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  #1  
Old 08-21-2006, 06:02 AM
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Overheating Continues

After my Friday track day, I though I had my overheating problems fixed, but a new gremlin has arisen to give me grief. I noticed it first on Sunday. Went to the car wash, and the temperature, right after starting, with only in town driving, rose right up to the red bar. After a little bit, it dropped down to mid level, stayed there, and then a little while later rose up to the red line. Putting the AC on and off seemed to have some effect, but its not consistent. Sometimes, turning the AC off or on would initiate a change, other times not. All of this is occuring at very low rev's, in-town, modest acceleration. The fans are running.

I read all of the threads about head gasket blow-by, boiling the coolant. Thought that might apply because of my experience at the track. But, this isn't consistent with that. It is too off and on. Normal, then hot, then back to normal again. No in-between and not linked to accelerator use. I'm betting on a balky thermostat. Have ordered one, will change it, but will get the HC coolant test at the same time.

Any thoughts?
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  #2  
Old 08-21-2006, 07:35 AM
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I think that you might have a semi-block in one of the coolant lines. That would account for the pegging of the redline, only to come back to the middle again.
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  #3  
Old 08-22-2006, 07:19 PM
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mine was pretty inconsistent with a bad head gasket. some days I had no problem. some I overheated quickly. the only thing that was consistent is that it got worse over time.
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  #4  
Old 08-22-2006, 07:23 PM
dwd1985 dwd1985 is offline
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I would agree that it sounds like a sticky thermostat. Mine did that when my thermostat was heading out. Replacing it fixed the problem right away.
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  #5  
Old 08-23-2006, 04:49 AM
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Bad thermostat would cause the up and down fluctuation....Head gasket would peg the needle and stay there after car is warmed up.
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  #6  
Old 08-23-2006, 04:58 AM
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Change the termostat first... but he also could be facing a water pump failure or a bad Rad.
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  #7  
Old 08-23-2006, 03:46 PM
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Thanks all. Radiator is only 6 months old. Needle definitely doesn't stay pegged after warm-up. The other day, it was heading up toward the red-line, and I turned on the Climate control and set the t'stat at 80. (to make it go in heating mode as it was about 75 out). Needle immediately dropped down to less than halfway. Often see quick drops down to normal after needle slowly rises us to redline. Still betting on t'stat. New one to be delivered tomorrow.
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94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

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  #8  
Old 08-23-2006, 03:51 PM
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Mine is doing the same thing, let us know what happens...
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  #9  
Old 08-23-2006, 06:43 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by msvx95
Bad thermostat would cause the up and down fluctuation....Head gasket would peg the needle and stay there after car is warmed up.
It might depend on where the head gasket fails.
Mine had no oil/coolant mixing or loss. I was just overheating the coolant from blow by and that was causing boil over into the expansion tank.

But - if I drove it easy it could heat up and cool down. Running the heat on high would usually keep it cool. It wouldn't stay overheated unless I beat on it or the coolant got low. Alot of times I could take long highway trips with no problem and then when I stopped or slowed down for traffic the overheating started.
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  #10  
Old 08-24-2006, 04:40 AM
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My legacy had oil/coolant mixing and overheated right after warmup from the bad head gasket...but I see what you are saying....depends where or how the gasket fails.
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  #11  
Old 08-24-2006, 10:08 PM
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Just a bit of curious input here...would using a thermostat the opened at a slightly cooler temperature possibly prevent some of the problems associated with track driving? I would imagine having it open earlier may help prevent some heat build up

But then again, Im probly wrong. fluid dynamics and engineering seem more your forté than mine
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  #12  
Old 08-24-2006, 10:23 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by immortal_suby
It might depend on where the head gasket fails.
Mine had no oil/coolant mixing or loss. I was just overheating the coolant from blow by and that was causing boil over into the expansion tank.

But - if I drove it easy it could heat up and cool down. Running the heat on high would usually keep it cool. It wouldn't stay overheated unless I beat on it or the coolant got low. Alot of times I could take long highway trips with no problem and then when I stopped or slowed down for traffic the overheating started.
Did you change your thermostat and see if it made any difference? How did you end up knowing it was your headgasket? When you had that problem, is your temp going up on driving up hills and coming down when driving down hills??
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  #13  
Old 08-24-2006, 10:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shotgunslade
Still betting on t'stat. New one to be delivered tomorrow.
Got the T'stat? How was the HC test?
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  #14  
Old 08-25-2006, 02:31 AM
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Been out of the country. Thermostat goes in this weekend. Will get HC test at the same ime. Will keep all posted. Thanks for your help.

The speed at which the temperature drops when it decides to drop ( like seeing visible movement of the needle as it drops rom the red line to just below horizontal, cooling down to normal temperature takes less than a minute) tells me that there is some kind of on-off thing going on. The on-off behaviour doesnt seem to be relating to motor strain, power-on, accelerator, etc. It heats up even when driving slowly with very slow acceleration, then will sudenly cool off.
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94 LS-i Emerald Pearl, 106,xxx,; 246 whp; Tomyx snorkus and HKS Cold air intake; PWR aluminum radiator, silicone hoses; Inline thermostat; enhanced coolant routing; external power steering and oil coolers; Phenolic intake manifold spacers; 2004 WRX 5 speed transmission; ACT Clutch Kit, Heavy Duty Pressure Plate, Lightweight flywheel, performance disc; Group N motor mounts; ‘07 WRX 4-pot front calipers, cryo-treated slotted Tribeca rotors; Hawk HPS ferro-carbon pads; Frozenrotor rear slotted rotors; SS brake lines, Axxis Ultimate pads; Rota Torque 17x8 wheels; 245/40-17 Bridgestone RE01-R's; Koni inserts with Ground Control coilovers, Eibach springs; K-Mac camber/caster adjustable strut mounts; Urethane swaybar bushings; Bontrager rear sway bar; Urethane differential bushing; Custom Whiteline adjustable rear lateral links; Outlaw Engineering forged underdrive pulley; custom grind Web intake and exhaust cams (11 mm lift, 250° duration); solid lifters; CP custom aluminum forged 11 to 1 pistons, Brian Crower coated SS intake & exhaust valves; Brian Crower upgraded springs w/ titanium retainers; NGK sparkplugs; RallyBob (Bob Legere) ported and polished cylinder heads; Eagle H-beam rods; ACL Bearings; Cometic Head gaskets; ARP head studs & fasteners; Hydra Nemesis EMS; Wideband O2 sensor; 740cc Injectors; Walbro 255lph fuel pump; Upgraded WRX starter; Equal length SS headers (3 into 1); dual Magnaflow cat converters; 2 into 1 into 2 SS exhaust with Bullet muffler; OT Fiberglass hood; Oil pressure gauge; Programmable shift light,

2017 Subaru Forester XT, metallic dark gray, 29,xxx

2005 Porsche 911 Turbo S Cabrio, 24,xxx

2006 Subaru Outback LL Bean, 166,xxx sold

92 LSL Dark Teal, Smallcar Shift Kit - sold
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  #15  
Old 08-25-2006, 10:23 AM
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I hope you fix the problem soon...all the hot-cold-hot-cold is bound to warp something!
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