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#1
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revving in D
first i want to throw out that that i live in nebraska and the average temp. in the morning is anywhere from 20-30 usually; but it is below freezing.
every morning i start my car before i leave for school and let it run for about 5 min. Recently though, i will begin driving and i'll come up to the first stoplight, which is always red so i have to stop. but when the light turns green i hit the gas and the engine just revs. the car is still in drive but it won't budge. im lost as for what to do. what i have done is put the car in park and then back in drive and then ill hit the gas again, that doesnt usually work until the second time i do it. it's frustrating for me and im sure its just the same for the people behind me that have to wait. the car used to be my older brothers so i confronted him about it. he told me it happened a few times to him also. he thinks it's just because the engine isn't warm enough yet, so he recommended i let the car run a little longer in the morning. i still dont know though. any help? btw, i'd like to throw in that while i was at the drive thru at BK, the guy behind the counter told me my car was like a "mystery machine". anyone heard that before? ahaha
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Trevor Avondale, AZ 1992 LS-L Liquid Silver 126k "BXR6" Sold 3/23/13 1992 LS-L Claret 178k totaled 10/26/09 1987 BMW 325is 60% of the time it works, every time |
#2
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Definately something Trans related. I don't see how a cold engine wouldn't move the car.
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bLAh
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#3
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Have you checked the fluid level/condition?
When it's at that almost too low stage you'll have cold drivability issues. If the fluid level is fine, I reccommend a filter change to inspect the pickup tube in the tranny. My car's been called a spaceship, A Probe & a 240SX. The best thing in the world is the WTF look on people's faces. *grin*
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[SIGPIC]http://www.subaru-svx.net/forum/image.php?type=sigpic&userid=5569&dateline=1207440 507[/SIGPIC] Naught but by the grace of God "42" Current Stable By Age:'89 Subaru XT6 Silver "Audrey" as in Hepburn '96 SVX LSi #767Brilliant Red "Lil Red" Now on the front burner. Looking for a totalled, but running parts car. Last edited by crazyhorse; 11-27-2007 at 03:11 PM. |
#4
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ill get that checked tonight
the manual says to drive around a bit to warm up the engine, and ill be able to do that a little later on thanks ill let you know how that works out for me
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Trevor Avondale, AZ 1992 LS-L Liquid Silver 126k "BXR6" Sold 3/23/13 1992 LS-L Claret 178k totaled 10/26/09 1987 BMW 325is 60% of the time it works, every time |
#5
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I agree. I would check the fluid level. When it warms up, it may expand enough to allow it to work properly and before it gets warm enough, it doesn't have enough fluid. I would check that first.
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. Earl .... ... .... ><SVX(*> Subaru Ambassador [COLOR=”silver”]1992 Tri Color L[/COLOR] ~45K (06/91) #2430 1992 Dark Teal LS-L ~184K (05/91) #0739 1992 Claret LS-L ~196K (05/91) #0831 1992 Pearl LS-L ~103K (06/91) #1680 1992 Pearl LS-L ~151K (06/91) #2229 1992 Dark Teal LS ~150K (07/91) #3098 (parts car) 1992 White LS-L ~139K (08/92) #6913 1993 25th AE ~98K (02/93) #164 1993 25th AE ~58K (02/93) #176 1993 25th AE ~107K (02/93) #215 1993 25th AE ~162K (02/93) #223 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~124K (1/94) #2408 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~144K (10/93) #1484 1994 Laguna Blue Pearl LSi ~68K (10/93) #1525 1994 Barcelona Red LSi ~46K (02/94) #2624 1994 Pearl LSi ~41K (12/93) #1961 1995 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~70K (02/95) #855 1996 Polo Green LSi ~95K (03/96) #872 1997 Bordeaux Pearl LSi ~55K (08/96) #097 2003 Brilliant Red LS1 Convertible ~29K (04/03) #8951 1999 Magnetic Red LS1 Coupe ~33K (04/99) #6420 My Email | Old Locker | New Locker | Picture of 15 of the 19 |
#6
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well, i checked the fluid level...and it was INSANELY high
way over the full limit i proceeded to pump some out instead of going through all the trouble of draining all the fluid by pulling out the plug the level is now at full so i'll see how this all works out for tomorrow morning and the next few days thanks -trevor
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Trevor Avondale, AZ 1992 LS-L Liquid Silver 126k "BXR6" Sold 3/23/13 1992 LS-L Claret 178k totaled 10/26/09 1987 BMW 325is 60% of the time it works, every time |
#7
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You did check the fluid at normal operating temperature, idling in park, right?
