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  #1  
Old 05-24-2007, 12:34 PM
SVXMAN2001 SVXMAN2001 is offline
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Overheating

well my overheating issue dates back almost 5 - 6 months. Originally it was found that my overheating was due to a few cracks in my radiator (due to the radiator laying up against two screws)....well I just replaced the radiator this morning with a known good used one. I replaced it, put in fluid (50/50 mix) and the car was running at the correct temp for about 20 min then began overheating all the way up to redline. The fluid was violently bubbling and spewing out of the radiator filler opening, white smoke was pouring out from the radiator filler as well....I am thinking worst case scenario here, but just wanted to see what you all thought...your feedback and comments are appreciated, thanks.
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  #2  
Old 05-24-2007, 12:46 PM
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longassname longassname is offline
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You are right about the worst scenario...
You have two to choose from: bad head gasket or bad trans

I would guess the head gasket but don't guess. These scenarios are too expensive to guess at.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXMAN2001
well my overheating issue dates back almost 5 - 6 months. Originally it was found that my overheating was due to a few cracks in my radiator (due to the radiator laying up against two screws)....well I just replaced the radiator this morning with a known good used one. I replaced it, put in fluid (50/50 mix) and the car was running at the correct temp for about 20 min then began overheating all the way up to redline. The fluid was violently bubbling and spewing out of the radiator filler opening, white smoke was pouring out from the radiator filler as well....I am thinking worst case scenario here, but just wanted to see what you all thought...your feedback and comments are appreciated, thanks.
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Old 05-24-2007, 12:56 PM
SVXMAN2001 SVXMAN2001 is offline
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How does the transmission cause the engine to overheat? I have an external cooler for the transmission lines, i suppose it could be that the cooler isn't working. Can i just take the lines off of the cooler and connect them to the radiator lines on at the bottom of the radiator? Would this be causing the spewing of fluid out of the top? Oh also forgot to mention that some of the sounds i am hearing are a gurgling and hissing from the radiator filler opening...
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Old 05-24-2007, 01:08 PM
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I would make sure the water pump is working ok. If it is not pumping liquid, that would do it as well. I would first check all of your connections on the radiator and make sure they are ok and in the right place. I hope you find that it is not the worse case.
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  #5  
Old 05-24-2007, 01:11 PM
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When a transmission goes bad it makes heat. That heat is dissipated with the transmission cooler, be it in your radiator or strapped in front of your radiator--either way the heat ends up in your radiator.

To avoid that some of us use fender mounted transmission coolers. If you have a fender mounted transmission cooler and you aren't using your radiator transmission cooler at all then you can eliminate your transmission being the problem right away--otherwise you have to consider it.

Chances are it's a head gasket. If you block test it and it says it's a head gasket then it's a head gasket. If you block test it and it doesn't say it's a head gasket it might still be a head gasket. I would probably start by getting it block tested or buying a block test from napa and block testing it myself.


Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXMAN2001
How does the transmission cause the engine to overheat? I have an external cooler for the transmission lines, i suppose it could be that the cooler isn't working. Can i just take the lines off of the cooler and connect them to the radiator lines on at the bottom of the radiator? Would this be causing the spewing of fluid out of the top? Oh also forgot to mention that some of the sounds i am hearing are a gurgling and hissing from the radiator filler opening...
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  #6  
Old 05-24-2007, 01:12 PM
SVXMAN2001 SVXMAN2001 is offline
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Earl, the water pump was done about 30k ago. The connectors on the radiator are working (as far as i know) cause they are on once the car reaches the normal operating temperature. How would i know if the water pump isn't operating normally?
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  #7  
Old 05-24-2007, 02:31 PM
dcarrb dcarrb is offline
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Consider something as simple and inexpensive as a cranky thermostat before jumping to costly conclusions. Absent white smoke out the tailpipes, obvious oil in the coolant or vice-versa, that's the first thing I'd do: Change the thermostat.

Could be your radiator cracked from overheating, rather than the other way around.

dcb
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Old 05-24-2007, 02:55 PM
SVXMAN2001 SVXMAN2001 is offline
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dcb, i'll try changing the thermostat, (is this part readily available at autozone/napa?), this whole overheating issue started with the incompetent a$$es that installed my tranmission, the condensor bolts were digging into my radiator to the point where it eventually caused fluid to leak out and hence fluid not to be able to rise above that level...

Is the thermostat a simple removal? I have another engine with a good thermostat but i had to tear the old gasket out, i still haven't gotten the thermostat out, does it screw in?
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Old 05-24-2007, 02:56 PM
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If you have a candy thermometer or go to the grocery and buy one for a few bucks you can take out your thermostat and put it in a pan of water to heat on the stove. Using the candy thermometer monitor the water temp. Around 176 degrees the thermostat will start showing signs of opening. By 197 it will be fully open.

