, Zoom lowering springs (2" lower), OEM headlight washers fitted. |
#17
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Re: Front rubber scrunching sound
I don't think we could find/ship for cheaper than $40 for the RalliTek insert; Of course we would still need to purchase a 1 piece rear tranny frame. I'm not really looking into organizing a Group Buy, just looking to find a eay replacement for my mount. That may be as simple as the $30+ , mount for a 98 Legacy (still waiting for the mount to arrive today).
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#18
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Re: Front rubber scrunching sound
I think I have hijacked this thread, so How do we make this a different thread?
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#19
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Re: Front rubber scrunching sound
As a follow up.
My shop installed my new Subaru engine mounts, pitch stopper and legacy transmission mount the other day. They said the tranny mount was a direct bolt in with no grinding off of studs required. And, no more rubber scrunching sound! The offending sound I have been trying to eradicate is now gone. It is like a new car with a now tight smooth engine. I guess like shock absorbers, the loss of mount function was so insidious that I had forgotten how the car was supposed to feel. The old mounts were about1/4 to 1/2 inch collapsed when compared to new. These were the original mounts that were replaced. I was charged $330 for labor. I provided all the parts thinking I would try the job myself, but backing out after performing several of the steps as per the service manual and realizing this was not going to be a good usage of my time. If you know the steps outlined in the manual, my shop only needed to take off the air intake to replace the pitch stopper. The rest they did under the car, removing both exhaust pipes but not the stabilizer bar or exhaust manifolds. Hope this helps. Bill Z |
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