Ignition switch pics

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by kwren

right back at you! Our SVX's are not new but many of the older exotic cars of other brands aren'r new either. Many other brands have only hundreds or a few thousand of miles on them. The SVX is made to drive and we are going to drive them. People with one two three or more svx's (I have 2) drive them. most of us have 150,000 or more miles on our cars. Most other brands would be in the dump long before that with the miles and "driving habits" we SVX people have. SVX's were ahead of their time when they were built and many of their features are just getting this year.
Things happen, as the bumper sticker says, but we can purchase and maintain our SVX's cheaper that owning many new cars. I beleive a Subaru SVX today is the safest car to drive on the road today, bar none. We travel (fly) to other citys and rent a car. When I have reason to drive a new rental car of any discription, I want my SVX back-always- but moreso in the adverse weather conditions (wind, rain,ice, snow, you name it.
I am 77 years old and do all the needed work on my cars. I do all the testing, mechanical and electrical, with great help from this web site. Doing this has a two-fold advantage. Saves you a lot of money on labor-makes sure you only get needed things done-lets you know that all work is done correctly-and gives you the pride of learning and acomplishment! Oops... That would be a four-fold advantage.
Good luck!
Keith

Greetings Keith, I agree 100%. What is more I do have experience on you at 78.

I purchased mine over seven years ago as a daily driver and one concern was the safety of my wife. The only trouble of any consequence since I have had it, is that which at present is keeping it in its garage, while a top metal top radiator tank is fabricated, for me to put back in place.

At no time has the car not got us safely home. I have experienced many exotic cars, and in no way would I prefer anything to the SVX I am running as our daily driver.

Cheers, Trevor. *<)

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by Trevor

What an encouraging thread to read, after all the "band aid" stuff, so wrongly promoted. In this regard, I do not include the original fix to an intermittent problem, as was submitted by Beav, but later continually so much misconstrued.

Congratulations KuoH.

Incorrect advice concerning the intermittent starting problem experienced by many, has concerned both myself and Beav for a long time. The band aid fix of adding slave relay, so much posted about by a pretender of authority, has unfortunately had a lot of publicity. How did this ever become referred to as a "heat-soak" problem ?

Here we have details regarding the proper fix, which should most certainly be included in the how too stuff. We must make sure that this happens.

[UPnorth362]

I replaced mine about a year ago, and found the same situation of the rear switch cover coming off. My security screw was not loose though, so I cut a small notch in the head of it with a dremmel and cut off wheel, then used a flat head screwdriver. I too replaced the security screw with a regular allen bolt. Good thing to, because im starting to get the problem intermittent again.

[dcarrb]

Originally Posted by Trevor

Yes, as the key switch incorporates a separate set of, loaded-open start contacts. But ---- you advise that moving the gear selector appeared to have corrected the problem, so that the inhibitor circuitry could have been the culprit.

As you have discovered a remedy, don't concern yourself as it could well be a one off incident.

One-off incident would suit me. Of course, having the engine turn-over after moving the gear selector could have been purely coincidental; that was just my first impulse. The selector did appear to be fully in the park position.

I was going to ask about removing those shear-head bolts if they hadn't backed-out on their own. Is there some special tool, or is the "cut-a-slot method" the only way out? As I recall, the only tool needed to pull the ignition switch on my old Mustang was a stout, straightened paper clip. How times have changed.

To you folks who've replaced the starter motor or ignition switch only to have the starting trouble return within a year, I'd sure suspect some other problem.

dcb

[Nomake Wan]

I just want to bring this thread back and say thank you to Kuoh for doing it all. I just today got my ignition switch from the dealer and got some M8-1.25 bolts from the hardware store. After some fussing with the screws holding that last steering wheel cover plate on, I managed to get everything loose and replaced the switch. Sure enough, once put back together the SVX just starts the first time, every time.

This is the definitive fix for the intermittent start problem, guys. Needs a how-to or something!! Just so people don't go digging in all the wrong places.

[dcarrb]

Originally Posted by Nomake Wan

This is the definitive fix for the intermittent start problem, guys. Needs a how-to or something!! Just so people don't go digging in all the wrong places.

Wish it were so. My silver did it to me again today, for the first time in months, tho' I had the ignition switch replaced shortly after originally posting to this thread. That's 3-4 times all told, and it always seems to happen on a hot day (it's blazing today) with the car at full operating temp, after sitting for 10-15 minutes. Did it once right after the switch replacement, but that time I thought maybe I didn't have the gear selector fully into park. No question today. Seems extremely unlikely that the switch could have gone bad so quickly.

