The Subaru SVX World Network   SVX Network Forums
Live Chat!
SVX or Subaru Links
Old Lockers
Photo Post
How-To Documents
Message Archive
SVX Shop Search
IRC users:

Go Back   The Subaru SVX World Network > SVX Main Forums > Technical Q & A

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #16  
Old 02-17-2019, 11:27 PM
Filip Filip is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Brno, Czech Republic
Posts: 30
Re: 3.7 / 3.54 rear diff

Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor View Post
I would say that the six speed was in the main introduced as a means of meeting a market trend and not be outdone by the opposition. The SVX has a relatively wide torque range and five speeds would be a better choice on several counts and therefore Filip has no need to be concerned in this regard.

If I was spending the sort of money and time involved, I would certainly fit a manual transmission as this would transform the car from a drivers point of view. Filip has indicated that he drives for the fun of it.
5spd vs 6spd - hard question. This is sort of psychological. Only with more information can I make a decision. I am now in the process of gathering information. But, as i see it now, there are 3 scenarios, each interesting for its own reasons. And one will win.

Filip

Last edited by svxcess; 02-18-2019 at 12:24 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 02-20-2019, 06:41 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
Registered User
Subaru Gold Contributor
 
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Coffs Harb, Australia.
Posts: 5,032
Significant Technical Input Registered SVX
Re: 3.7 / 3.54 rear diff

Quote:
Originally Posted by Filip View Post
oab_au : "I really think you would be better to spend the money to have your VTD box and torque converter overhauled by a good Auto trans rebuilder, they will use all the updated parts including the modified high clutch, all new solenoids, seals and lathe cut rings, and the lockup clutch in the converter, to have a box that is the same as the 95 model box that is virtually “bulletproof”

This is interesting information and definitely worth to think about. Let me ask few questions:

1) How much would cost for all parts needed for this overhaul?

2) How many hours should it take for the mechanic to do the whole job? I need to "be in the picture" as I agree with Trevor, that they will try to rob me for money. I already had this feeling from one specialized auto rebuilder shop I was in contact with when my problem started.

3) Regarding 95+ parts, how can I be sure that they would use really these parts and not the older ones? Are 95+ parts the only ones available on the market? Are 95+ part numbers the same as pre-95 ?

I have heard stories of people paying sums around $1500USD, only to find out that weeks later they had nothing fixed and the tranny can be rebuilt again. This I am trying to overcome. But if you saying, you have 180,000km since rebuild, that is definitely vital information. But i need to be vigilant.

Best regards,
Filip
Giday Filip, just to correct the point, my gearbox has not been rebuilt; it has is still the original box, and I see no problems in the future for at least another 100k km.

The cost to rebuild the box here in Australia would be about $3500AU/ $2500USD to have it done by the same people that Subaru uses to do their rebuilds. All the parts would be the updated parts, as the older parts are no longer stocked. The box and torque converter would be “as new”.

It would take a maximum of 3 hours to remove and replace the box. About 4 hours to strip and rebuild the box, and another 2 hours to open the torque converter, and replace the ‘lock-up’ clutch and re-weld it.
I would stress that it should only be done by a competent rebuilder shop that is proficient in working on Jatco transmissions, otherwise it may be a waste of money.

I agree that there has been many stories about boxes replaced in the US, followed by another failure.
The problem was that most of the cars were early 1992 models, and the early boxes had faulty facings on the clutches that had large pieces flake off to block the cooler, resulting in no cooling or lubrication to the epicyclic gears that overheated and failed. A lot of the rebuilt boxes were then fitted with the same converter ‘lock-up’ clutch, so they have the same problems recurring.

The other problems that the US cars experienced were due to the 4EAT box, and the high final drive ratio they were fitted with. The “C” solenoid/transfer valve assembly was slow to react to engaging the rear wheels when the torque was being applied. This could let the front wheels spin in the wet, stressing the front ‘open’ diffrential that would break. The high gearing meant that at low road speeds the engine revved too slowly to maintain sufficient oil pressure, to hold the clutches on, so they slipped to burn up the high clutch or band.

None of these problems were in the VTD box with the lower 3.7:1 as the auto pump ran faster to maintain the line pressure and cooling flow. If the “C” solenoid has a problem, the VTD cannot lose drive to the rear wheels, so the front wheels cannot spin to hurt the front differential.

The early VTD models still had the flaking lining problem, and the early high clutch that had another plate fitted to it, in the later models.

This probably doesn't answer your problems, but this is the best info I can give you.
Cheers, Harvey.
.
__________________
One Arm Bloke.
Tell it like it is!

95 Lsi. Bordeaux Pearl, Aust. RHD.149,000Kls Subaru BBS wheels.
97 Liberty GX Auto sedan. 320,000Kls.
04 Liberty 30R Auto Premium. 92.000kls.

Last edited by svxcess; 02-21-2019 at 09:51 AM.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 02-20-2019, 09:29 PM
Trevor's Avatar
Trevor Trevor is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Auckland, New Zealand
Posts: 5,223
Registered SVX
Re: 3.7 / 3.54 rear diff

The theory that line pressure becomes inadequate at low engine speeds is not correct as I have proven, having driven many miles with a permanently connected and mounted line pressure gauge directly in front of me. As a result of these statements being continually posted as being a fact, there was good reason to take particular notice in this regard.

By the same token the "A" solenoid is not held stationery at partly closed intervals in order control line pressure as has been claimed.
__________________
Trevor, New Zealand.

As a child, on cold mornings I gladly stood in cowpats to warm my bare feet, but I detest bull$hit!
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 02-24-2019, 10:40 AM
Filip Filip is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Brno, Czech Republic
Posts: 30
Re: 3.7 / 3.54 rear diff

Thanks Harvey for great explaining. Definitely good enough for me !
As post number 9 answered my original question, this thread can be locked.
Hope it helps others too.

Regards,
Filip
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:27 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
© 2001-2015 SVX World Network
(208)-906-1122