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  #16  
Old 05-25-2007, 07:32 AM
SVXMAN2001 SVXMAN2001 is offline
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I am super meticulous with this car, I have 126k on it. Oil done at least every 3k sometimes 2.5k. That's the frustrating thing, i take such good care of it and there is always something going wrong...
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  #17  
Old 05-25-2007, 07:42 AM
dcarrb dcarrb is offline
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Remember: Any 10-15 year old car having logged over 100,000 miles will require diligent attention to keep it road-worthy and reliable.

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  #18  
Old 05-25-2007, 08:27 AM
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Make sure the water pump, driven by the timing belt is turning.
A locked pump can sit there with the belt slipping past it without making a sound, or smoke.
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  #19  
Old 05-25-2007, 08:48 AM
SVXMAN2001 SVXMAN2001 is offline
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two questions....

1) Tom, Can i view the water pump without taking all the accessory belts off?

2) Mike, is the heater outlet hose the bottom hose connecting the waterpump/thermostat to the radiator? There are only two so i am assuming the bottom is the outlet and the top is in the inlet?
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  #20  
Old 05-25-2007, 10:18 AM
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if it pumps coolant it pumps coolant. The outlet is the bottom hose.

1)thermostat: candy thermoter in pan of water on stove
2)waterpump: see if coolant pumps out the outlet hose
3)fan operation: see if the fans come on when the engine is hot
4)take it to get block tested: they will put pressure to the cooling system and see if it leeks down. If it does they will probably look to see which cyllinder it is leeking into. Alternatively or additionally they will check the coolant for exhaust gasses.




Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXMAN2001
two questions....

1) Tom, Can i view the water pump without taking all the accessory belts off?

2) Mike, is the heater outlet hose the bottom hose connecting the waterpump/thermostat to the radiator? There are only two so i am assuming the bottom is the outlet and the top is in the inlet?
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  #21  
Old 06-08-2007, 03:51 PM
SVXMAN2001 SVXMAN2001 is offline
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Update

ok so i just replaced the thermostat with a known working one, the thermostat in the overheating svx looked brand new compared to the one i was using from the spare svx i have.

Replaced it and no overheating...yet. continuously put fluid in when needed while the car was running, fans would come on periodically i would then add antifreeze and the fans would kick off. Had the car running for about 45 min and did not overheat at all. I had the rpm's up to 3 - 5k a couple of times to make sure the car wouldn't overheat.

One thing i have a question on is, should the fluid continuously go down without the resevior (coolant by the drivers side firewall) constantly filling it up? And if the fluid IS continuously going down what could this be indicative of?

Last edited by SVXMAN2001; 06-08-2007 at 03:53 PM.
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  #22  
Old 06-08-2007, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXMAN2001

One thing i have a question on is, should the fluid continuously go down without the resevior (coolant by the drivers side firewall) constantly filling it up? And if the fluid IS continuously going down what could this be indicative of?
It is necessary to work air out of the system and as there are small passages involved this can take time. When running the engine and filling, up via the top filler, you should have the heater working so that the coolant flows through the element. If you did not do this, it may have been your problem.
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  #23  
Old 06-08-2007, 07:12 PM
SVXMAN2001 SVXMAN2001 is offline
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interesting trevor i was not aware of keeping the heat on while filling the radiator.

Also, i noticed hot air coming from underneath the dash...is this normal? I was wearing sandals and it was almost unbearable!
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  #24  
Old 06-08-2007, 10:25 PM
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If it was that hot, it doesn't sound good.
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  #25  
Old 12-24-2008, 05:19 PM
coco-puff coco-puff is offline
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Re: Overheating

Bump.

My 92 is overheating and didn't seem to fit in the other threads I searched and since this is the biggest thread, I thought I'd bump it.

The problem
Mine overheats and has no heater. Since it is Christmas eve, I can't diagnose it much but white smoke comes out every time I hit the gas (and only when I hit the gas). Also no heat and it was puffing white smoke out of the hood after driving it for 5minutes.

My quick diagnostic
The white smoke from exhaust leads to me think that it's a gasket...but I checked the coolant and engine oil and it's clean. Also no sign of coolant on the exhaust.
The over heating part leads me to think that it's a bad thermostat. The car has over 170k miles so this might be the culprit.

Does anyone else have any other ideas?
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  #26  
Old 12-24-2008, 09:11 PM
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Re: Overheating

When the car gets to operating temperature (1/2 way on the gauge) feel the top and bottom radiator hoses. If the top hose is hot and lower is cold... the thermostat is sticking. If the top is hot and lower is warm... do the following

Crack the cap to release pressure into the overflow. If you get air out of the cap, it is likely that your head gasket has a slight compression leak. This pushes exhaust gases into your coolant and causes spikes in temperature and intermittent heat. If you find coolant overflowing out of the overflow bottle onto the drivers side frame rail, it is also a good indicator that the head gaskets are leaking. You may not find oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, but that doesn't mean its not a problem.

Tom
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  #27  
Old 12-25-2008, 04:02 AM
coco-puff coco-puff is offline
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Re: Overheating

Quote:
Originally Posted by TomsSVX View Post
When the car gets to operating temperature (1/2 way on the gauge) feel the top and bottom radiator hoses. If the top hose is hot and lower is cold... the thermostat is sticking. If the top is hot and lower is warm... do the following

Crack the cap to release pressure into the overflow. If you get air out of the cap, it is likely that your head gasket has a slight compression leak. This pushes exhaust gases into your coolant and causes spikes in temperature and intermittent heat. If you find coolant overflowing out of the overflow bottle onto the drivers side frame rail, it is also a good indicator that the head gaskets are leaking. You may not find oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil, but that doesn't mean its not a problem.

Tom
Tom,

huh, never knew that coolant and oil not mixing does not meant it's not a problem... I'll check the upper and lower hose.

And is there a way to test the water pump by any chance? I'd much rather be 100% sure it's the water pump before I start changing the timing belt...also, is there not a DIY timing belt???

Last edited by coco-puff; 12-25-2008 at 04:05 AM.
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  #28  
Old 12-25-2008, 08:02 AM
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Re: Overheating

No heat would have to be a bad water pump wouldn't it? I don't believe we have a valve that cuts off coolant flow to the heater core.
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  #29  
Old 12-25-2008, 08:34 AM
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Re: Overheating

Quote:
Originally Posted by longassname View Post
No heat would have to be a bad water pump wouldn't it? I don't believe we have a valve that cuts off coolant flow to the heater core.
nope, unless the heater core is full of air.

You need to take the top hose off the radiator. Route something for the coolant to spill into and start the engine... If coolant is running out of the top hose... The pump is working. Shut the car back off.

Tom
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  #30  
Old 12-25-2008, 08:47 AM
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Re: Overheating

huh? Isn't the only thing that could stop coolant from circulating through the heater core the water pump(besides disconnecting it)? I believe the heater lines connect directly to the water pump so even if the thermostat is closed the coolant circulates through the heater core.

Though I guess the mix door on his ac system could be coincidentally broken and not that just disconnecting the outlet hose from the engine and watching for it to pump is a bad idea.
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