The water pump can be checked by unplugging the heater outlet hose (or inlet hose it doesn't really matter the coolant will just be coming from the other direction) and seeing if it pumps coolant out with the engine running.

The temp sensor and fan relays can be checked by bring the car up to temp parked. When the coolant temp gets to 206 degrees the fans will turn on. The best thing to do is drive it around to get it hot quick then park it and wait for it to come up to temp for the fans to come on (it doesn't sound like you should have much trouble getting it to temp).

Assuming those simple tests don't find the problem, call around to some shops you trust or might be able to trust and get it block checked. It's inexpensive and these elusive over heating problems turn out to be a head gasket or cracked head 99.999% of the time (at least with an svx you can expet it to be the gasket and not the head).

There is no reason to put up with mysterious overheating for months. You can correctly diagnose it in an afternoon if you do it right instead of hoping for the best and throwing parts at it hoping to stumble onto the problem.
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Old 05-24-2007, 05:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SVXMAN2001
dcb, i'll try changing the thermostat, (is this part readily available at autozone/napa?), this whole overheating issue started with the incompetent a$$es that installed my tranmission, the condensor bolts were digging into my radiator to the point where it eventually caused fluid to leak out and hence fluid not to be able to rise above that level...

Is the thermostat a simple removal? I have another engine with a good thermostat but i had to tear the old gasket out, i still haven't gotten the thermostat out, does it screw in?
I have just had a thermostat fail, which was directly related to previous overheating. Removing and replacing the thermostat is an easy job and you will find that you do not need to disconnect the hose from the housing and can simply move it aside.

I tested my thermostat using the traditional boiling water method, but was unsure of the result. It is not worth messing about on the basis of cost. You should be able to obtain a replacement from any auto parts shop, as it a common type. Mine cost in your money $25.00

Meantime do not panic, as the symptoms you describe put this cheap fix well up the probability list.
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Old 05-24-2007, 05:16 PM
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longassname longassname is offline
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The auto parts stores here don't stock the correct thermostat. They list the standard round thermostat used on american v8 water outlets as compatable and only have the correct oval thermostat with the bubbler available as special order from beck arnley.

It should be pretty clear if the thermostat is good or bad using the water heating with candy thermometer technique.
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Old 05-24-2007, 05:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longassname
The auto parts stores here don't stock the correct thermostat. They list the standard round thermostat used on american v8 water outlets as compatable and only have the correct oval thermostat with the bubbler available as special order from beck arnley.

It should be pretty clear if the thermostat is good or bad using the water heating with candy thermometer technique.
Strange as my JDM OEM thermostat could not be described as oval. The mounting/sealing flange is circular.

The after market replacement I purchased, was of slightly different size and detailed construction, but was otherwise exact in all operative respects including the bubbler.

Previously I have relied on the the same test and know what is involved, but as a result of this last experience, now have my doubts. The valve did open, but I was not sure if it was erratic.
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Old 05-24-2007, 06:08 PM
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They aren't extremely oval but they are oval. The axis with the bubbler is longer than the axis 90 degrees off from it. They did it that was as yet another clue (on top of the notch in the pump casting flange for the bubbler) that the thermostat is orientation specific. That's why when you put it in right it fits so nice and snugg and stays in by itself etc and when you put it in wrong you aught to notice you did it wrong.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Trevor
Strange as my JDM OEM thermostat could not be described as oval. The mounting/sealing flange is circular.

The after market replacement I purchased, was of slightly different size and detailed construction, but was otherwise exact in all operative respects including the bubbler.

Previously I have relied on the the same test and know what is involved, but as a result of this last experience, now have my doubts. The valve did open, but I was not sure if it was erratic.
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Old 05-24-2007, 06:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by longassname
They aren't extremely oval but they are oval. The axis with the bubbler is longer than the axis 90 degrees off from it. They did it that was as yet another clue (on top of the notch in the pump casting flange for the bubbler) that the thermostat is orientation specific. That's why when you put it in right it fits so nice and snugg and stays in by itself etc and when you put it in wrong you aught to notice you did it wrong.
Sorry, now that you have dislodged my memory, I recall that the original and replacement were as you now describe.

Auto parts outfits here must be on the ball and have good stocks.
What is wrong with your lot?
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  #15  
Old 05-24-2007, 10:29 PM
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SSSVX SSSVX is offline
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how many miles on your svx motor now? how do the coolant and the engine oil look?

do you oil change on schedules?

according to your profile, your mileage may be not even 100k.
good luck.
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