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  #1  
Old 04-22-2002, 05:55 PM
lee lee is offline
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pulling the transaxle

getting ready to pull my transaxle out (for the first time).

Alldata says to pop out the ball joint (among other things)

Chilton doesn't mention the ball joint but says to pull the pins, then turn the wheels and withdraw the axles

The Chilton way sounds easier. Why do I have to pull the ball joint out if Alldata has it right. I've looked under there and just can't seem to visualize what's what when it starts to come apart.

tia, lee
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  #2  
Old 04-22-2002, 06:01 PM
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immortal_suby immortal_suby is offline
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I did mine a month ago and using beav's advice pulled out the 3 bolts below the ball joint instead of separating the ball joint itself. It worked like a charm.
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  #3  
Old 04-22-2002, 06:24 PM
lee lee is offline
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pulling the ball joint.

I saw Beav's post and have always valued his input.

My question is why Alldata says to pull the joint and Chilton's does not - especially since Chilton's method seems easier on the surface.

Lee
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Old 04-23-2002, 02:18 AM
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There's always a variety of ways to do a job. Add in the fact that most service books are just a copy or a re-hash of the factory manual(s). Some are based on a similar model rather than a specific vehicle (saves the editor time and money.)

Just pulling the pins leaves the axles in the car and they could get in the way. Or you could pull the pins then take the big nuts off from the other end of the axle and remove them, but that's probably more difficult than just removing the three nuts and having a lot more room to work. It's all just a matter of personal preference. Good Luck!
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Old 04-23-2002, 12:32 PM
lee lee is offline
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it's out and now????

Beav, ended up doing it your way - much more room to get the axles out of the way after the three bolts release the ball joint.

Pulled the differential off the tranny. Seems a small section of the case cracked, then flung itself into the teeth between the ring and pinion. Both are chewed up beyond use (and of course the case is toast).

I've only put a thousand miles on this puppy - to bad a private party sale and no warranty - oh well...off to find a diff.
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Old 04-23-2002, 06:02 PM
oab_au oab_au is offline
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Re: it's out and now????

Quote:
Originally posted by lee
Beav, ended up doing it your way - much more room to get the axles out of the way after the three bolts release the ball joint.

Pulled the differential off the tranny. Seems a small section of the case cracked, then flung itself into the teeth between the ring and pinion. Both are chewed up beyond use (and of course the case is toast).

I've only put a thousand miles on this puppy - to bad a private party sale and no warranty - oh well...off to find a diff.
Seeing that you need a front diff, why don't you be the first to lower the final drive ratio by fitting Legacy gears to the front and change the rear ring and pinion for the same Legacy. An change in the overall ratio from 2.5:1 to 3.7:1 would give a 11% in cress in torque to the wheels, reduce the load on the gear box by 11%, in cress engine speed by 11% to have it run up into the torque curve, 11% reduction in acceleration times from 16.8 to 15 sec.
Huck can give you the details on the gear swap.
Give it a go. we are all waiting for somebody to do it.
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Old 04-23-2002, 07:41 PM
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legacy swap

oab_au,

Actually, based on an archive search and posts about use of a Legacy unit, I looked for front & rear legacy diffs and couldn't find a site west of the Mississippi that had both in stock - closest was in Colorado (or maybe I just don't know how to do an effective used parts search - I only tried mypartshop.com and a phone call to a local yard claiming computer searches - they didn't have anything I could physically touch).

I was a bit reluctant to take on two different suppliers (neither of which I knew) and an experiment at the same time. I have some mechanical apptitude, but I'm new to the SVX (only got 1000 miles on mine before this happened), the nearest Suby dealer is over 75 miles away and none to friendly, and it just seemed like too much uncertainty. Sorry.

I found a close-by SVX transaxle complete, so I guess I'm going that route and will have a spare tranny to work up (just in case).
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Old 04-24-2002, 11:03 AM
strange179 strange179 is offline
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Question Hmmmmm

I'm in very much the same boat as Lee is (or was). My front diff is very toasted. I would be interested in doing the legacy swap but I have 2 problems with that.

1. Since the pinion gear is a part of a long shaft that runs through to the rear of the transmission, would a legacy pinion have the same dimentions for the shaft? The other end of the shaft has a gear bolted on it that is driven by the other shaft in the transmission (the main shaft). The other gear drives the clutch pack that powers the rear wheels. ( a lot of info I know) My point is if the pinion gear/shaft isn't just right, there could be problems.

2. I need better instructions on how to align the ring and pinion to each other. I did it myself last time and it seems like that's why it wore out again.

If anyone can help me out with these 2 issues, I'd be happy to try to be the first with Legacy differentials. I would also need to know what year/model of Legacy transmission would supply the correct differentials.

Tahnks,
Jay
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