It won't show the correct level if it's not running (and on a level surface) Also, the distance between the L dot and the F dot, is one PINT (1/2 quart) not 1 quart like the engine!
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1992 SVX LS-L #1222 Pearl White 1987 GL Turbo wagon, 5 lug conversion, D/R 5 speed (Rice killer) 1992 Dodge Ram 4x4 diesel (car hauler) 1968 Dodge Polara convertible (Camaro killer) 1990 Toyota Corolla FWD auto (330,000 mile grocery getter) 1986 VW Jetta |
#8
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Quote:
Too little ATF will stop the car moving. Crazy is probably nearer the mark on your problem. Most likely culprit is a clogged strainer, and the pickup tube is not getting enough oil back in the box to run the system. This may also explain why it's showing overfull; the oil can't get past the strainer back into the box. You need to drop the sump and clean or replace the strainer. Then refill with clean oil, possibly use synth or semi-synth as you are in a cold place. Pay particular attention when filling, don't overfill. Your problem might also be caused by a sticking valve, BTW, but my guess is you have a clogged strainer. Joe
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#9
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Why don't you try driving in "3" for your normal city driving and let us know if the same symptoms happen.
I do all of my driving under 50 mph in 3, then shift to D when I exceed 50. |
#10
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Quote:
Also, 5 minutes to warm up when its below freezing is not near enough (IMO). I basically let it warm up to normal operating temp. ESPECIALLY when its below freezing.
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Current: 95 svx Ls-L (Black) 91 5sp awd xt6 (red) Had: 91 xt auto awd(lt blue) 85 xt 4wd turbo 5sp(blue/white) 86 xt 2wd turbo 5sp(black) 85 xt 4wd turbo 5sp(silver/white) 89 xt AWD 5sp (white) 85 xt 4wd turbo 5 sp sold to Zukiru (silver) 86 xt turbo 2wd 5sp (silver/black) |
#11
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Quote:
On this basis, as well as what I have always advocated as a way of protecting your transmission, use 3 in lieu of drive and report back on the results.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#12
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Well, I drive in 3 also, but I can't see it making a difference to the scenario described here.
When the car is stopped, whether in D or 3, to start off from rest it will select 1 range, then move up the ratios. So if it's not moving in D, I can't imagine why it would be any different or better for 3 range, it will still be trying to move off in 1. I still think you have clogged strainer. It's not moving because the pickup tube can't get the oil back into the transmission. Joe [But I strongly agree driving in 3 is the way to go]
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Black Betty [Bam a Lam!] '93 UK spec, still languishing Betty Jersey Girl Silver '92 UK [Channel Isles] 40K Jersey Girl @ Mersea Candy Purple Honda Blackbird Plum Dangerous White X2 RVR Mitsubishi 1800GDI. Vantastic 40,000 miles Jersey Girl |
#13
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[hijack]
Quote:
I'll drive in 3 instead of D from now on, I suppose. Didn't know it had ANY effect on the tranny whatsoever, unless I wanted to down-shift from OD or 4th to 3rd, probably on a highway. [/hijack]
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#14
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Quote:
A clogged strainer would surely affect line pressure at all times and thus result in several problems.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
#15
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Quote:
Fourth ratio is actually, and more so in practice an overdrive, particular in US cars with a high final drive ratio. It would have been wise to have labelled the control as 1,2,D, O/D.
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Trevor, New Zealand. As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit! |
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