New JDM engine

[dynomatt]

No fuel??? Mmm...not good. So you disconnected the lines and cranked? And none sprayed out of the lines?

Can you hear the pump with the ignition on? Ie, turn ignition on (don't crank, coz you then won't hear the pump), and hear a whine for a few seconds? If you can hear it, then the line is blocked or the tank's empty.

If you can't hear it, then consider running 12 volts to the pump connector hard wired (for the purposes of testing only, don't drive like this). If you then can't hear the pump, the pump is stuffed.

It's happened before where seemingly random unrelated failures occur...odd, but not impossible.

Matt

[SVXer95]

Tps?567890

[Phast SVX]

first things first. Pull a plug, and with it out of the car connect it to the coil. Arc it to the body somewhere and have your buddy crank the car, not start it! you will have solved one problem. Let me know if that dosnt work.
phil

[Hohopirates]

I know I have spark Phil, because it will fire with starter fluid. Revs for half a second and dies. Where does the fuel pump connect in the engine bay? Maybe I missed a connector in my reinstall? Again thanks for your help guys, I can't wait to get here back on the road! Steve

[dynomatt]

Not likely. The fuel pump is under the floor at the rear (under the back seat). There's no connector in the engine bay for the pump.

There is a fuse and fusible link...but I'm assuming you've checked all of those.

Did you try my suggestion of seeing if you can hear the pump?

[Hohopirates]

Matt, where is the fuse or fusible link? I find no mention of it in either fuse box, and have checked any fuses in question in either box. Is it in a seperate location or mounted inline? I see mention of a fuel cut off valve on Subaruparts.com, what is it's purpose? Steve

[SVXRide]

The fuel cut off is only intended to function if you flip the car -- i.e., get the car in an orientation other than on all four wheels. Unless you've done this recently, this shouldn't be a problem. My vote is with putting 12v to the pump and see if it runs. By confirming that you've got no fuel coming out of the lines in the engine bay (you did disconnect them on the inlet side of the fuel filter?) and showing that the engine will fire with starter fluid, you've got to take the next step and see why no fuel is making its way out of the tank (there is gas in the tank, right? ). You're doing all the right things!
-Bill

[NeedForSpeed]

The fuel pump fuse is in the kick panel, but not marked fuel pump in the manual. I can't remember which fuse. Our silver project would crank, but no fuel. We found that the fuse was removed from the box. Once installed, we had fuel. I'll ask Jon if he remembers which fuse. But your car was running, so it doesn't seem like you would have a fuse problem.

The new engine shouldn't make a difference, the fuel to the engine is separate. With the key on, fuel should be flowing through the hose. Out of the blue, our Claret would crank and not start. One of the wires in the tank shorted. No fuel.

If you listen at the gas fill tube when the key is turned on, can you hear the pump? I assume that you you don't hear the injectors when the key is on, or you would have fuel.

Sorry again for the inbox full, please send another PM if you would.

Originally Posted by Hohopirates

Matt, where is the fuse or fusible link? I find no mention of it in either fuse box, and have checked any fuses in question in either box. Is it in a seperate location or mounted inline? I see mention of a fuel cut off valve on Subaruparts.com, what is it's purpose? Steve

[Hohopirates]

While doing the swap the battery was disconnected and connected a few times. Is this tough on relays? Also how available is the fuel pump relay? One more question and I am done...for the day... Is there a relay and a fusible link? If there is a link where is it located. I feel like my kids....Are we there yet? How much longer? Again thanks guys.. Steve

[cdigerlando]

First things first. Are you getting fuel flow? If you are, then it sounds like a fuel injector issue. If not read the following:

I recently had some trouble with my fuel pump but managed to change it out with a walbrow and get it going. To the left of the steering wheel column is a fuel pump relay it is a small circular silver relay with a big blue wire feeding to it. There are 4 wires total (I can't remember the other colors). You need to check three things. 1 you are getting signal from the ecu to turn the relay on. 2 you are getting power on one side of the relay. 3 you are getting power to the pump (ie the relay is working). If this all works OK, you can drop the seat and pull the carpet back into the car showing the fuel tank panel. Remove it and check for power by disconnecting the main lead to the pump. Be careful of fumes. Check that power is getting to the fuel pump. If it is, then you have a pump problem. When I get home, if you are still having trouble I can check on more of the particulars like wire colors etc. Do you have a Chilton? I find this very helpful.

If your injectors are a problem you could send them somewere like RC Engineering to get them checked. This shouldn't be a problem though. You can also get a mechanics stethescope and listen to see if they are clicking open.

[cdigerlando]

One other thing. Make sure you have good voltage from the battery. You might want to take it up to Autozone and have it checked.

[Hohopirates]

Is the fuel pump relay a fairly common part, can I find it at NAPA? Steve

[Beav]

HEY! You were on the right track and then fell off into the ditch. Adding starting fluid and getting a 'kick' indicates a fuel problem but then you began throwing rocks instead of doing some basic checks.

Remove the fuel line from the fuel filter that goes to the fuel rail and stick it in a jar or can (watch for splashing) and see if the pump is supplying any fuel at all. If it is then I'd move on to checking for power at the injectors. They have power present whenever the key is on and their grounds are switched by the ecm when it receives a crankshaft signal. If you don't have fuel flowing to the filter then pop up the back seat and check for power at the fuel pump leads as they enter the fuel tank.

The fact that it tries to start with fluid indicates the presence of spark which means the crank sensor, cam sensors and circuitry to the ecm are o.k. If there is power at the injectors you need to check them for pulsing grounds. The ground is switched at approx. 35 ms during cold crank but can be seen with a 12v test light if you watch very closely in a dim area. Instead of placing the test light ground lead on a ground surface place it on the battery positive terminal and probe an injector's ground terminal while someone cranks the engine.

I'm tired of typing for the moment. Do these tests and get back to us if you have further trouble.

[Hohopirates]

Guys would the Cam sensor or crank sensor being bad not let the fuel pump work? Again I am trying to get all the ideas i can as I am going to work on the car tomorrow and it's over a hour away with no net access. Thanks, Steve

[oab_au]

Originally Posted by Hohopirates

Guys would the Cam sensor or crank sensor being bad not let the fuel pump work? Again I am trying to get all the ideas i can as I am going to work on the car tomorrow and it's over a hour away with no net access. Thanks, Steve

Geezzz, Steve you take some convincing. Every man and his dog, knows it is not getting fuel, and have told you so.
Its not the crank sensors, it's not the ignition, it's not the little Japanese men, still in the engine. its the fuggan lack of fuel.

Just do as Beav says.

Don't forget to buy the 12V trouble light.

Harvey.