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Knock Sensor 1
Ok guys I just recently had a complete engine put in by a mechanic, needless to say it took him FOREVER and i feel he did a piss poor job! so I only paid him half the payment for the job. That is why I am not taking this problem to him to solve since it should have been done the minute that the engine swap was done and i realized that the car felt like it was stuttering aka timing dropped due to a bad knock sensor......
well anyways I have recently started becoming a "handy man" if you will under the hood so any advice on my Ebony "snoopy" as i call him, would be muchly appreciated.' The OBD1 box said that my CEL was due to knock sensor 1 and thus I have purchased but for the life of me I don't want to pull the intake up and start taking things apart if there is an easier way to get to this damned sensor...from what I can tell it is directly underneath the top metal piece of the engine...not sure on this car yet if it is part of the intake and if I take it off if I will need to replace a gasket or maybe reuse the gasket and so on Does anyone have a DIY for the knocksensor and any other advice for me hehe? Thanks in advance to all knowledgable responses I really appreciate you guy's help! -Joe
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-Joe http://www.subaru-svx.net/photos/user.php?Osilith mylocker url not sure how everyone has it my locker hehe |
#2
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Can Be
It can be done without removing the intake or any major components--its just a pain and helps to have small hands. I have done it and my daughter has done it. It helps to have two sets of hands just to guide things and help direct tools.
You need to take the covers off the top including the little black cover off the top of the intake and to take the alternator lose so you can have access through the front to guide tools, etc. A socket with extension and wobbly (swivel) inserted from the top of the intake through the black cover space makes it possible to remove the single bolt holding it. The wire connector is at the right rear of the engine (as you face it) and is not particularly easy to reach. After it is disconnected and the single bolt removed it can be taken out. It is hard to feed the wire of the new one back through the small space over the water bypass tube under the manifold and helped me to tie a piece of wire to it to stick back through and then pull it gently. The bolt can be fed back through the top, but guided by a hand through the alternator space to get it started. (My daughter's hands were small enough that she was able to get a wrench on the bolt through the alternator space) This is a bit fuzzy, but is the general procedure that worked for me. PS--IMPORTANT--before messing with the alternator--DISCONNECT THE NEGATIVE BATTERY TERMINAL. Lee
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SVXx2 92 SVX LS-L Silver 92 SVX LS-L Burgundy (structurally challenged with 2792 miles) 96 SVX LSi Red 92 SVX LS Pearl (Parts) 01 F150 4X4 Red (+6 with other members of the family) FREEDOM IS NOT FREE Last edited by lhopp77; 06-09-2008 at 09:00 AM. |
#3
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Lee's method is almost identical to the way mine was replaced. Found someone else with skinny hands.
Gene
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Gene and Ben 1992 SVX LS AWD 110K - Liquid Silver 1994 SVX LSi AWD 128K - White Pearl (daily driver) 1994 SVX LSi AWD 95K - Emerald Pearl (sold) 1992 SVX LS-L AWD 115K - Dark Teal 4.44 swap (sold) |
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