Plan B, anyone? Thanks,

dcb

[kwren]

B for Bosch! Same trouble with both my SVX's and designed a relay system with a Bosch relay that has been a real blessing for me. ALWAYS starts like a dream!
Keith

Originally Posted by dcarrb

Wish it were so. My silver did it to me again today, for the first time in months, tho' I had the ignition switch replaced shortly after originally posting to this thread. That's 3-4 times all told, and it always seems to happen on a hot day (it's blazing today) with the car at full operating temp, after sitting for 10-15 minutes. Did it once right after the switch replacement, but that time I thought maybe I didn't have the gear selector fully into park. No question today. Seems extremely unlikely that the switch could have gone bad so quickly.

Plan B, anyone? Thanks,

dcb

[dcarrb]

Well, we definitely have two camps here: To add a relay, or not.

I've not read up on the "heat sink" thing, and I'm not nearly accomplished enough to go jury-rigging the ignition, but wouldn't mind if someone could explain in layman's terms.

And if there's some other fix, y'all, please post it up.

Thanks,
dcb

[Sir. Nate]

Seems I'm having the same problem. the starter clicks over and over before finally cranking. i just had it rebuilt, and i added a 1 gauge ground wire to the starter.

[kwren]

Originally Posted by dcarrb

Well, we definitely have two camps here: To add a relay, or not.

I've not read up on the "heat sink" thing, and I'm not nearly accomplished enough to go jury-rigging the ignition, but wouldn't mind if someone could explain in layman's terms.

And if there's some other fix, y'all, please post it up.

Thanks,
dcb

Keith............

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by kwren

Keith............

Agree with this 100%.

Harvey.

[dcarrb]

Thanks for the relay diagram. Questions:

1) What is the fault that this relay cures?

2) Is this relay something I should be able to buy at an auto parts store?

dcb

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by dcarrb

Thanks for the relay diagram. Questions:

1) What is the fault that this relay cures?

2) Is this relay something I should be able to buy at an auto parts store?

dcb

Without the relay, the Ignition switch, Inhibitor switch, and brake switch have to carry a current flow of about 30 Amps for about 1/2 second every time you hit the starter. This burns the contacts over time.
Fitting the relay removes this high current flow off these switches, so they only have to carry about 0.1 Amps to work the relay.

The recommended relay is the Bosch 30 Amp relay, used for headlights/horn, that is readily available at any Auto store.
Way to go.

Harvey.

[Trevor]

Originally Posted by oab_au

Without the relay, the Ignition switch, Inhibitor switch, and brake switch have to carry a current flow of about 30 Amps for about 1/2 second every time you hit the starter. This burns the contacts over time.
Fitting the relay removes this high current flow off these switches, so they only have to carry about 0.1 Amps to work the relay.

The recommended relay is the Bosch 30 Amp relay, used for headlights/horn, that is readily available at any Auto store.
Way to go.

Harvey.

As far as I am aware no one has examined the contacts involved and confirmed the above. Presuming this idea is fact, it would mean that one or more sets of contacts, have been damaged to the point whereby they are not closing properly and are of high resistance.

Fitting a slave relay which draws the minimum of current will work, but the contacts involved will remain faulty and could deteriorate further, so that they do not conduct at all. In which case the trouble will reoccur and will be final.

That is why both Beav and myself regard this as a band aid fix, rather than the best answer, which is to find the fault and fix it. At that point a slave relay could still be used as belt and braces, if desired.

[kwren]

even though it sure acts like bad contacts!
In my case I replaced the ignition switch with a new one and did not change my inability to get the engine to turn over. The only contacts involved are in the ignition switch. In my case a new ignition switch.

The intermittent starting only occurred when the voltage applied to the starter was registered as between 8 and 9 volts. Continual monitoring the starting operation revealed 12ish volts at times… the times it actually started… and about 8-9 volts… the times it wouldn’t start. This all happened with a constant 12 volts coming to the ignition. 12 volts to the ignition switch but turn to the start position and about 8+ out. This happened with no voltage drop between the power in and the starter out terminals. I have to admit I stayed confused about that. I Still am. I could find out why but my Bosch relay circuit works so GREAT, why would I. If I could get a new SVX, I would probably go right to the parts store and get a Bosch relay and put it on that car to start with!!

Every cloud has a silver lining and my silver lining was the Bosch relay.

I have started my car at least a thousand times since I did this and it never started any better the day it was born. People that don’t think this is kosher should just sit around and click for a while when their car starts doing that. Another option is to sell the car on EBay.

My silver car had that problem when I purchased it and we did drive it home from Colorado with no problem. (Remember, we pray a lot ) A few days later that happened to me and I went right over and got a new starter from NAPA.. Of course, that didn’t help, but it did explain the footprint that was in the driver’s door when we flew to Colorado and picked it up!

My Claret looking one started doing the same thing! What are the odds?

My goal is the help people and if it happens, I am a happy camper.

Take care,
Keith